Sin, scandal, and small plates—inside Mumbai's first 'Cocktail Cinema' bar

Food has always had a theatrical element to it. There’s art, intent, and storytelling behind everything plated or poured in front of you. Fielia in Mumbai, the city's first "cocktail cinema" bar, leans well into the idea because every element—be it the food, the drinks, or even the architecture—exists to tell a story.

Step inside Mahalaxmi racecourse, and take a detour into what used to be the racecourse mill. The newly designed space feels transportive without being disconnected from its surroundings. The best part is that, unlike many bars that lean into spectacle, Fielia resists the urge to overwhelm. Instead, it opts for a quieter, more considered kind of luxury. 

Designed by Gauri Khan, the interiors work with the bones of the century-old structure rather than against them. The soaring ceilings, triangular roofline, and raw industrial framework remain visible, softened by dark tones, archways, wrought-iron staircases, and dramatic chandeliers. Pick any seat, because trust me, there are no bad seats here. But I am a little biased to the spot facing the bar because that’s where the real magic happens.

Once seated, you’re able to really take it all in, and the central idea becomes far clearer. The bar is the stage, overlooked by mezzanine balconies that resemble old theatre boxes. The split-level layout adds to the moodiness; it has a sort of rhythm that is intimate and dramatic, but not overly attention-seeking. 

Coming to the main hero, the cocktail programme is built around a clear, creative concept. Led by beverage director Faye Barretto, the current edit, 'Sin & Scandal', draws on narratives inspired by some of history’s most notorious scandals, from political missteps to celebrity chaos. The storytelling is woven in through names, presentation, and small details that drop a few hints. But the real story is far more layered. It’s clever without being confusing, letting guests engage with the idea at their own pace. The cocktail menu also brings back some forgotten favourites from the ‘70s and ‘80s—classics that one would find in a roadside parlour in North America. 

Food follows the same playful logic. Chef Hitesh Shanbhag frames the menu around the seven deadly sins, turning each category into a mood you can taste. The format is aperitivo-style, designed for grazing, sharing, and circling back for seconds rather than committing to anything too formal. 

'Pride' arrives confidently in the form of the Peruvian chicken, balanced and assured, while 'Gluttony' leans unapologetically indulgent with a richly layered pork belly à la braise. Cooked to perfection, the pork was tender and yielding, with a balance of sweet and spice that kept each bite interesting. A sweet-and-tangy apple relish cuts through the richness, adding texture and a welcome brightness that lifts the dish.

'Wrath' appears as a lobster mac that is generous with its seafood, dotted with sizeable chunks of lobster folded through a sauce that is rich and creamy without tipping into heaviness. It’s indulgent but measured, the kind of dish that feels comforting rather than overwhelming.

Dessert, fittingly placed under 'Lust', is a well-considered close to the meal. The pinsa dolce brings together a rich, nutty depth from the house-made hazelnut pâté, balanced by the sharpness of fresh strawberries and the gentle sweetness of marshmallows. Indulgent without being cloying, it feels like a rightfully decadent end to the experience.

Each dish reflects the spirit of its sin, moving between comfort, restraint, heat, and excess without ever tipping into heaviness. Portions stay measured, flavours stay focused, and the experience encourages slow exploration with plates that are best shared, discussed, and revisited as the night unfolds.

What ultimately works about Fielia is its sense of control. Despite the layers of concept and storytelling, the space never feels overworked. It is a place designed for people who appreciate mood, who enjoy watching a room as much as participating in it. Moreover, Fielia allows the architecture, ideas, and pacing to speak for themselves. And in a city that often confuses noise for energy, that restraint feels refreshing.

All images: Katalyst  

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