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Chef Raymond Wong's guide to flavours of Malaysia

Across continents and kitchens, my culinary voice remains anchored in Malaysia’s rich, multi-ethnic heritage.

Harper's Bazaar India

I am the Master Chef at Hakkasan and Yauatcha Pan India. Inspired by my father, I have pursued my career as a chef since the age of 16. Since then, I have worked for over 30 years and gained experience and expertise in seafood and Cantonese cuisine. Throughout my journey, I have won key awards and accolades. I have also been a judge on a cooking show in Thailand – Iron Chef. 

Background and culinary journey

I have learnt my art through a successful career that spans more than 10 countries around the world, including Singapore, Japan, Australia, Mauritius, the Netherlands, Malaysia, Cambodia and now India. I have gained experience in several culinary positions at various hotels and restaurants, including InterContinental Phnom Penh in Cambodia, Pan Pacific Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, Resort World Genting, Radisson Hotel, the Libra & Virgo Cruise of Star Cruise, and many other renowned corporations. Originally from Malaysia, I have over 30 years of experience and specialise in Szechuan, Cantonese, and Malaysian cuisine.

Cooking philosophy

I believe in 'cooking with heart, there are no shortcuts.' The soul of a cuisine lies in everyday experience and one's attention to detail. Over time, one can master the true essence of ingredients and the subtleties of heat control. I have always upheld traditional techniques and flavours and continually experiment with innovation and creation. Whether integrating new inspirations or applying contemporary methods, the core goal remains to present the spirit of the classics in a way that resonates with our guests. Thus, achieving 'innovation without losing the traditions of Chinese cuisine.'

Jalan Alor
Street food stalls and restaurants in Jalan Alor in Kuala Lumpur, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.

Personal connection to my native place

Even after working and living abroad for over 40 years, travelling to different countries and cities, my creative inspiration remains deeply rooted in my grandmother and my hometown. My hometown is a traditional Hakka village. The warmest memory I hold is of children freely wandering through the village, entering any home to share a meal or play together. That intimate sense of community is what inspires my culinary creations.

How Malaysia influences my food and lifestyle

Malaysia is a multi-ethnic nation with diverse ingredients and culinary influences. My culinary style is deeply shaped by this heritage. I believe in taking the essence of our street food and traditional Chinese cooking, then reimagining and presenting it in a refined, contemporary context. This philosophy was at the core of our pioneering the opening of Hakkasan in London in the year 2000. The approach, honouring tradition while innovating its presentation, is not just my professional method; it reflects a lifestyle of bridging cultures and finding new expressions for heritage.

Batu Caves
Malaysian Hindu devotees carry milk pots and kavadis as they climb the steps to Sri Subramaniar Swamy Temple during the Thaipusa

Why Malaysia is worth visiting

Malaysia offers a harmonious melting pot of Malay, Chinese and Indian influences, where hospitality is a way of life. This creates a world-class culinary paradise, where you can enjoy everything from legendary street-side laksa to diverse heritage festivals year-round. It's also home to UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Malacca and Penang. Making it a must-visit destination.

Top cities or regions to visit

Kuala Lumpur to marvel at the iconic Petronas Twin Towers before exploring the rainbow-coloured limestone steps of the Batu Caves. Penang for its world-renowned street food scene set against the backdrop of George Town’s colonial architecture and famous interactive street art. Additionally, Sabah in Borneo is known for its natural beauty, ranging from the peaks of Mount Kinabalu to its dense rainforests.

Any hidden gems or personal favourites

These are the places I keep returning to, often away from the crowds.

Kuala Lumpur (Jalan Alor): I visit Wong Ah Wah, a decades-old institution, to try the grilled chicken wings—smoky, slightly sweet, and perfectly charred.

Sabah (Semporna): I head to Semporna for fresh seafood at the waterfront stalls.

Melaka (Old Town): I make my way to Old Town in Melaka to try the Hainanese chicken rice balls—tender chicken with fragrant rice shaped into delicate balls, a Malacca classic.

Penang (Weld Quay): Stop at Weld Quay, near the Clan Jetties, for authentic char kway teow, wok-fried with prawns, blood cockles, and that unmistakable wok hei.

Ipoh (Old Town): I wrap up in Old Town, Ipoh, with a white coffee at a heritage kopitiam—smooth, aromatic coffee roasted with margarine, best enjoyed with toast and half-boiled eggs.

Perak Tong cave temple
Perak Tong cave temple

Local Favourites:

Bangsar Arts District: I recommend exploring the area for its independent cafés, bookshops, and design boutiques, ideal for a relaxed afternoon.

Lake Gardens: A calm urban escape with still waters and photogenic mosque reflections.

Ipoh temple caves (Kel Lok Tong, Perak Tong): Head to Ipoh to explore temple caves like Kel Lok Tong and Perak Tong, where spirituality and geology come together.

Old-school kopitiams near the Railway Station: Popular spot where locals hang out for traditional tea and easy conversations.

Qing Xin Ling Leisure & Cultural Village: Often explored by bicycle, with nostalgic exhibits, quiet ponds, and open green spaces.

Must-Try Local Dishes

If you’re building your food bucket list, start here:  

Assam Laksa – A tangy, fish-based noodle soup unique to Penang

Hokkien Mee – Thick noodles braised in dark soy sauce, topped with pork and squid

Hainanese Chicken Rice – Deceptively simple and incredibly fragrant

Bak Kut Teh – Herbal pork rib soup, best enjoyed with rice and youtiao

Durian – Try the fruit fresh or in desserts

White Coffee – Ipoh’s famous lightly roasted brew

Wonton Mee – Noodles served with dumplings, char siu, and greens

Chee Cheong Fun – Steamed rice rolls served with sweet sauce and sesame seeds

Yong Tau Foo – Stuffed tofu and vegetables, served dry or in soup

Nasi Lemak – Coconut rice with sambal, anchovies, peanuts, and egg

Curry Fish Head – A rich, spicy-sour curry with tender fish head

A Memorable Dining Experience:

Petaling Street – Ah Weng’s Big Plate Stall:

Located in Kuala Lumpur’s bustling Chinatown, this open-air stall is famous for its “big plate” dishes—including sizzling kam heong clams, butter prawns and garlic kailan. Head there after 9 pm, sit on plastic stools under neon lights and share plates with friends over cold beer.

Whether you seek culinary adventure, cultural immersion, nature therapy, or pure relaxation, Malaysia always delivers.

 

Images: Chef Raymond Wong, Getty Images

Also read: The new generation of restaurateurs is all about on quality over quantity

Also read: Chef Manuel Olveira's guide to flavours of Spain

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