Why fashion can’t quit broderie anglaise

Romantic silhouettes in fashion are what you’d call eternal. From lace and ruffles to pearls and pastels, designers have always sought to express femininity through craft. Broderie anglaise is one such classic that has long occupied a gentle corner of our wardrobes, and is now stepping forward with quiet confidence. Both a type of fabric and a style of embroidery, it features cutwork or eyelets, surrounded by embroidery stitches. It emerged in the 16^th century as a type of needlework and has been a firm favourite ever since.

Characterised by its intricate eyelet embroidery and breathable cotton base, broderie anglaise has historically been associated with ease: holiday dressing and heirloom charm. But in recent seasons, designers have begun to reimagine the fabric by sharpening its silhouettes, playing with proportion, and positioning it firmly within contemporary wardrobes.

A brief history and its current appeal 

The technique of broderie anglaise traces its emergence as a decorative embroidery method, designed to imitate lace while remaining lightweight and practical. Traditionally crafted on cotton, its defining feature, the cutwork eyelet, allowed for breathability while maintaining visual intricacy. For decades, the fabric symbolised innocence and femininity. Its delicate nature gave it a distinctly romantic identity, one that persisted well into the 20th century.

Today, the pace of fashion is slowing down. In many ways, there’s a return to nostalgia: for emphasis on longevity, craftsmanship, and pieces that move seamlessly across seasons. It stands to reason that designers are revisiting the fabric not just as a nostalgic gesture, but as a study in texture and craftsmanship. Its lightweight nature makes it ideal for warm climates, while its textural depth ensures it never feels flat. Designers are also responding to a renewed desire for softness in fashion. After years of sharp tailoring and hyper-structured silhouettes, there’s a collective move toward ease. Broderie anglaise, with its inherent delicacy, offers that softness, balanced by modern cuts and intentional styling.

Ease meets elegance 

In dress form, broderie anglaise feels particularly transformative. Where once it appeared exclusively in floaty, flared silhouettes, today’s designs explore structure and proportion. Colour also plays a role. While classic white remains a favourite, newer iterations embrace ivory, butter yellow, soft pastels, and even inky blacks. Styled with jewellery, leather sandals, or sharp flats, the modern broderie dress feels equally appropriate for day events, travel, or elevated everyday dressing.

Midi dresses with clean lines, A-line shapes with subtle volume, and shirt dresses rendered in embroidered cotton bring a new sense of polish to the fabric. Designers are experimenting with placement—allowing embroidery to frame the neckline, hem, or sleeves rather than dominate the entire piece. 

In tops, designers often play with scale, using oversized eyelets or geometric embroidery to create a more graphic effect. Layering also adds dimension. Worn under blazers or paired with sleek outerwear, broderie tops soften sharper looks without diluting their impact. This balance–romantic yet grounded–is what makes them wardrobe staples rather than seasonal novelties.

The fabric’s tactile quality invites touch, while its craftsmanship tells a story of time and skill. In a fashion landscape saturated with synthetics and fast trends, this return to natural fibres and traditional techniques feels intentional. While broderie anglaise is often associated with warm weather, contemporary styling has made it seasonally fluid. Layered under knits, worn with boots, or styled with structured outerwear, it transitions seamlessly into cooler months. This adaptability reinforces its place as a wardrobe investment rather than a fleeting trend. 

Whether worn as a dress, a top, or a skirt, it brings texture without excess. Once synonymous with simplicity thanks to its lacy, openwork look, broderie anglaise is re-emerging as a refined fashion statement, through modern silhouettes, elevated styling, and a renewed appreciation for timeless craft. 

Lead image: Getty

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