What are secretomes? The new frontier in regenerative skincare

There was a time when skincare conversations revolved around topical moisturisers, scrubs, and serums. Now? We’re casually discussing exosomes over coffee and wondering whether salmon DNA belongs in our routines. Skincare has steadily moved towards an inside-out approach through biotech-powered regenerative treatments that aren’t just about aesthetics but also about long-term skin health. And if exosomes introduced us to the idea of cellular communication, secretomes take that a few steps further.

Rather than being a single ingredient, secretomes are a collection of bioactive molecules naturally released by cells. This cocktail includes growth factors, cytokines, peptides, and extracellular vesicles, including exosomes, that work together to regulate cellular communication and tissue regeneration. “I like to think of secretomes as instructions rather than ingredients,” explains Dr Simal Soin, Founder and Chief Dermatologist at Aayna Clinics. “They’re not replacing skin cells or magically reversing ageing. Instead, they create an environment that allows the skin to function more efficiently.”

Simplifying the science, Dr Nishita Ranka, dermatologist and Founder of Dr Nishita’s Clinic For Skin, Hair & Aesthetics, describes secretomes as the skin’s communication network. “If exosomes are individual messages being delivered between cells, secretome is the entire communication system that helps the skin organise repair and renewal.”

This distinction reflects a broader shift happening across skincare. For years, the focus was on correcting visible concerns such as pigmentation, wrinkles, or texture. In contrast, regenerative skincare asks a different question altogether—how do we support skin function to begin with? That’s also why secretomes have become the latest talking point in regenerative dermatology, with researchers exploring whether they can enhance the skin’s innate ability to recover after damage or aesthetic procedures.

Secretomes and exosomes are often spoken about interchangeably; however, exosomes are only a part of the larger picture. “Secretome is a broader concept,” explains Dr Soin. “It includes exosomes, but also a wide range of other bioactive molecules that regulate healing, repair, and regeneration.”

Think of exosomes as a single conversation between cells, while secretome is the full language that enables cells to communicate effectively. According to Dr Ranka, this broader view is precisely why secretomes are attracting attention, as they better reflect the complexity of how skin maintains and renews itself.

WHERE THEY SHOW PROMISE 

Unlike traditional skincare ingredients that typically target one concern at a time, secretomes are being studied for their ability to influence multiple biological pathways simultaneously. Early laboratory and clinical studies suggest they may stimulate collagen and elastin production, strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, improve wound healing, and speed recovery after aesthetic procedures.

“The biggest advantage of secretomes is that they work by supporting the skin’s own biological processes rather than targeting a single concern,” explains Dr Bindu Sthalekar, celebrity dermatologist, cosmetologist, trichologist, and Founder and Medical Director of Skin Smart Solutions. “They may improve firmness by stimulating collagen production, calm inflammation, and potentially shorten recovery time following aesthetic procedures. Improved cellular communication can also contribute to healthier, more resilient skin overall.”

According to Dr Ranka, the most promising applications currently include recovery after procedures such as microneedling and fractional lasers, improving early signs of ageing, supporting compromised skin barriers, and enhancing collagen remodelling in acne scars. She stresses, however, that secretomes should be viewed as an addition to established treatments rather than a replacement. “The most effective approach will always combine new technology with strong scientific evidence.”

BEYOND THE HYPE 

Despite the excitement, secretomes are not suitable for everyone. Experts advise caution in people with active skin infections, uncontrolled inflammatory skin conditions, certain autoimmune disorders, or during pregnancy and breastfeeding, as long-term safety data remains limited. “Anyone with active skin conditions, medical concerns or unrealistic expectations should always seek professional advice before considering regenerative treatments,” says Dr Ranka. She also points out that not all secretome products are created equal, making medically validated formulations and experienced practitioners essential.

As with many regenerative procedures, the strongest evidence currently comes from treatments performed in clinics. While secretome-based serums and creams are beginning to enter the skincare market, dermatologists say topical formulations still face scientific hurdles. “These molecules are biologically fragile and require the right storage, formulation, and delivery systems to remain active,” explains Dr Soin. “They also tend to perform best when combined with procedures such as microneedling or lasers, which create temporary microchannels that improve delivery into the skin.” Dr Sthalekar believes home-care formulations remain an exciting area of research but says maintaining the stability and activity of these biological molecules in a cream or serum is scientifically challenging.

FUTURE OF REGENERATIVE SKINCARE 

“If exosomes opened the door to regenerative care, secretomes may represent its next evolution,” predicts Dr Soin. “Science is moving quickly, but we still have a great deal to learn.”

One of the biggest challenges remains standardisation. Secretome products can vary considerably depending on their cell source, manufacturing process, and purification methods, making it difficult to compare findings across studies or establish universal treatment protocols.

For now, experts agree that regenerative dermatology is moving towards supporting healthier skin function rather than simply correcting visible concerns. “It’s not about turning back the clock,” says Dr Ranka. “It’s about helping the skin communicate better, recover more effectively and maintain its natural strength over time.” While the science behind secretomes is promising, dermatologists believe they are best viewed as an emerging adjunct to evidence-based skincare rather than a replacement for proven treatments.

Images: Courtesy Getty Images

This article originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar India's August - September 2026 print issue.

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