Inside the collections that shaped Paris Fashion Week SS27

Paris Fashion Week is where the fashion calendar reaches its grand finale, bringing together the industry’s most influential houses, designers, and new creative directions for a week of collections that set the tone for the season ahead. Running from September 28 to October 6, the Spring/Summer 2027 schedule brought together 68 runway shows, with a number of returning names joining fashion’s biggest houses on the Paris calendar.

This season arrived with plenty to anticipate. From Jonathan Anderson’s evolving vision for Dior to Matthieu Blazy’s continuing work at Chanel, the week offered a closer look at how some of fashion’s most storied houses are reshaping their identities for a new era. Alongside them, Tom Ford, The Row, Balenciaga, Loewe, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton were among the blockbuster names that commanded attention.

Here are the shows we had firmly marked on our Paris Fashion Week calendar.

Dior 

Paris Fashion Week opened with one of its biggest names. Jonathan Anderson’s Dior was among the most anticipated shows of the season, as the designer continued to develop his interpretation of the house codes across womenswear. His latest collection brought a lighter, more fluid sensibility to Dior, revisiting archival signatures through sheer fabrics, delicate petals and softly structured silhouettes. The result offered another glimpse of how Anderson is shaping the house's next chapter.

The Row

Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s The Row has become synonymous with discreet luxury, impeccable tailoring, and an almost obsessive attention to fabrication. Its Paris presentation was one of the week’s quieter but closely followed moments, particularly as the house continues to influence the conversation around modern minimalism.

Tom Ford

Tom Ford returned to the Paris schedule on September 30. Under creative director Haider Ackermann, Tom Ford's SS27 collection brought the brand's signature sense of polished sensuality to the Paris runway. The collection played with the tension between sharp tailoring and unapologetic glamour, balancing sleek, sculpted silhouettes with fluid evening looks.

Chloé

Chloé took to the runway on October 1. The house’s distinctly feminine vocabulary made it one of the most anticipated shows on the schedule, with the Paris runway offering another opportunity to see how its romantic codes were being interpreted for the modern wardrobe, while the collection's softer approach to luxury placed wearability alongside craftsmanship.

Balenciaga

Balenciaga returned to the runway on October 1, bringing its distinctive architectural silhouettes and evolving approach to the season’s conversation. With the house continuing to explore the tension between the everyday and the extraordinary, its Paris show offered another look at Pierpaolo Piccioli’s developing vision for the house. Balenciaga remains one of Paris's most closely watched houses for its ability to challenge conventional ideas of luxury.

Schiaparelli

Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy continues to make the house one of Paris’s most theatrical fashion propositions. Its October 1 show was one of the week’s essential stops for anyone interested in couture-inspired craftsmanship, sculptural silhouettes and fashion as spectacle. For Spring/Summer 2027, Daniel Roseberry translated the house’s couture codes into a more wearable wardrobe, bringing sculptural details, intricate embroidery and exaggerated proportions into ready-to-wear. The result kept Schiaparelli’s sense of drama intact while giving its surrealist vocabulary a more everyday context.

Loewe

Loewe took the runway on October 2. As one of the houses most closely associated with craftsmanship and experimentation, its Paris show was another significant moment on the SS27 calendar.

The Spring/Summer 2027 collection offered another opportunity for the house to celebrate its approach to leather and artisanal techniques, while Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez continued to develop their new Loewe language through American sportswear, Spanish heritage, and unexpected proportions.

Issey Miyake

Issey Miyake brought its distinctive approach to movement, construction and textile innovation to Paris on October 2. The house occupies a particularly interesting space within the schedule, offering a perspective on fashion that goes beyond conventional silhouettes and seasonal trends. For Spring/Summer 2027, Satoshi Kondo explored ma, the Japanese concept of the space between, through billowing fabrics, sculptural forms and signature pleats that shifted with the body. It offered an alternative perspective on what modern dressing can look like.

Givenchy

Givenchy followed on October 2, with the house continuing to develop its contemporary vision under Sarah Burton. Her approach brings a refined understanding of tailoring and femininity to the brand, while remaining connected to Givenchy’s heritage of elegance. The Spring/Summer 2027 collection brought this into focus through precise tailoring, versatile pieces, and a wardrobe designed to move between different aspects of modern life.

Victoria Beckham

Victoria Beckham’s Paris show on October 2 was another one to watch. Known for polished tailoring, elongated silhouettes and a restrained approach to luxury, the designer has established a clear visual language that feels distinctly modern. For Spring/Summer 2027, her Paris runway continued that conversation, balancing the designer’s polished aesthetic with the ease and sensuality that have increasingly become central to her collections.

Hermès

Hermès took to the runway on October 3, bringing its celebrated expertise in leather, craftsmanship and understated luxury to the season. Few houses are as closely associated with the idea of timeless luxury, making its Paris show an essential fixture on the calendar.

The house’s distinctive approach to leather, colour and understated sophistication took centre stage.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab’s October 3 show delivered the kind of high-glamour fashion the house has become known for. Expect intricate embellishment, dramatic eveningwear and the designer’s signature approach to occasion dressing. Its Spring/Summer 2027 collection delivered the kind of romance and drama that has become synonymous with the label.

Comme des Garçons

Comme des Garçons brought its uncompromising approach to design to Paris on October 3. Rei Kawakubo’s house has long challenged conventional ideas of beauty, proportion and construction, making every collection a moment worth paying attention to.

The Spring/Summer 2027 show promised to be less about following trends and more about questioning them.

Lacoste

Lacoste brought its sportswear heritage to the Paris runway on October 4. The house sits at an interesting intersection of performance, French style and contemporary fashion, making its SS27 collection one to watch as the conversation around elevated sportswear continues.

For Spring/Summer 2027, its signature athletic codes were reworked through modern silhouettes and a more elevated approach to everyday dressing.

Miu Miu

Its Spring/Summer 2027 collection was one of the season’s most anticipated, with the house continuing its playful exploration of femininity, nostalgia and modern dressing.

Miu Miu closed out October 4 with one of the most consistently talked-about shows on the fashion calendar. The brand’s ability to turn everyday wardrobe staples into cultural moments has made it one of fashion’s most influential houses, and its SS27 collection was no different.

Valentino

Valentino returned to Paris on October 4 following its Rome presentation for Fall/Winter 2026. Valentino brought Alessandro Michele’s distinctive romanticism back to the Paris conversation. Known for his maximalist approach to colour, print, historical references and eclectic styling, Michele has given the house a fresh vocabulary while retaining its connection to the art of Italian fashion. The Spring/Summer 2027 collection promised another chapter in that evolving story.

Mugler

Mugler has long been synonymous with a powerful, body-conscious vision of fashion. For Spring/Summer 2027, the house remains one to watch for its ability to turn the human form into the starting point for fashion.

Mugler took the runway on October 4, bringing its legacy of body-conscious silhouettes, sharp tailoring and unapologetic glamour to the Paris schedule. Its approach offers a welcome dose of drama amid the season’s broader movement towards ease and wearability.

Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst presented on October 5, continuing her focus on refined craftsmanship and considered luxury. Her Spring/Summer 2027 collection continued this refined approach, bringing together sophisticated tailoring, elevated materials and a sense of restraint that feels increasingly relevant to the modern luxury wardrobe.

Chanel

Chanel is one of the defining moments of any Paris Fashion Week, and this season was no exception. Chanel arrived on October 5 with Matthieu Blazy continuing his creative direction of the house. His interpretation of Chanel’s heritage has already generated considerable attention, making the show one of the biggest moments of the entire week.

Louis Vuitton

And finally, Louis Vuitton closed Paris Fashion Week on October 6. Nicolas Ghesquière’s SS27 collection brought the week to a close, making it the final major runway moment of the Paris calendar.

Nicolas Ghesquière’s long-standing vision for the house has centred on innovation, futuristic silhouettes and an instinctive ability to merge historical references with the modern wardrobe. As the final major runway of the week, the Spring/Summer 2027 collection left the season with a suitably grand finale.

As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, the season’s collections offered more than a glimpse at what we will be wearing next. From the quiet craftsmanship of Hermès and The Row to the theatricality of Schiaparelli, the sensuality of Tom Ford and the evolving identities of Dior and Chanel, the Spring/Summer 2027 schedule brought together vastly different interpretations of modern luxury. And with Louis Vuitton closing the week, Paris once again had the final word on where fashion goes next.

Lead image: Getty Images 

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