The House of Schiaparelli has always had a flair for presenting the fun side of flamboyance. Their Spring/Summer 2026 read-to-wear collection was unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, and a true standout was not just the fabric or silhouettes, but an almost ethereal glow that illuminated the night. This season, Daniel Roseberry, whose work celebrates whimsy, introduced salt-stone jewellery that lit up.
What was once the mainstay of ambient home décor took centre stage by adorning the necks and ears of models. By embedding Himalayan-sourced salt into jewellery forms that flicker and gleam, the idea of ornaments took on its purest form by casting a subtle luminescence on the skin.
Mineral to marvel
Salt as a crystal has long been used to purify and illuminate, and these glowing pieces felt almost otherworldly. The basic concept seems to be similar to Himalayan salt lamps: a slab of salt (in this case, Himalayan salt) is taken, a small channel is carved, and a light source (often a tiny LED) is embedded inside. The salt’s natural translucence diffuses and softens the light. As Himalayan salt typically has trace minerals and variations, it glows warmly, often in soft, warm, coral, and yellow tones.
At the show, the stunning range of jewellery was paired with sculpted silhouettes, some even inspired by surrealist painters such as Salvador Dali. From multiple layers of stacked stones as a necklace to glowing, irregular orbs as earrings, it’s little wonder that the runway itself seemed like a canvas. Widened sleeves, strong collars and asymmetrical ruffles created a contrast between a soft glow and a bold form, displaying an interplay of light and shadow.
Salt has long had spiritual associations: preservative, purifying, essential. In this dialogue with fashion, Schiaparelli also imbued it with mystique. In translating salt into luxury jewellery, Roseberry is also playing with contrasts: humble mineral and haute couture; the elemental and the engineered. Schiaparelli’s salt jewellery is less about creating a trend and more about driving home a reminder that fashion still has room for alchemy.
Lead image: Schiaparelli
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