Tracing the evolution and influence of New York Fashion Week with founder, Fern Mallis

With her keen eye for talent and unparalleled dedication, Fern Mallis, the visionary behind New York Fashion Week, transformed a modest industry event into a global phenomenon that sets the trends for the entire fashion world. In an exclusive interview with Bazaar India, we delve into Mallis' journey, her inspirations, what it means for Indian fashion designers to be a part of New York Fashion Week, and more. 

 

Harper's Bazaar: In 1993, you initiated the launch of Seventh On Sixth, later to be known as New York Fashion Week, a centralised platform where fashion designers could display their clothes. Thirty years since then how do you think the fashion industry has evolved?

Fern Mallis: “Well, people are still wearing stylish clothes and attending fashion weeks in large numbers. It is still an important business. When we started New York Fashion Week, it was done in a much more centralised way with everything happening at a single venue at Bryant Park. In 2010, the venue was shifted to Lincoln Centre and these days shows are scattered across the city and people are a bit frustrated having to run from one place to the other.” 

HB: How different are fashion weeks today?

FM: “I would say things are very different from what they used to be. New York Fashion Week is run differently from the way I used to as they don’t have a centralised venue. People are different, social media is different, you don’t really see too many identifiable retailers and editors of magazines and newspapers anymore. Instead, you see plenty of influencers and TikTokers whom people don’t even recognise as part of the audience. Fashion has changed a lot. It’s not even a big deal to get into a big department store anymore. There is a lot of B2C happening through Instagram and e-commerce sites. People thought there will be significant changes during the pandemic and we had discussions that time about producing less, and producing in time for the season. Unfortunately, people talked about it but it didn’t really change anything.”

HB: What’s the inspiration behind the launch of your book Fashion Lives: Fashion Icons With Fern Mallis?

FM: “I have been doing talk shows with well-known personalities for 92NY, a New York-based art, culture, entertainment and conversation centre, for over 12 years. Over the years I have interviewed more than 65 personalities such as Norma Kamali, Tom Ford, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Martha Stewart, Gabriella Hearst, Valentino, Ralph Lauren, to mention a few, before packed audiences. There are always many people who miss these talks owing to various reasons but are very keen to know about these personalities. So, I talked to Rizzoli, one of the leading publishers in the world, and came up with these coffee table books which feature the essence of my talks with these personalities.”

HB: There are some personalities in the book who are not directly linked to fashion as well?

FM: “Well, fashion covers a lot of territory. You don’t have to have a collection to be in the fashion industry. Martha Stewart is not a fashion personality, but she accomplished so much in her life that the interview was a big success. Leonard Lauder, heir to the Estée Lauder group, is into the beauty business. I have interviewed editors, businessmen, photographers, etc. ‘Fashion’ is in every field of work and our lives.” 

HB: What are some of the most fascinating experiences that you’ve had in this series?

FM: “Every personality who I have ever interviewed has revealed an untold story and that in itself is fascinating. The interview with Gabriella Hearst, who comes from an extraordinary seventh generation family of ranchers from Uruguay, was remarkable. And then my talk with former supermodel Linda Evangelista who spoke about being diagnosed with cancer thrice. In fact, 92NY posted a short clip of her interview on social media where she spoke about asking the doctors to make a hole in her chest and that the scar will be her badge of courage and a reminder that she had survived. The clip had over half a million likes, more than anything they’ve seen!”

HB: Are all your celebrity guests at ease when you interview them, especially when you delve deep into their lives?

FM: “They all seem comfortable talking to me. I am very proud of this series. These people have all reached here because of their talent and hardwork. They are not born with silver spoons in their mouths nor have they inherited from their parents. They created their own destinies and they are happy to share their life experiences with me. From my side, I am careful not to cross the line when it comes to asking questions.”

HB: You’ve had a long association with Indian fashion right from the first Indian fashion week. How do you think they are doing internationally?

FM: “Indian fashion is finally getting the recognition it deserves globally. Sabyasachi opened a store in New York, which in itself is a destination and a lot of people are still talking about it. Gaurav Gupta is in the news for his red carpets and celebrities while Falguni & Shane recently showed again at the New York Fashion Week. Anita Dongre has been in New York for a while and I believe her store is doing well here. I am sure there are many more who have the creative capabilities to make it successful abroad.” 

HB: How important is New York Fashion Week especially for Indian fashion designers?

FM: “The New York Fashion Week opens doors to a big retail market for fashion designers. It really depends on your collection.”

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