Echoes from home: How seven women are weaving new futures through fashion

What does it mean to create from a place of memory? For these seven women-led brands, fashion is less about seasons and more about stories—of heritage, community, and quiet rebellion. Each label in this edit is a chapter in the evolving narrative of Indian design.

VINTAGE VISION BOARD

Cord by Neha Singh and Pranav Guglani

We didn’t just strike a chord with Cord today; rather, it’s been a while since the brand has quietly dominated our closets. Co-founded by Neha Singh and Pranav Guglani in 2015, a decade later Cord still lives in the vintage era, but caters to wearers with contemporary taste. Nostalgia being the muse, it is only natural for the label to find itself looking back in the aughts. “Cord often finds itself drawn to the mid-20th century, particularly the elegance and detailing of the 1940s through the 1960s. Art Deco furniture, old travel souvenirs, hand-embroidered details, and hand smocking—these are threads I keep pulling on because they carry warmth, nostalgia, and a timeless grace,” shares Singh. 

The picturesque prints at Cord seem straight out of a scene, making it a versatile choice for “someone who moves through life: day and night, travel, quiet routines, festive moments, without having to switch wardrobes completely.” Beyond the printed canvas and the maximalist mood board, the label puts emphasis on craftsmanship. “Hand smocking, block printing and screen printing, quilting, patchwork, hand embroidery, natural fabrics like cotton, linen and leather goods,” are some of the standout techniques and textiles the brand experiments with, reveals Singh.

INDO-BALINESE BREW

ituvana by Lylah Shaw

A closet that longs for meaning and calls for comfort is the one ituvana finds its true home in. Founded by Lylah Shaw, the brand follows a notion dunked in simplicity, and inspiration that travels between India and Bali. The two countries have been at the “heart of ituvana”, as Shaw says. “In Bali, women attend daily ceremonies wearing long (breezy) sarong skirts made from traditional fabrics. ituvana’s designs reflect the laid-back lifestyle of both cultures,” she adds. 

Shaw’s brief stint at Donna Karan’s luxury lifestyle brand, her passion for film and fashion, and a strong intuition are the building blocks for ituvana. “It’s all so intuitive for me—I don’t follow a set formula. I always knew I wanted to create more than just a brand; I wanted to build a space for self-expression, creativity, and change,” asserts Shaw. Picture a stroll down nostalgic Indian streets, dressed in a Balinese spirit— hooded drapes, organic linens, appliqué work, kantha embroidery, and re-wearable statement pieces, which come with a promise of comfort that lingers long after it is worn. Together, it embodies the very ethos of the brand.

THE HOMECOMING 

Kilchu by Akanksha Rathore 

My introduction to the world of Kilchu came through the Tabi Jutti, the Indian homage to Maison Margiela’s iconic Tabi shoes. That single glimpse was enough to pique my interest in the homegrown brand. Founder Akanksha Rathore brings a piece of her home into the brand—“Kilchu is the name of my native village in Bikaner, Rajasthan. Naming the label Kilchu felt like grounding the brand in honesty and memory while also opening up the possibility that a small, culture-rich place can carry its voice to the world,” shares Rathore. Exploration remains the driving force at the brand. The fabrics, the details, and the design language read like postcards from the bygone era. 

Kilchu’s canvas paints a picture of inclusive silhouettes that lean toward sustainability, everyday prints, accessories that spark conversations, and collections capable of finding their way across the globe. Rathore positions our rich craft as the true protagonist of the Indian fashion tale. “I believe craft-led businesses in India are the future and are one of our strongest global propositions. Every time a Kilchu piece finds its way across the globe, the idea that even the quietest origins can resonate on a global stage is powerful and surreal,” she reflects.

CULTURAL BLEND 

Malie by Amalie Othilia and Karandeep Singh Chadha 

A pandemic brainchild of the husband-wife duo Amalie Othilia and Karandeep Singh Chadha, Malie—founded in 2021—is a label on its way to carving a niche amidst the slew of homegrown brands. While most labels find their cultural niches, Malie brings in diversity. “Our silhouettes are deeply influenced by Scandinavian design (due to my nationality and upbringing)—rooted in simplicity, femininity, and comfort,” says Othilia. “On the other hand, our colour palette and fabric choices reflect the vibrancy of India. In that sense, Malie becomes a dialogue between the two worlds: Scandinavian functionality and Indian artistry.” 

A lush colour palette, handwoven fabrics, artisanal techniques, clean lines, sleek tailoring, and foray into jewellery—Malie qualifies as the label that rewrites the codes for everyday luxury. With a design language that’s equal parts “feminine, expressive, and wearable”, Malie’s approach is rooted in ready-to-wear, but with couture-level design sensibilities. “In terms of techniques, every garment is done by hand. What we love most is elevating simplicity with craftsmanship, ensuring that every piece feels luxurious and stays relevant for years to come,” asserts Othilia.

AT THEIR OWN PACE 

ACQUIRE by Angélique Raina 

“We haven’t and will not ever go on sale,” a statement I never thought would spark my curiosity for a brand, but it did! ACQUIRE, by Angélique Raina, takes you from a day into a night out, all through a simple design philosophy that pairs structure with softness. “Design seems to be moving in two seemingly opposite directions. You have hyper hyper-utilitarian ‘globalised’ design [alongside] the cultural ‘regional’ design. We believe that to thrive, we need to speak fluently in both dialects,” she makes a point. 

A brief glimpse into the brand’s collection hints at how textiles are more than just a canvas for ACQUIRE. “Our texturing isn’t just embellishment, it’s structural. We have largely focused our manipulation of fabric through smocking, ruching, and retexturing. In smocking alone, we have already developed three different ways—all unique to us,” shares Raina. In a world brimming with new design philosophies every day, ACQUIRE takes it one day at a time. As she puts it: “In a world that’s also fast, we slow down, but not for the sake of it. We slow down to go deeper.”

REINVENT & RECYCLE 

GRAINE by Harshna Kandhari and Mannat Sethi 

If reinvention were stitched into a fabric, the label’s name would be GRAINE. Harshna Kandhari and Mannat Sethi, the sister duo behind the consciously eclectic brand, reflect on our heritage but in correlation with the present-day aesthetic. “Relevant in its singularity, yet abundant in its multiplication, and rooted in tradition, yet always evolving into new expressions,” Kandhari describes the label. The dress code at GRAINE reads Indian chic, but with a state-of-the-art polish. The sisters look up to the woman who is up for challenging the status quo. “Our muse is the one who moves easily between reverence and rebellion. She is someone who instinctively blends contrasts: she might wear gota, but in her pleated skirt; she embraces chikankari, but perhaps on farshi denims. She is drawn to clothes that hold memory, but also invite reinvention,” Sethi adds. 

Lauded for highlighting what is often overlooked, GRAINE initiates a conversation in repurposed fashion by turning what was once waste into reimagined textiles. They reimagine traditional embroideries like badla and chikankari on unexpected bases like denims, mesh, organza, and in silhouettes far removed from convention.

ODE TO MODERN WOMAN 

Deme by Gabriella Demetriades 

Clean lines and muted palettes were not the definition of cool until Gabriella Demetriades said so. Deme, founded by the actor-model in 2012, added a new silhouette to the fashion vocabulary: the ‘toga-inspired’ silhouettes that feel strong and sensual. Coming from a family of textile business owners, Demetriades grew up attuned to fabric and form that soon turned into a passion. In addition to the sensual cuts, flowy silhouettes, and graceful gowns, “independence and strength” are the two attributes she tends to weave into all her designs. 

Her Greek lineage, together with years spent in India and Africa, dictates Demetriades’ distinct identity today. Fourteen years ago, a single Grecian drape became synonymous with the brand and its muse— women who, as she puts it, “work hard and live peacefully.” That said, her constantly evolving perception of womanhood acts as a driving force. “I’ve been many versions of myself, and each time I feel better than the last. I want to create pieces that are timeless and drive the narrative of the modern woman, which I feel is leaning towards being more powerful but also soft...we can be both,” she concludes.

All images: The brands

This article first appeared in Bazaar India's September-October 2025 print edition.

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