Godet: The vintage tailoring detail that’s bringing back flare with flair

Every few seasons, fashion rummages through its archives, dusts off a forgotten detail, and gives it a glossy new chapter. This time, it’s the godet—a wedge-shaped insert of fabric that’s having its moment in the sun (and on the runway) once again. The godet’s job? To make clothes swish, flow, and flirt with gravity. From mermaid hems and architectural gowns to couture ateliers and cool-girl closets, this little triangle of fabric has shaped silhouettes for centuries, and it’s twirling back into the spotlight.

So, what’s a godet really?

In the simplest terms, a godet is a triangular or sector-shaped panel sewn into the seam of a skirt, dress, or even sleeve to add movement and flare. The word itself comes from the French “godet,” meaning wedge, and that’s exactly what it is: a clever wedge of fabric that creates volume where it’s least expected.

Its origins date back to 16th-century Europe, when the technique was used to add more grace and mobility to gowns. But it truly came into its own during the 1930s, when designers began using it to craft those dreamy, dance-floor-ready skirts made famous by swing dancers and silver-screen starlets alike.

The dancers’ secret weapon

Before godets made their couture comeback, they lived a glamorous double life—part sewing technique, part stage trick. Swing dancers in the 1930s adored them for the freedom of movement they offered mid-twirl, while designers loved how they created the illusion of motion even when one stood perfectly still. It was fashion engineered for fluidity and flair, and let’s be honest, isn’t that the whole point of dressing up?

Hollywood’s golden godet era

Enter Madeleine Vionnet, the French designer famously dubbed the ‘architect of couture’. In the 1920s and 1930s, she took the godet out of the sewing manuals and into the world of high fashion, pairing it with her signature bias-cut silhouettes. The result? Dresses that moved like water—elegant, effortless, and undeniably sensual.

Vionnet’s designs soon found their way into the wardrobes of Old Hollywood royalty, including Katharine Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, and Joan Crawford, among others. The godet became synonymous with glamour, its whispering folds a hallmark of silver-screen seduction. And when Keira Knightley’s emerald dress in Atonement reintroduced the godet to modern audiences, it sealed its place in pop culture forever.

The 2020s revival: Flare with flair

Fast-forward to now, and godets are once again making waves. Luxury houses like Dior, Valentino, and Elie Saab are reimagining the insert in everything from ethereal gowns to midi skirts and tailored pieces. Designers are playing with lace, tulle, silk, and even leather godets, adding contrast and movement to structured forms. Think of it as vintage craftsmanship meeting modern sensuality.

How to wear it now

For everyday style, try a midi skirt with godet panels paired with a fitted top and boots, as it adds drama without the bulk. A godet-inserted gown can be your not-so-secret weapon for wedding season, giving volume and fluidity without overwhelming your frame. And if you’re feeling experimental, a godet-detailed peplum or structured shirt-dress offers just enough edge for office-to-evening transitions.

Lovebirds Silver Night Dress, ₹25,900

Area Faux Fur Godet Mini Skirt, ₹49,488 approx.

Bombaim Di Godet Skirt, ₹22,700

Massimo Dutti Long voluminous skirt with godet detail, ₹9,950

Sergio Hudson Multi-Seamed Mini Dress, ₹1,05,982 approx.

Gauri & Nainika Godet Skirt, ₹42,000

Ashlyn Women's Natural Leona Frilled Peplum Cami, 78,095 approx.

Stolen Studios Fairy Tube Top, 43,345 approx.

From dance floors to Dior ateliers, godet has proved it’s more than just a nostalgic flourish; it’s a design detail with staying power. Its evolution mirrors fashion’s own: fluid, feminine, and endlessly reinvented. So, if you’re looking for that perfect balance of romance and rebellion, this is your cue to let your wardrobe flare up (quite literally).

All images: Getty Images
 

Also read: Lace is flirting its way back into fashion’s spotlight

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