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Reviving India’s ancient fragrance heritage, one attar at a time

How luxury brands are breathing new life into this timeless craft for modern buyers.

Harper's Bazaar India

The fragrance world is in for a makeover, and it smells a lot like nostalgia—mixed with a dash of modern flair. Attars, India’s ancient, alcohol-free perfumes, are making a head-turning comeback, proving that what’s old can indeed be gold. These luxurious, oil-based fragrances, steeped in heritage and tradition, are winning over a new generation that’s all about authenticity, sustainability, and, of course, smelling absolutely divine.

To dive into this fragrant phenomenon, we caught up with Vidushi Vijayvergiya, co-founder and CEO of ISAK Fragrances, whose family’s 170-year-old legacy in perfumery informs her vision, and Divy Gupta, co-founder of Raahi Parfums and a seventh-generation scent maestro from Kannauj—India’s “perfume capital”. 

The scent trail

Imagine bottling the essence of India in a tiny glass vial—that’s an attar for you. These concentrated perfume oils are crafted through the slow, labour-intensive distillation of flowers, herbs, spices, and woods, with sandalwood as the base. This isn’t just a stylistic choice—it’s what makes attars so distinct.

Kannauj, a sleepy town with a centuries-old reputation for making the world’s finest attars, still does things the old-school way. Skilled artisans here use techniques passed down through generations to create perfumes that are as sustainable as they are luxurious.

And let’s not forget the eco-friendly brownie points. Unlike synthetic, alcohol-based perfumes, attars rely on nature’s bounty: jasmine, rose, vetiver, patchouli, and the ever-enigmatic oud. No chemical shortcuts, no mass production—pure artisanal magic distilled into liquid luxury.


Blending tradition and trends

Remember when attars were just single-note fragrances like rose or jasmine? Well, not anymore. Brands are taking traditional scents and giving them a modern twist with unexpected pairings. Think rose with spicy cinnamon, or citrus with smoky vetiver. “Younger consumers want depth and complexity in their fragrances,” Vidushi shares. “It’s no longer about one-note perfumes; it’s about creating stories with scent.”

“Take jasmine, or mogra—it used to be this loud, overpowering scent in the ’90s,” Divy shares. “We’ve made it subtler, more wearable. Woody and aquatic notes are also trending now, giving attars a more contemporary edge.”

Attars are also riding the wave of gender-neutral fragrances, which makes them even more appealing. Their natural, skin-friendly formulations make them wearable for everyone, no matter your age or style. And because they’re alcohol-free, they feel gentler on the skin and last longer.

The attar connect 

So, what’s driving the resurgence? For one, sustainability. Attars rely on natural ingredients and traditional methods, which resonate with eco-conscious consumers. Plus, they last longer—especially in hot, humid climates. “Attars don’t evaporate like alcohol-based perfumes, making them perfect for Indian temperatures,” Divy notes.

Personalisation is another big draw. Today’s buyers want their fragrances to feel as unique as their playlists. Brands are tapping into this by offering DIY blending kits and bespoke scent services, letting customers play perfumer for a day.

Globally, attars are earning their moment too. The Middle East, in particular, is obsessed with rich, exotic notes like oud and sandalwood. And here’s a fun fact: Indian attars have been the secret weapon behind many luxury French perfumes for years, thanks to India’s unparalleled quality of raw ingredients.


The fragrance revolution

Attars are more than just perfumes—they’re storytellers. Each vial holds a narrative of ancient craftsmanship, nature’s bounty, and modern innovation. “Perfumery is about emotion and memory,” says Vidushi. “A scent can take you on a journey before you even realize it. That’s the magic of attars.”

As the world shifts towards sustainable, mindful living, attars are stepping up as the ultimate luxury. Handcrafted, eco-conscious, and dripping in history, they’re not just scents; they’re experiences that linger long after the first whiff. Whether you’re a fragrance connoisseur or a curious newbie, there’s never been a better time to explore the timeless charm of attars. Because sometimes, the best way forward is to look (and smell) back.

 

Lead image: Pexels

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