When cultures collide—Ivan Brehm on 'Crossroads Thinking' and teaming up with Chef Prateek Sadhu

For Chef Ivan Brehm of Singapore’s Michelin-starred Nouri, cooking goes far beyond what’s on the plate. His philosophy, Crossroads Thinking, is rooted in the belief that food cultures do not exist in isolation—and that behind every dish lies a story of migration, trade, history, and shared human experience. At a time when "fusion" has become a buzzword and borders feel more defined than ever, Brehm challenges diners to rethink how deeply our culinary histories are already intertwined—whether we realise it or not.

Now, ahead of a much-anticipated collaboration with Chef Prateek Sadhu of Naar in India—where the two chefs will combine their distinct yet complementary approaches to traditional cuisine—Brehm reflects on why food can be a powerful tool for understanding cultural connections, why creativity and meaning go hand in hand, and what excites him most about breaking bread with chefs from around the world.

Harpers Bazaar India: Can you share a dish from Nouri that best represents Crossroads Thinking—and the story behind it?

IB: Narezushi (熟れ寿司). It is a celebration of the arc of history that would eventually give us edomae sushi. Japanese sushi actually began as a preservation technique called narezushi (mature sour rice), which over time evolved into the nigiri sushi we now see everywhere. Traditionally, freshwater fish would be buried under rice and salt and left to ferment—a method that extended shelf life. Even today, 100-year-old batches of narezushi can still be found in areas around Lake Biwa in Japan.

But what’s fascinating is how this preservation technique travelled to Japan along with rice cultivation, wine making, tea, lacquer, Buddhism, and Taoism—a journey that spans millennia from the first rice paddies of Southeast China and SEA. And narezushi isn’t unique—there are versions of it all over Asia: Pekasam in Malaysia, Phak and Prahok in Cambodia, Naem in Thailand. The story of sushi is really the story of cultural evolution in Asia—an evolution made possible, in my view, by shared human codes that connect us all, whether we see them or not.

HB: In a time where "fusion" cuisine is everywhere, how do you differentiate what you do with Crossroads Thinking?

IB: Fusion is about forcing things together—uniting things that are separate, like Pan-Asian or Tex-Mex. Crossroads, on the other hand, highlights connections that are already there. Through anthropology, history, and a chef’s own vocational knowledge, these links become self-evident. It’s a form of creativity that uses meaning as an ingredient—not just flavour.

HB: What's a nuance people often miss?

IB: That differences we see in humanity are circumstantial, not essential. They reflect the history of our individual experiences, but they’re not proof of some fundamental divide. Cultural diversity is the result of applying a shared human code to different experiences. It’s like different branches growing from the same root.

HB: When collaborating with chefs like Prateek Sadhu, how do you find balance between your respective philosophies? What excites you the most about this upcoming meal?

IB: The beauty of Crossroads is that it’s a way of thinking that easily holds space for different ways of cooking and seeing the world. In many ways, it’s a "theory of everything" for food and the arts—one that embraces difference as a natural outcome of shared universalities. So, when I cook with chefs like Prateek, it’s not about finding balance—it’s about seeing where our stories meet. I’m excited to cook with him because I know we’ll both walk away having learned something new.

HB: With Michelin stars and critical acclaim behind you, how do you continue to evolve and challenge yourself in the kitchen? What's a question you’re asking now that you weren’t five years ago?

IB: Honestly, the work itself is engaging enough to be its own reward. After years of research, we’ve been able to prove that there is an underlying unity in food culture—and now, we’re learning how to express that in practice. It’s had a massive impact on creativity, and I truly feel Nouri is moving into a space that’s new and uncharted—cooking that’s as universal as the connections we explore. Personally, my motivation comes from a deep sense of presence and love for the craft. I’m always asking how far we can take this—what else is there to uncover?

HB: Was there a moment—personally or professionally—when you first realised how deeply food cultures are connected?

IB: Many moments—but also, growing up in a very diverse family, this realisation was a way to make sense of my own life. Finding the common thread was necessary to reconcile my German-Russian side with my Syrian-Lebanese-Italian-Spanish roots. Food helped me see that connection—it taught me a lot.

HB: What’s one recent cultural or historical connection you've uncovered that completely changed how you think about an ingredient or dish?

IB: So many, but one that stuck with me recently is the link between language and diet. Apparently, the plosive sounds in English—like ‘p’ and ‘l’—come from a diet based on soft foods, which over time changed the way our jaws developed. That shift in physiology makes certain sounds easier to produce. To me, that’s incredible—how what we eat shapes not only our bodies but also our cultural expressions. It reminds me that food and identity are inseparable.

HB: Is there a culinary tradition or technique—especially one at risk of being forgotten—that you wish more people knew about?

IB: Sadly, many traditions are at risk of being lost. Industrial farming and mass food production have given us new things to eat, but they’ve also erased local and hyperlocal food cultures. Consumerism and the pace of technological change have created a globalised food landscape that’s often very homogeneous.

But I’m hopeful—technology is now helping to revive and preserve these traditions. Take the indigenous communities in Brazil, where I’m from—there are so many rich culinary histories that deserve to be celebrated. Of course, we have to acknowledge that some traditions naturally fade over time, but relevance is key to survival. If we can make these practices relevant again, through technology and awareness, we can give them new life.

HB: Looking ahead, how do you see Crossroads Thinking influencing not just fine dining, but also the way people cook and think about food at home?

IB: Crossroads Thinking is really a way of seeing the world as one integrated system. Food is just my way of accessing that idea. But the reality is, whether we accept it or not, we are connected—through complex and simple systems—and we’ve just forgotten how to see it.

I dream of a time when this understanding shapes how we relate to each other and to the planet. Right now, if you read the news, it’s clear what happens when we forget that connection. Our ideas of who we are don’t match up with our history, anthropology, or biology—the information is there, but we haven’t let it change how we live. I think food can lead the way. It’s a starting point for that much-needed shift in perspective.
 

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