This marvel in Africa has Prince Harry's heart, and there's no wonder why

Our first encounter with a herd of elephants left us teary-eyed. Since childhood, elephants have been our favourite animals. These wonderful giants have impeccable memory, and have the ability to distinguish between the good, the bad, and the dangerous. Lost in our thoughts, a giraffe makes an appearance from behind us, blinking twice with heavy eyelids decorated with long lashes. "Enjoy the beauty of the moment, but keep your distance," she gently warns with her gaze, and turns to the delicate jasmine-scented Kunzea flowers, which are also called the poor bush because it grows on the sparsest of soils. 

It is spring in Botswana, and the first day of our safari in Africa. Our flight from Johannesburg to Maun (a small town in the Batswana) took two hours, where upon landing, the hot winds seemed to curl our hair. Going forth in our travel, we switched to a smaller propeller plane with amusing pilots. Eventually, we landed in Kasane, which is far up north where the landlocked country borders Namibia and Zimbabwe. Our first camp was situated deep within the Chobe National Park it is the oldest national park in the country which spans thousands of square kilometres, and is the most secure in Africa. Botswana has a population of 2.2 million people, making it one of the most sparsely-populated countries in the world.

We realise the enormity of wild animals in Botswana en route to the camp... We see dozens of thirsty elephants making their way to the Chobe River, a sand lioness who is just a killed a kudu calf, and not too far away from her, a herd of impalas in anxious excitement. And then, the hippos wallowing in the mud, roaring as if in a bad mood. “Respect is our best weapon,” says Dux Mareja, our guide. The most feared animal is not a crocodile, a lion, or even a hyena—but a hippo. Dux’s knowledge about flora, fauna, and people is very vast...he knows everything from a giraffe’s keratin-hardened tongue (which is why it can eat prickly branches) to zebras, which are Botswana’s national animal. Dux steers the large off-road vehicle in which we are sitting.

Through open-air savannas and bushes, we make our way through deep holes and pools of water. Pro, our tracker, sits in front of the mounted folding chair which is next to the radiator hood. ‘Pro’—as often it is the case here—is a nickname because tourists often can’t pronounce African names. As I sit besides him, he patiently (but all in vain) tries to teach me the clicking sounds that are often enunciated in his language. Written as ‘X’, like in the word Nxabega, which is one of the oldest, and perhaps, most  romantic lodges.

Our first camp night at Chobe Under Canvas was a night of uneasiness for all. The anxiety primarily surfaced from the surroundings of our stay, which was in a semicircle with five large safari tents and a maximum of 10 occupants right in the middle of the wilderness. There were no fences, just an open fire pit and a long table with chairs. While it might sound very idyllic, in reality, we were sitting in the home of leopards, buffalos, and warty pigs. Dux and the team (including his butler) dismantle and assemble the camping tent every six days to avoid destroying wildlife trails. And did I say a tent? Once you unzip the entrance, it becomes clear that this is not a normal tent, rather, a furnished five-star suite experience.

The interior has fine raffia carpets to cover the floor, a large bed with a deluxe mattress, and embroidered linen hidden under the mosquito net. There is a chest to store the travel bags, a well-lit and separated washbasin (with a tin bowl and jug), a shower bag, and a toilet. As we settled in our luxurious accommodation, we had our first gin and tonic under a dramatic red sunset. For dinner, we had spicy chicken, veggies, and flatbread (although I have no idea how to cook all that in an open fire). As we lulled into sleep after having some wine, we heard lions roar. It was amusing to see how birds did not give into that monotonous call. Half asleep, I could hear some rustles here and there, but regardless, I slept peacefully.

Rejuvenated, we headed to our next destination, which was the Okavango Delta. As we peeped down the plane, we realised how unique this geographical feature was. It was one of the most impressive natural works of art in the world its floating oasis and blue waterways curving elegantly, mimicking a pattern of the Gardens of Versailles. Fields of papyrus grass and strips of desert gave way to alluvial plain. Africa’s natural wonders live on the pure water that comes from the highlands of Angola falls; in the middle of the falls is the Xaranna Okavango Delta Camp, which is our destination for the next couple of nights. Upon reaching, we received a warm African welcome from the staff. The tent we were staying in was built strongly with wood, including terraces, restaurant decks, and a pool on the shore. Dux promised us a “Moroko-boat Drive”, and before sunrise, we set off into the water at the traditional dugout. Gliding gently through knee high grassy alleys, we hear the gentle ring-like chimes of dragonflies, butterflies, and frogs. We pass small water lillies, and it seems like we are transcending time and opening the doors of our soul. The aura around us felt soft, light, and warm, and I wonder: is this how the word was intended to be?

Presently, while writing—it’s 5:30 am—the safari rhythm still resonates with me back home. I feel as if I am in Sandibe once again, experiencing the opulence of &Beyond Camps. The camp’s artistic skeleton, modelled after a pangolin and made with curved wood, delted walls, and wicker terraces, is nothing less than a marvel. I haven’t even begun telling you about Africa, yet the foundation created by Tara Getty—one of the CEOs—is the best. As I finished writing this article, I realised I didn’t mention many things like the time spent in the midday heat with lionnesses, the rare wild dogs, the surprising picnics with delicious delicacies, and the friends I made during the safari. As we prepared to say our goodbyes, we could not help but fall head over heels in love with this place. They say, “Africa gets under your skin,” and I could not agree more. One would have to write as prolifically as Bruce Chatwin, Nadine Gordimer, and Aminatta Forna to truly justify this beautiful place... I really wish for you to travel there and experience the magic yourself.