Modern Indian menus are going back to basics—with slow-cooked classics from the north

For Chef Rajesh Wadhwa, food has always been about more than just nourishment; it’s about storytelling. Stories passed down through generations, drawn from India’s diverse cultural fabric, and brought to life through flavours that evoke a memory and emotion. With confidence and respect for tradition, Wadhwa has reimagined heirloom recipes with a contemporary touch through the span of his career, earning him a reputation as one of India’s most thoughtful culinary voices. And while his dishes certainly captivate your palate, they also carry with them a sense of place, history, and heart.

At the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, where he once led the celebrated Masala series that transformed the landscape of modern Indian dining, Wadhwa now unveils his most personal project yet—Loya, a soulful homage to the untamed beauty and rich traditions of India’s northern frontiers. Here, fine dining is rooted in authenticity; recipes drawn from the northern frontiers of India are presented with thoughtful detail and a deep respect for their origins, all within the refined setting of the Taj.

In a candid conversation with Harper’s Bazaar India, Chef Wadhwa dives into the journey behind Loya, his vision for preserving regional culinary legacies, and creating space for emotion, innovation, and heritage to thrive—one unforgettable dish at a time.

Harper's Bazaar: You’ve said that food is a reflection of history, emotion, and innovation. How did this belief come to life with Loya, especially when creating a space that balances storytelling with fine dining at The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai?

Rajesh Wadhwa: Through our extensive travels, we were able to capture history and emotion in their rawest forms, giving us the narratives for each dish, which are then woven into the legendary Taj service. The storytelling part of the experience—whether told by chefs or team members—has deepened the understanding and appreciation of the Loya experience, and the strength of the concept is evident. At Loya, every plate is a story—a living memory borrowed from the rugged landscapes of the North and rooted in time-honoured traditions. This wasn’t just about curating a menu; it was about incorporating stories of celebration, survival, and belonging into the canvas of fine dining. At The Taj Mahal Palace, where the past meets the present, it was imperative to honour this emotional and historical richness while still providing an experience that is elevated, immersive, and deeply personal.

HB: The Masala series set a benchmark for modern Indian dining at the Taj. What prompted the shift to Loya, and in what ways does it evolve or challenge what Masala started?

RW: All cuisines evolve over time, including Indian food. Be it modern, progressive, or traditional, the diversity in Indian food ensures there’s something for everyone. We knew it was time to bring traditional techniques like slow cooking and the use of lesser-known ingredients back into the mainstream, and that philosophy led to the creation of Loya. The Masala series redefined modern Indian dining with its celebration of regional flavours through a contemporary lens. With Loya, we wanted to go a step further—to embrace the untouched, raw spirit of the North: soulful, communal, and rooted in centuries of tradition. Loya isn’t just an evolution; it’s a bold shift from reinterpreting classics to honouring them in their purest, most heartfelt form, through the lens of refined luxury.

HB: You’ve represented Indian cuisine on global stages—from St Moritz to Washington. How have those experiences shaped your understanding of what regional Indian food means today, both at home and abroad?

RW: There’s a growing appreciation and acceptance of Indian cuisine on the global stage. My experiences at St Moritz and Washington only strengthened the belief that Indian food has truly arrived internationally. Global diners now look forward to differentiated offerings from our diverse culinary landscape, beyond the stereotypical “spicy curries”. Guests today are well-informed, and authenticity is a huge draw. At Loya, this authenticity shines through, thanks to extensive research and the involvement of associates from the region who cook and serve with pride.

HB: You often talk about reviving forgotten spices and heirloom recipes. Can you share one such ingredient or dish that was particularly challenging or exciting to reinterpret for Loya?

RW: There are many ingredients that require careful sourcing at Loya. One particularly exciting discovery was the unique use of walnut and its ink to make Kangda meat. It taught us that something as simple as a walnut can have uses far beyond our usual imagination.

HB: What does ‘luxury on a plate’ mean to you today, and how do you ensure that every dish at Loya goes beyond just taste to evoke memory, heritage, and emotion?

RW: Luxury means different things to different people. It’s no longer just about expensive ingredients. Today, it’s about simplicity, hyper-local produce, unique spices, and traditional cooking methods—that’s the new recipe for luxury on a plate. At Loya, luxury is about crafting an experience that resonates deeply. We serve dishes infused with the warmth of home, the pride of heritage, and the nostalgia of age-old traditions—all presented with a refined elegance. 

HB: Mentorship has been a cornerstone of your career. How are you guiding the next generation of chefs, especially in encouraging them to honour tradition while experimenting boldly?

RW: Mentorship, for me, starts with pushing young chefs to explore through travel and real-world experiences, not just Instagram deep-dives. I urge them to connect with elders—our true knowledge keepers—and to see that Indian cuisine is so much more than just curries. Once they’ve learned to cook with authenticity, I encourage them to build on that with innovative ideas that elevate the dining experience. As Loya continues to grow, ongoing research is key—it fuels a cycle of discovery and creativity. Ultimately, mentorship is about striking that balance between honouring tradition and giving chefs the confidence to experiment. I want them to be storytellers, using food to blend memory with imagination.

HB: At this stage in your career, what do you hope Loya stands for within the larger narrative of Indian cuisine, both within the Taj legacy and in the broader culinary landscape?

RW: Loya has built a distinctive identity through its unique offerings, smooth service, and immersive storytelling. It’s a testament to the idea that Indian cuisine is far richer and more diverse than what is often showcased. With each new opening, we unveil fresh, lesser-known dishes that highlight this incredible variety. The Taj has always led the way in culinary innovation, and Loya is a natural extension of that legacy. At this point, I see Loya as a symbol of authenticity and excellence—a space where the vibrant traditions of India’s northern frontiers truly come to life. Within the Taj and beyond, I hope Loya sparks a deeper appreciation for genuine Indian flavours and craftsmanship.

All images: WordsWork 

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