Lessons Indian fashion weeks can take from global runways, according to experts
Gaurav Gupta, Dhruv Kapoor, and Aarti Vijay Gupta discuss what Indian fashion weeks do right—and what they can do better.
There’s a certain euphoria one experiences during the fashion week season. As Indian designers push their game at Lakmé Fashion Week and India Couture Week, our Instagram feeds remain full with the freshest updates from Milan, Paris, and New York. From the spray-on dress moment with Bella Hadid for Coperni, MSCHF’s Big Red Boot to Schiaparelli’s ultrarealistic animal heads, there have been multiple viral moments that have had global runways get and stay in the limelight. Indian designers like Gaurav Gupta and Rahul Mishra have made unforgettable marks on global runways. Yet, what's keeping Indian fashion week from being where’s Indian fashion? And what do we need to do to get there?
Indian Fashion Weeks have undergone immense changes, signalling an era of the fusion of heritage craftsmanship and modern technology. Ranging from the opulence of couture-filled showcases to streetwear-inspired moments of experimentation, events like FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week and India Couture Week have made space for Indian designers and helped spotlight their work.
In the past couple of years, the attention paid to storytelling, cultural heritage, and handlooms has made these events special. And yet, if we compare them alongside their global counterparts, it’s clear that in terms of scale, output, and global reach, there’s still a lot to achieve. Paris Fashion Week runs on high-fashion theatrics while Milan celebrates legacy houses, but Indian runways still walk on the balanced beam of tradition vs modernity. So, what are we getting right—and what more can we do?
Promoting Experimentation and Innovation
One of the biggest differences between Indian and international fashion weeks is the freedom to experiment. Globally, couture is often seen as wearable art, with brands like Schiaparelli and Iris van Herpen pushing creative boundaries without worrying about commercial viability. Indian fashion, on the other hand, is largely driven by bridal couture, catering to a well-established market but leaving little room for artistic risk-taking.
Designer Gaurav Gupta, known for his sculptural couture and futuristic draping, emphasises the importance of an ecosystem that nurtures creativity. While Indian designers are brimming with creative ideas, true experimentation requires access to advanced textiles, cutting-edge infrastructure, and financial support. However, to truly compete on a global scale, Indian designers need more resources and industry backing to transform groundbreaking ideas into reality. Gupta believes that access is the biggest hurdle. “True material innovation requires the right infrastructure, cutting-edge textiles, and the freedom to experiment,” he says. Whether it’s sculpted metals, biodegradable synthetics, or fabric manipulations yet to be explored, Indian designers need resources to push boundaries. “At Gaurav Gupta Couture, we’re constantly exploring new possibilities, from working with metal to moulding organza into fluid, futuristic silhouettes. The potential is limitless—we just need the right support to bring it to life.”
Another critical factor is storytelling. International brands weave narratives into their showcases, whether through the inspiration behind a collection or the immersive production of a runway show. This approach helps establish an emotional connection between brands and consumers. Stylist Abhimanyu Desai notes, "Storytelling plays a huge role in international fashion weeks. Whether it’s the inspiration behind a collection or the show’s production, it creates an intimate bond with the audience." If Indian fashion weeks incorporated more storytelling elements—through thematic set designs, curated show soundtracks, or visual projections—it could significantly enhance viewer engagement and create lasting brand impressions.
Post-show experiences are also said to play a huge role in amplifying a collection’s impact. In global fashion capitals, after-parties are more than just social gatherings; they are extensions of the brand experience. Desai suggests integrating interactive brand installations, performances, and immersive events at Indian fashion weeks to create viral social media moments and boost engagement.
Desai observes that while Indian brands successfully adapt international trends to local markets, there is a need for more unique creative direction. "What’s missing is individuality and character. Many collections end up looking repetitive. Designers need to develop a signature that sets them apart rather than following an established formula," he explains. To break this cycle, Indian designers and stylists must focus on injecting personality into their shows. A shift towards more experimental silhouettes, unconventional fabric manipulations, and unique styling choices could redefine the aesthetic of Indian fashion weeks. Introducing more avant-garde concepts and artistic collaborations could also push the boundaries of creativity, positioning Indian designers alongside their global counterparts.
Over-commercialisation in Indian Fashion Weeks
While Indian fashion weeks provide a formidable platform for designers, many still struggle to express themselves creatively on the runway. Dhruv Kapoor, an Indian designer who has been consistently making a mark on international runways, believes that over-commercialisation dilutes the immersive experience that fashion shows are meant to provide. The significant issue here, he points out, is the overwhelming presence of sponsor branding, which often dominates these runway shows. Kapoor suggests that India should take inspiration from global fashion capitals like Milan or Paris, where sponsors are acknowledged in designated areas rather than dominating the main show space, allowing designers to create a more cohesive and engaging runway experience.
Another challenge is visibility for contemporary designers, who are often overshadowed by legacy brands. While fashion councils actively support emerging talent through initiatives like Gen-Next, Kapoor emphasises the importance of structured, seasonal showcases rather than one-off opportunities. A consistent and well-defined calendar would provide young designers with the momentum needed to refine their craft, establish a stronger presence, and develop their brand identities over time.
Mentorship programmes could also change the game for Indian fashion weeks, shaping the next generation of design talent. Kapoor advocates for a more globalised approach to mentorship, where young Indian designers are connected with experienced stylists, image consultants, and fashion strategists from international markets. Such collaborations would help designers sharpen their storytelling, brand positioning, and business acumen, helping them make a mark in the industry, both at home and abroad.
Overcoming Structural Challenges in Indian Fashion Weeks
One of the biggest barriers to Indian fashion weeks gaining sustained global recognition is the lack of consistent international media coverage. According to designer Aaarti Vijay Gupta, the challenge isn’t just about attracting foreign press during fashion weeks but also maintaining a year-round global presence. While inviting international press and buyers to Indian runway shows is undoubtedly important, Gupta believes that long-term success hinges on continuous storytelling and engagement. “We need to establish an ongoing dialogue with global audiences, keeping the conversation alive even outside the confines of fashion week,” she explains.
A major limitation is the fragmented nature of India’s fashion industry. Unlike fashion capitals like Paris and Milan, where fashion councils work closely with media, retailers, and designers, Indian fashion weeks often operate separately. With multiple fashion weeks in different cities and no unified strategy, it’s harder to present Indian fashion as a strong, cohesive force globally. Gupta suggests that better coordination and branding could help improve India’s global fashion identity.
Another significant limitation of Indian fashion weeks is their focus on traditional formats and limited audience reach. Many brands remain fixated on securing a spot on the official fashion week schedule, underestimating the power of digital platforms. With social media offering an unprecedented global reach, designers now have the opportunity to showcase their work beyond conventional runway settings.
Unlike international fashion weeks that target a global audience, Indian fashion weeks predominantly cater to a local demographic. Expanding outreach requires a more strategic approach, such as cross-industry collaborations with beauty, entertainment, and e-commerce sectors. Abhimanyu Desai highlights the untapped potential of collaborations beyond Bollywood celebrities: "Fandoms are not just restricted to film stars. Athletes, musicians, and even spiritual leaders can help fashion brands reach new audiences and maximize their influence." Leveraging these figures could introduce Indian fashion to new markets and increase engagement across diverse communities.
According to us, the task ahead is to find a balance between commercial success and creativity as Indian Fashion Week progresses. While designers like Dhruv Kapoor, Aarti Vijay Gupta, and Gaurav Gupta push boundaries on global runways, the industry must create spaces for unrestricted creativity, whether through new sponsorship models, technology investments, or mentorship, while also staying true to its roots. But the real question remains: Are we truly ready to take that leap?
Lead Image: Gaurav Gupta Paris Couture Week SS'25 / Dhruv Kapoor Fall Winter’25-26
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