What does it take to make an “it-girl sneaker”?

It isn’t every day that a shoe holds the power to cause a collective fashion frenzy, and in 2025, it’s not a red-bottomed stiletto or a knee-length leather boot. It is something far more grounded—something fit for the fashion it-girl, the model off-duty, and even the girl-next-door. The Adidas Sambas.

From runway front rows to Gen-Z’s social feeds, these sneakers have become a new style staple, but they’re not the only pair making waves. More recently, the Adidas Taekwondo’s appeal is on the rise, with a sleek retro silhouette that’s hard to resist. Late last year, the Puma Speedcat slipped back into rotation, making its way from F1 paddocks to the soles of cool girls everywhere. Sneakers, after all, are no longer just boring or utilitarian afterthoughts to an outfit—they can be storytelling devices, often embodying a moment in pop culture and fashion history. Some would call them the forebearers of the streetwear wave that’s taken the world by storm and no one is immune—Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, not even Alia Bhatt.

Which begs the question: what gives a sneaker that elusive it-shoe status? The answer is more complex than just a celebrity co-sign. Nostalgic appeal, runway crossovers, subcultural cred, and a smartly executed sense of exclusivity balanced with accessibility seal the deal.

The Adidas Sambas, launched in the 1950s, were originally designed to be indoor football shoes. Today, they’ve found renewed relevance in the casual closets of everyone who’s anyone. “The appeal of the Sambas lies in their simplicity,” says Nisha Lulla, co-founder at Superkicks. “They go with everything, but they’re not trying too hard. They feel vintage without the effort.” It’s that kind of low-key, normcore energy that makes them catnip to a generation craving authenticity.

More recently, there’s Puma’s Speedcat—a throwback to 2000s motorsport style, now embraced by fashion insiders for its sleek silhouette and light offbeat appeal. “They remind me of old racing games, but when styled right, they’re shockingly chic,” says Lulla. “They’re also super wearable, and that’s half the battle won.”

As Helmut Fischer, chief archivist at Puma noted, the Speedcat is actually the best-selling Puma sneaker ever. Originally designed in 1984 for racing legend Stefan Bellof and later reimagined as a lifestyle shoe in 1999, it’s a prime example of how performance tech can evolve into everyday cool, even when it’s traditionally a tad too eclectic in colour. “The Speedcat represents a perfect blend of sport and fashion, which aligns with my love for merging comfort, performance, and style,” says Tania Shroff, the Speedcat’s ambassador in India. “I’m excited to showcase how this timeless collection brings energy and edge to everyday looks,” she adds.

Future nostalgia

Hollywood’s love affair with sneakers isn’t new, but only a few silhouettes can reach that iconic status. Case in point: the yellow-and-black Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66, immortalised by Uma Thurman in Kill Bill Vol. I. Its roots trace back even further, to Bruce Lee’s legendary tracksuit moment in Game of Death. For Onitsuka Tiger, this connection between cultural nostalgia and contemporary fashion is strategic. “Our design philosophy blends heritage with modernity,” a spokesperson from the brand shares. “By honouring our roots and reimagining archival designs with sustainable materials and collaborations, like our Astro Boy capsule, we ensure that each sneaker resonates with both collectors and casual wearers.”

It’s not just about the shoes, but the stories behind them. When Miuccia Prada collaborated with New Balance to create the distressed, deconstructed Miu Miu x New Balance 574, it sold out instantly. And these collaborations are on the rise. Lately, we’ve seen Onitsuka Tiger x Patou, Nike x Tiffany & Co., Converse x Comme des Garçons, and even Golden Goose x Swarovski. “When high fashion touches sport, the magic happens,” Lulla notes. “It’s the perfect storm of irony, exclusivity, and desire.”

So what does it take?

For a sneaker to become a bona fide cultural artifact, it needs more than good design—it needs a story. Often, this comes from tapping into subcultures: skaters, ravers, basketball fans. Brands like Nike and Adidas have long known this, embedding themselves in music, streetwear, and sport. There’s a science to sneaker hype. Drop culture, limited editions, and the right influencers are a huge part of it. But a shoe also has to look effortless. It needs to feel lived-in, not lab-made. The Mexico 66, for example, is celebrated not just for its cinematic legacy but its constant evolution. Newer models incorporate cactus leather and recycled materials, appealing to a climate-conscious generation while keeping the vintage vibe alive.

Indian fashion's own sneaker wave is also rising. From stylists pairing kicks with lehengas to celebrities making sneakers red-carpet-worthy, the footwear genre is seeing its desi renaissance. Sneakers have become a language of cool here, too—think Natasha Poonawalla in Louis Vuitton Archlights or Janhvi Kapoor spotted in Yeezys. There's definitely a local It-Girl sneaker scene brewing. The rise of edgy and authentic homegrown sneaker brands like Gully Labs, Comet, and Banjaaran Studio is proof that the next it-girl sneaker may even come from India.

Naina Bhan, intimacy cordinator and fashion influencer, is definitely here for it. “My current sneaker staple is the Puma Palermo. The Gully Labs Baaz Indrani have also been on my wish list for a while—they come with a little ghungroo you can detach,” she shares. “I usually style my sneakers with any and every casual outfit—they go especially well with my baggy jeans. I’m not a big fan of chunky sneakers, so sleeker and chic-er European-inspired styles work well for me. There’s just so much room to play around.”

The secret sauce lies in that delicate intersection between form and feeling. The silhouette must strike a visual chord—whether minimal and classic like the Samba, or bold and referential like the Mexico 66. It needs cultural roots but a sense of newness. It must be wearable, yet just elusive enough to feel exclusive. And, perhaps most importantly, it must make you feel like the coolest person in the room—even if you’re just wearing denim with a tee. After all, the right sneaker isn’t just worn. It’s lived in.
 

Feature image: Puma & Adidas

Also read: The Samba sneakers have a long-lost relationship with football

Also read: Streetwear continues to cement its status in India