The fashion highlights you need to know from a monumental May

May was no ordinary month on the fashion calendar—it was a crescendo of artistic evolution, cultural collaborations, and momentous industry shifts. From Paris to Delhi to London, the world witnessed the rise of fresh visions, the return of beloved designers, and the growing global footprint of Indian talent. Whether it was an unexpected creative appointment, a fantastical fashion-meets-pop-culture mashup, or a poignant celebration of heritage crafts, each headline this month pointed to a future where fashion is no longer just about clothes—it’s about context, culture, and the communities that shape it. Here's a look at the seven standout fashion moments that defined May.

Pierpaolo Piccioli ushers in a new chapter at Balenciaga

The appointment of Pierpaolo Piccioli as Balenciaga’s new creative director marks one of the most anticipated comebacks in luxury fashion. After a celebrated tenure at Valentino where he became synonymous with poetic romanticism, Piccioli now steps into the avant-garde world of Balenciaga, succeeding Demna, whose departure earlier this year closed a bold, meme-fuelled era. With this new role, Piccioli brings a promise of emotional depth, artistic precision, and sartorial soul—qualities that could steer Balenciaga back toward a quieter, more refined elegance. Kering’s strategic decision not only signals a reset for the storied house but also reflects the industry’s shifting appetite toward intentional luxury over spectacle. All eyes are now on Piccioli’s debut collection, set to redefine what Balenciaga means in 2025.

Kanika Goyal gives Mickey Mouse a sci-fi streetwear makeover

When designer Kanika Goyal announced her collaboration with Disney, expectations ran high—but the final outcome exceeded all imagination. The 114-piece capsule blends Goyal’s signature androgynous tailoring with grunge-inspired textures and surreal, sci-fi landscapes featuring Disney icons like Mickey Mouse. The collection feels like a psychedelic trip through childhood nostalgia filtered through a rebellious, art-school lens. Think layered denim, spliced suiting, and glitchy prints that blur the lines between punk, pop culture, and Indian heritage. The use of Madras checks and paisleys nods to local traditions, while the futuristic color palette and abstract silhouettes recontextualize these motifs for a new world. Goyal’s collection proves that nostalgia, when wielded with subversion and storytelling, can be far more than kitsch—it can be culture.

FDCI’s ‘Shrijan’ exhibit melds craft, history, and emotion

In an age of fast fashion and fleeting trends, the FDCI’s “Shrijan – Birth of a Craft” exhibition was a stirring reminder of the soul embedded in India’s textile traditions. Curated by FDCI Chairman Sunil Sethi and supported by the Ahmedabad-based initiative Craftroots, the exhibit celebrated the rich tapestry of Indian handloom through a multisensory lens. Showcasing techniques like mashru weaving, ajrakh printing, and Kutchi embroidery, the space also featured innovative installations using LEDs and sculptural elements that brought the story of craft alive. More than just a visual experience, Shrijan created an emotional resonance—one that honoured the weavers, dyers, and artisans whose work often remains unseen. It was a quiet, powerful homage to the hands that shape India's fashion identity.

Divani’s New Delhi store turns couture into immersive theatre

Luxury label Divani reimagined the Indian couture shopping experience this May with the opening of its flagship boutique at Dhan Mill in Delhi. But calling it a store would be a disservice—it’s more like a curated museum of Indian opulence. Designed to resemble a regal gallery space, the interiors shimmer with gold accents and zardozi-laced walls, creating an atmosphere that pays tribute to both craft and celebration. Divani, which champions centuries-old embroidery techniques and artisanal detailing, now has a space that reflects the brand’s dedication to heritage and grandeur. It’s a destination where bridal dreams meet historical reverence, offering shoppers an experience that is as sensorial as it is sartorial.

Nikhil Thampi’s ‘Naia’ marks a transformative milestone

After a brief hiatus, designer Nikhil Thampi returned to the fashion spotlight with a powerful message of evolution. ‘Naia: Rebirth of a Goddess’ is both a personal and creative milestone for Thampi, celebrating 15 years in the industry with a collection that evokes themes of strength, metamorphosis, and femininity. The line features sharply structured silhouettes softened with fluid drapes, kundan beadwork juxtaposed with modern tailoring, and earthy tones that suggest grounding and growth. Inspired by the mythology of divine rebirth, the collection positions the contemporary woman as her own hero, resilient, radiant, and reborn. It’s a fitting metaphor for Thampi himself, whose return signals not just a comeback, but a bold reinvention.

Jenna Ortega brings a youthful edge to Dior’s beauty line

In a strategic move aimed at bridging generations, Dior named American actress Jenna Ortega as the global face of its makeup line. Best known for her breakout role in Wednesday, Ortega brings a unique blend of old-school glamour and youthful irreverence to the brand. Her first campaign, shot for Dior’s Backstage line, pays homage to silent film icons like Lupe Velez and Clara Bow—reimagined through the modern lens of makeup director Peter Philips. With her sharp eyeliner, soft gothic allure, and commanding presence, Ortega embodies the new Dior woman: bold, expressive, and globally relevant. 

Shantnu & Nikhil make global history at The Big Egg Hunt

Indian designers Shantnu & Nikhil became the first from the country to participate in The Big Egg Hunt, a prestigious public art initiative hosted at Kew Gardens in London. Their sculptural installation, titled ‘Valour’s Vessel,’ was unveiled in the presence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla as part of a larger initiative by Elephant Family, Clarence Court, Chopard, and the British Asian Trust. Infused with the duo’s signature elements—military-inspired coins, medallions, and chakra buttons—the piece was both a tribute to Indian heritage and a call to action for wildlife conservation across South Asia. By merging mythology, artistry, and environmental awareness, the project proved that Indian fashion can be a powerful voice on global, cross-disciplinary platforms.

May’s fashion happenings were far more than headlines—they were milestones that reflected where the industry is headed. From the cerebral poise of Piccioli’s appointment to the boundary-pushing joy of Kanika Goyal’s Disney detour, the month was a vibrant mosaic of heritage, rebellion, reinvention, and global ambition. Indian designers, in particular, stood tall—making waves not just on home turf but across international stages. If this month is any indication, the future of fashion lies in the fearless convergence of craft, culture, and creativity.

 

Lead Image: Divani at Dhan Mill

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