The best clothes at London Fashion Week this time around were Indian

London Fashion Week has long been a stage to get a sense of the pulse of what’s next in fashion, but this season, the spotlight belonged to Indian and diaspora designers. AK|OK, HARRI, and Ashish made waves with their vision, craft, and unapologetic energy. Three labels, three distinct perspectives, and a shared declaration: that Indian fashion is global, modern, and utterly magnetic. It wouldn’t be wrong to point out that London has felt a little lacklustre the past couple of seasons—oversaturated with shows, overshadowed by Milan and Paris, and failing to spotlight new talent... but this season, with the refreshing vision of the Indians on the scene, the city’s runway suddenly feels alive again, vibrant, and impossible to ignore. 

Anamika Khanna’s AK|OK debut felt like both a homecoming and a revelation. The Hamleys store on Regent Street became a playground of memory and craft. Khanna’s collection drew deeply from her own heritage. She revisited her grandmother’s hand-embroidered skirts and woven shawls, then proceeded to translate these fragments of memory into modern silhouettes. Sheer chiffons floated over metallic chain skirts, while floral motifs danced across silk sets, and satin lace-ups felt like couture in ready-to-wear form. Drapes, embroidery motifs, and metallic accents intertwined with jeans, jumpsuits, and boots—it was an elegant marriage of tradition and London edge. There was grunge in the layering, sophistication in the metallics, and a rhythmic chaos in the amalgamation of it all. It was boho-chic, yes, but with a distinctly global twist—boots and jutti-inspired flats shared the runway, silver accessories clinked alongside gold, and sheer lace teased and dazzled. Every detail spoke to Khanna’s prowess, showing the world what Indian craftsmanship looks like at a global scale.

Earlier in the week, HARRI’s Spring/Summer 2026 MuseumWear collection blurred the line between futuristic fantasy and wearable art. The Kerala-born designer, celebrated for his inflatable silhouettes and theatrical explorations, tempered spectacle with pragmatism on the runway. Black and nude tones dominated, punctuated by textures ranging from latex to net, with eclectic prints and occasional pops of colour. It felt futuristic, dystopian, and refreshing all at once. Bellowing, exaggerated shoulders gave the silhouettes drama, while minimalist tailoring ensured a sense of modern-day relevance. It was an elegant negotiation between imagination and practicality: sculptural shapes moved with fluidity, experimental concepts settled into wearability, and the runway became a playground for texture and proportion. 

Ashish, on the other hand, turned the catwalk into a carnival of colour and exuberance (read: dopamine dressing). The London-based Delhi-born designer, synonymous with maximalist glamour, presented flowing silhouettes drenched in Jaipur-inspired prints, Bandhani touches, tulle, and sequins. It was a fever dream rendered in fabric. Freely fitting, fluid garments shimmered under the lights, skirts twirled, and every layer sparkled with an infectious optimism. Ashish’s technicolour palette and hand-embroidered details—long adored by the likes of Beyonce, Taylor Swift, and Madonna—reminded the audience why his vision continues to redefine international perceptions of Indian fashion. He turned the catwalk into a dance floor, giving us the reminder we all needed: that fashion should be fun. 

What unites these three designers is not just heritage but an ethos: the refusal to be constrained. Khanna plays with nostalgia and modernity, while HARRI navigates theatricality and wearability, and Ashish transforms maximalism into ready-to-wear pieces. Collectively, they articulate the multiplicity of Indian fashion today: intelligent, layered, bold, and increasingly global in terms of appeal. These were collections that demanded to be felt, not just seen. And the message was clear: the best clothes at London Fashion Week were Indian. They were visionary, meticulous, and alive. They were the kind of designs that make you stop, look again, and remember that fashion is more than just clothing.

Lead image: Getty

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