It’s here and it’s glorious—Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut

In a season buzzing with creative shifts across luxury houses, the most anticipated moment unfolded in Paris today as Jonathan Anderson unveiled his debut collection for Dior Men Spring/Summer 2026. With expectations sky-high following his appointment earlier this year, the Irish designer delivered a show that proved both reverent to Dior’s storied heritage and thrillingly modern.

Kylian Mbappé sets the tone for Dior’s new era

Before the runway lights went up, teaser videos starring French football star Kylian Mbappé hinted at the bold new vision Anderson planned to bring to Dior. These clips set the stage for a collection that leaned into athletic codes and American nostalgia, filtered through the lens of a French maison reimagined by an Irish designer. It was a global conversation rendered in fabric.

Shorts, shirts, and subversive statements

From these first looks, Anderson made it clear that this collection would challenge expectations. Models stepped out in playful, ruffle-draped cargo shorts styled with sharply tailored jackets, some were shirtless but finished with scarves or neck-brace bow ties. Boat shoes, a nod to preppy classics, grounded the looks with ease, while sculptural capes and cocooned outerwear injected a sense of soft drama and balanced romanticism with wearability, confirming Anderson’s skill of blending normcore with the avant-garde.

A poetic approach to masculinity

The collection reimagined masculine tailoring with a delicate, almost monastic sensibility. Fluid trenches, crisp shirting, and slim trousers were offset by nostalgic accessories like schoolboy ties, bookish totes, and hints of medieval-inspired embroidery. Dior’s classic codes were given a fresh perspective with layered capes and softly structured silhouettes that felt both aristocratic and contemporary. Yet, the vibe remained relaxed—structured but never stiff, thanks to elements like sneakers, casual shorts, and easy layering.

Beauty, casting, and star power

The show’s beauty moments offered a subtle but powerful statement. Models appeared with strong brows, ruddy cheeks, and softly shaded eyes, evoking a romantic Victorian spirit. Anderson’s nuanced take on men’s grooming felt effortless and natural—men wearing makeup with a casual confidence that pointed to a more inclusive vision of masculinity.

Casting played a key role in the show’s impact, with models wearing each look beautifully and embodying the quiet power of Anderson’s Dior. The front row was equally star-studded: A$AP Rocky and Rihanna—who wore a layered Dior Men’s look herself—sat alongside Roger Federer and his wife, Daniel Craig, Robert Pattinson, Donatella Versace, and Sabrina Carpenter (also dressed in Dior Bar Jacket). Their presence cemented the event as the hottest ticket of Paris Fashion Week.

Craft, character, and a confident future

Jonathan Anderson’s debut didn’t rely on flashy branding; instead, it focused on meticulous craft, rich textures, and thoughtful storytelling. Each ensemble felt like a character from a forgotten 19th-century novel, romantic and worldly, yet grounded in the present. The nostalgic elements were balanced by a modern energy that made the collection feel wearable and fresh, underscored by the subtle return of Dior’s old logo.

A new chapter begins for Dior

As the final look exited the monumental runway to a standing ovation, it was clear that Anderson’s first outing at Dior had struck a chord. He acknowledged the impossibility of reinventing a house as historic as Dior in a single show, but also made an assured first step by blending heritage and modernity with heart and precision. With control over menswear, womenswear, and haute couture, Anderson has set the stage for an exciting new chapter for Dior—one where tradition and innovation meet in a way that feels both intentional and irresistible.

Editorial inputs and collage: Eshaan Raj.

All images: Getty Images

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