Italian PM Giorgia Meloni's jhumka moment: Cultural appropriation or a style statement?

When Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni stepped out wearing a pair of traditional Indian jhumkas, it didn’t take long for the internet to take notice. The look quickly began circulating across social media, with many celebrating the unexpected nod to Indian jewellery.

However, many pointed out that it happened at a time when global designers and fashion houses are being panned online for replicating Indian designs without due credit. As the images spread, the conversation moved beyond just style. Jhumkas are not just accessories; they carry cultural memory, craftsmanship, and identity. Netizens wondered if Meloni's move was a respectful embrace of Indian culture or just another instance of borrowing without context.

The jhumka row

Jhumkas have long been a staple in Indian jewellery, tracing back centuries across regions and traditions. From temple jewellery in South India to intricate gold and silver designs in the North, they are deeply tied to heritage. They are worn at weddings, festivals, and everyday moments, often passed down through generations.

In recent years, jhumkas have also entered global fashion through more controversial routes. One of the most talked-about moments came when Ralph Lauren recently featured earrings at Paris Fashion Week, strikingly similar to traditional Indian jhumkas, without any credit to the design's roots.

The designs, presented as part of a broader “vintage” or “bohemian” aesthetic, were quickly called out by audiences online. Many pointed out that what was being showcased as a new, stylised accessory had, in fact, existed for centuries within Indian craftsmanship. The backlash was not just about design similarity, but more about the lack of credit and the erasure of history, artisans, and the cultural meaning attached to these pieces. While Indians are proud that the centuries-old design is finally travelling around the globe, the cultural appropriation is not what they are okay with.

Where Meloni’s moment sits

Meloni’s choice to wear jhumkas appears, at first glance, to be a simple styling decision. There was no exaggeration or costume-like interpretation, just a subtle integration into her look. For many, this read as a sign of appreciation, especially in a political context, where fashion can serve as a gesture of cultural acknowledgement.

And while on a normal day the internet fashion police might have let this pass, at a time when discussions about cultural appropriation have been all over social media, netizens would have been somewhat happier if the Italian PM had credited Indian craftsmanship for the jewellery she flaunted in her selfie.

Meloni’s jhumka picture might have seemed like another of her casual posts at first, but it has unfolded into something more layered. It should be noted that this discussion does not mean that cultural elements should remain within rigid boundaries. Fashion thrives on exchange, yes, but wearing something from another culture is no longer just about aesthetics; it is also about credit and responsibility.

All images: Getty

Also read: Ralph Lauren’s "vintage" earrings are Indian jhumkas, and remain uncredited

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