Gucci’s new high jewellery collection is a tribute to Italian splendor

The Italian gardens are a veritable treasure trove of beauty. Their geometrically patterned beds, serpentine walks, and intersecting lines, never fail to inspire. So, it’s no surprise that these gardens play muse to Gucci’s latest high jewellery collection. The Maison, born in Florence, returned to its roots this year with Labirinti Gucci—a collection of 140 one-of-a-kind masterpieces that cement the House’s commitment to exceptional craftsmanship and innovation. Unveiled at an event at the Oscar Niemeyer Auditorium in Ravello, along the Amalfi Coast, at the heart of the collection are three themes: Symmetry and Ordered Beauty, Geometric Splendor, and Blooming Nature. The collection stands out for its exquisite selection of gemstones, carefully curated to evoke the quintessence of an Italian garden.

Kicking off the first theme, which embodies the order and harmony of the gardens, is a statement cuff studded with a 5.93-carat Colombian emerald with a dazzling green hue. Adorning the core are floral motifs with five other striking diamonds. At the same time, the framework itself is inlaid with white pavé diamonds presenting a genius fusion of the paths of a labyrinth and the House’s iconic G motif. Another stunning piece in this theme is a white gold necklace that has a 28.07-carat spinel as its nucleus, along with tourmaline rubellite beads and pear-cut tsavorites—all coming together to create luminous blossoms. The second theme has a line of necklaces that embody the geometric and linear forms typical to Italian gardens. One of the stunning masterpieces in this theme is a necklace with white gold chain of pavé diamonds in the Maison’s G motif, from which hangs a rare 20.45-carat Paraiba tourmaline in green hue paired with a trio of yellow sapphires totalling 17.77 carats.A 62.58-carat Santa Maria aquamarine, known for its hue reminiscent of the ocean, takes pride of place in a three-strand necklace framed by diamond baguettes and sapphire beads. Along with the necklace, a pair of earrings, a ring, and a magnificent bracelet—all variants of the same design—form a lavish suite.

The collection concludes with the addition of a new motif, the dragonfly—a symbol of freedom and rebirth—in its final chapter. In this theme, the House diverges from using exclusively floral motifs, as evident in the firefly brooches and mismatched earrings embellished with an array of tanzanites, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds, white diamonds, and spinels. One of the collection’s most significant stones, a 113.35-carat green tourmaline, appears in a necklace under this theme.The gem can be further detached and worn as the wearer wishes.

Labirinti Gucci is a testament to the intricate and captivating designs that can be achieved through inspiration drawn from nature’s order and beauty. Each piece is a harmonious blend of innovation and tradition, making this collection not only a tribute to Italian gardens but also a celebration of Gucci’s enduring legacy in the world of high jewellery.

All images: The brand

This piece originally appeared in the October-November print edition of Harper's Bazaar India

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