The Japanese brands we couldn’t ignore at Paris Fashion Week

Japan’s fashion vanguard has long showcased its magic through pleats, deconstruction, and a blend of thematic and poetic restraint on the ramp. The influence of Anime and Cosplay culture, along with the fusion of the global landscape, has brought Japanese fashion to the forefront of the global runway. Paris Fashion Week Menswear Spring/Summer 2026 is proof of this, as numerous houses and designers displayed their sleek craftsmanship through their collections. Their voices roared—quietly, confidently—reshaping global style as we know it.

From Kyoto-inspired origami tailoring and unapologetic anime maximalism, to minimalist tailoring meets manga surrealism and ceramic-inspired textures flirting with punk rebellion, these labels had a lot to showcase. Here's a curated list of Japanese masters who made their mark in Paris this season—and are here to stay.

Kidill

 

Kidill’s “Spiritual Bloom” curated a tactile riot of Harajuku‑meets‑cyberpunk energy. The collection was a love letter to rebellion, anime nostalgia, and subcultural mashups. From tartan chaos and spike chokers to graphic tees and Manga motifs, every look played with contrast. The palette went from gritty reds and blacks to saccharine pastels and bubblegum pinks, styled with edge and attitude. It read like a punk time capsule reimagined through a modern lens, rooted in Tokyo’s late ’90s downtown subcultures. 

Issey Miyake

Homme Plisse Issey Miyake unveiled its SS26 collection "Amid Impasto of Horizons" at the historic Villa Medicea della Petraia in Florence. Inspired by Italy’s lush landscapes and city textures, the collection felt like a painted journey—one brushstroke at a time. From Tuscan light to terrazzo pavements, everyday details were abstracted into pleated motion and pigment-rich palettes. Familiar silhouettes were reimagined with a softness that felt both tactile and transcendent. This marked a new chapter for the brand—one that moves with curiosity, colour, and quiet clarity.

COMME des GARÇONS

Rei Kawakubo’s Comme des Garçons machinery remains unmoved by trends, and this season reaffirmed that. For Spring 2026, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus delivered “Not suits, But suits”—tailoring reimagined through optical illusions, sculpted hips, and shamanic intent. Thick black hair swayed beneath multi-brim caps, while skinny trousers unzipped into bursts of volume. Kawakubo’s vision felt like a spiritual glitch in a system built on structure. Less business, more otherworldly resistance.

Kenzo

Kenzo’s collection was an unexpectedly harmonious fusion of Japanese construction, American workwear, and British attitude. Utility jackets met bold prints and tailored silhouettes wore utility’s practical heart. It was refined wanderlust—an everyday chic that nodded to geography and subculture alike. Kenzo continues to bridge continents without stepping on tradition’s toes.

Auralee

Emerging quietly but confidently, Auralee is minimalism honed to perfection. Known for using premium raw textiles—cotton, silk, linen—the brand presented subdued silhouettes, tactile fabrics, and impeccable tailoring. Auralee was spotlighted for craftsmanship and tactile subtlety alongside Hermès. It’s the antithesis of spectacle—where quiet luxury speaks louder than logos, and texture tells the tale.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yamamoto’s Paris presence remains as solemn and drenched in noir as ever. His signature draping—fluid, monochromatic tributes—continues to enthrall. His work remains a pillar of Japanese minimalist rebellion . Every voluminous coat, every sweeping pant leg feels timeless and filled with quiet defiance.

Maison Mihara Yasuhiro

Mihara Yasuhiro, the sneaker‑first craftsman, celebrated two decades of underground cool. Though Milan has been his playground, his Paris silhouette is unmistakable: counter‑culture footwear and playful apparel. The Peterson OG sole continues to drive the brand’s success, sitting comfortably between cult classic and international darling. A mentor to Tokyo’s new wave, his philosophy eschews virality in favour of steady, creative artistry.

Junya Watanabe

A master of techno‑couture, Junya Watanabe continues his intense work with synthetic textiles and architectural precision. For this season, his joint showcase—alongside Comme des Garçons Homme Plus—Junya Watanabe SS26 blended workwear with ornate prints. Floral and baroque patterns met structured silhouettes. Chains and layers added punk energy to classic tailoring. Structured jackets, unexpected fabrics, and engineering as narrative—the collection felt like a blueprint of modernism. And true to form, Watanabe stood aside, letting his clothes do the talking.

From origami-like precision and futuristic textures to punk energy and sculptural drama, each label brought its own point of view—but shared a common thread: craft, contrast, and creative fearlessness. These collections spoke of culture, perspective, and identity. Japan’s quiet fashion voice is powerful—and in Paris, it’s growing louder. 

Lead image: Getty Images

Also read: What a waist of time: Y2K belts are finally back

Also read: Couture is in full bloom at Paris Haute Couture Week and here's everything we've loved (so far)