How this brand quietly rewrites the rules of relevance

For years, COS has been one of those “if you know, you know” labels for me—a brand I’d stock up on abroad and treasure until the next trip. Which is why, when I heard that the London-based brand was finally making its way to India, my emotions were mixed. I was thrilled, of course, because I’d no longer have to wait until I travelled overseas. But I’ll admit, there was also a tinge of reluctance—my ‘not-so-secret’ secret was about to become everyone’s. 

Earlier last month, on a quick trip to Mumbai, I sat down with Karin Gustafsson, COS’ Design Director, just after the brand had presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection alongside a preview of its Autumn/Winter 2025 line. Gustafsson smiled when I confessed my long-time obsession. “Indian customers can expect collections that are all about quality and longevity,” she guaranteed. “We design with the intention that pieces last well beyond a single season. Our aesthetic is refined and understated, but always relevant— both in the moment and in the years ahead.”

This balance between timelessness and relevance lies at the heart of COS. Founded in London in 2007, the brand has since expanded to 239 stores across 48 markets, with online retail in 38. Now, India becomes its newest home, with the first store opening at Select City Walk Mall in New Delhi in Autumn/Winter 2025. (For the record: it won’t be a flagship, but the beginning of what may well grow.)

When I asked what she thought might resonate most with Indian consumers, Gustafsson pointed to silhouettes. “Even with wardrobe staples—the shirt, the suit, clean knitwear—our process involves working a lot on the dress stand. Draping and reworking how fabric falls is very important to us. That slightly reconsidered way of shaping might connect deeply here.”

COS’ entry to India coincides with a moment where fashion here is becoming more experimental, global, and adventurous. But Gustafsson is careful not to design for a single demography. “We design for a mindset rather than a market. Our customer is someone who knows their style, is culturally aware, and is curious about the world. Clothes should never overpower personality—they should empower it.”

Though the team is based in London, Gustafsson admits that COS’ principles echo Scandinavian design codes: clean lines, form following function, and an emphasis on longevity. “Those mid-century ideas shaped COS when we started in 2007, and they’re still relevant today.” 

Inspiration, for her, is endless. “A seed becomes a story, a story becomes a collection, a collection becomes a look. That process never stops,” she said. “It’s what keeps me going season after season.” I couldn’t resist asking whether India had ever played into COS’ inspiration boards. Gustafsson didn’t hesitate. “India always comes up in some way. We gather references constantly—materials, objects, and especially art. Anish Kapoor has been on our mood boards so many times. His work is so emotional, minimal, and powerful.” That struck a chord. I told her about one of my earliest Bazaar India covers, where we photographed drag icon Violet Chachki in Indian couture against a Kapoor installation. Gustafsson lit up: “What an image. What a cover!”

Before we wrapped, I posed the question that has been on every Indian COS fan’s mind: could we hope for a capsule collection designed especially for this market? She paused, then smiled. “We would love to, especially after spending time here. Nothing is planned yet—but maybe in the future.” 

For now, anticipation builds. COS’ New Delhi opening this autumn/winter is only the beginning of the brand’s India story— one that I am sure will resonate far beyond a single store.

This article first appeared in the October 2025 print issue of Harper's Bazaar India.

Also read: Echoes from home: How seven women are weaving new futures through fashion

Also read: Artists around the world reimagine the iconic Lady Dior