Why enzyme exfoliation is replacing acids as beauty’s new power move

If my feed was anything to go by to decipher beauty trends, I would say skincare has become almost sci-fi. And the latest to join this bandwagon is the DMK Enzyme Therapy, which has faces frozen under what looks like a layer of plaster. These masks don’t just promise glow; they claim to oxygenate the skin. However, the fact is, most of us discovered enzymes long before Instagram did—remember that gritty papaya scrub you swore off in college? 

Today, enzymes have been reimagined as something almost spiritual, their function no longer limited to exfoliation but elevated to “therapy”. As someone who has seen skincare evolve from the 10-step K-beauty routine to the minimalist skin-barrier movement, I can’t help but feel enzymes sit somewhere beautifully in the middle: clinical yet calming, scientific yet sensorial. 

So, what exactly are these enzymes that promise to resurface the skin without stripping it raw? “At a cellular level, enzymes enhance skin turnover by accelerating the natural desquamation process,” explains Dr Chiranjiv Chhabra, Chief Dermatologist and Founder, Alive Wellness Clinic. They act like intelligent exfoliators. “They selectively cleave peptide bonds within corneodesmosomes—the protein structures that bind corneocytes in the stratum corneum—supporting renewal without disrupting the lipid barrier or living keratinocytes,” adds Dr Chhabra. 

Liquid Peelfoliant, Dermalogica, ₹6,119

Unlike acids, which dissolve deeper layers, or scrubs, which physically scrape them off, enzymes function like smart polishers, discerning enough to leave healthy skin untouched. It’s this intelligence that’s made enzymes the darlings of new-age skincare. Formulators are finding new ways to stabilise them in serums, cleansers, and viral mask treatments that claim to tighten and lift as they dry.

THE FRUIT EFFECT 

The most celebrated members of this family come from fruits. Among the most popular are papain, bromelain, and pumpkin enzymes, each carrying its own speciality. “Papain, from papaya, is a powerful yet gentle exfoliator that breaks down keratin whereas bromelain, extracted from pineapple, is anti-inflammatory and ideal for oily or acne-prone skin. Pumpkin enzymes, rich in vitamins A and C, not only exfoliate but also brighten and nourish,” explains Dr Chhabra. 

Mini Sood Banerjee, Deputy Director and Head of Marketing, Innisfree India, notes that each fruit enzyme brings a distinct strength to formulations: “Papain improves texture, bromelain soothes and reduces inflammation while pumpkin enzymes deliver antioxidant benefits along with exfoliation. When blended, they offer a balanced approach to renewal with minimal irritation.”

Vitamin C Green Tea Enzyme Brightening Serum, Innisfree, ₹2,650

THE GENTLE ALTERNATIVE 

Can enzymes replace your acids? Not entirely. Think of them as your weekend exfoliators—gentle enough for regular use, powerful enough to make a visible difference. Enzymes are particularly suited to those whose skin is reactive or easily dehydrated by acids. “They’re perfect for anyone struggling with sensitivity or barrier damage. You can safely use them once or twice a week, depending on your skin type,” advices Dr Chhabra. 

However, the trick lies in what you pair them with. “Enzymes work beautifully with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, ceramides, and peptides,” Dr Chhabra explains. Banerjee adds a word of caution: “Avoid layering strong acids like AHAs or BHAs right after enzyme use—it can cause sensitivity.”

Matcha Enzyme Scrub, ClayCo., ₹799

BEYOND EXFOLIATION 

While enzymes are most famous for their polishing effect, their benefits go deeper than mere texture. “Certain enzymes like bromelain and papain have strong anti-inflammatory properties. They help reduce redness and irritation, support anti-ageing by improving texture and fine lines, and even manage mild acne by preventing clogged pores,” says Dr Chhabra.

Banerjee adds that with consistent use, enzymes “refine pores, improve luminosity, and restore a youthful clarity to the complexion”. That versatility is what’s turning enzymes into a cornerstone of modern skincare. Many experts now view them as essential pre-treatments—preparing the skin to better absorb antioxidants, peptides, and hydrators that follow. “By clearing the surface layer, enzymes make other actives far more effective. It’s like priming a canvas before painting—it ensures everything that comes after performs better,” says Niharika Jhunjhunwala, Founder and CEO, ClayCo. For most, the results appear quickly—a cleaner base, softer texture, and that post-facial luminosity that makes you skip foundation altogether.

Hydro Boost Enzyme Powder Wash, Tirtir, ₹1,157

REDEFINING RENEWAL 

Professional enzyme facials aren’t new to dermatology, but their viral resurgence is linked to how dramatic they look on camera. The famous “plaster-like” masks— used in treatments such as DMK Enzyme Therapy—harden over the skin, stimulating circulation and lymphatic drainage while the enzymes go to work. “The pulsing sensation you feel isn’t just a gimmick. It’s increased microcirculation—a sign that the skin’s natural processes are being activated,” Dr Chhabra says. 

Banerjee explains that in professional settings, “steam or gentle warmth is used to activate enzymatic action and enhance penetration.” She adds: “Stable, natural enzyme blends give safe, consistent results.” At home, milder versions of these treatments are thriving. From enzyme-rich cleansers to powder masks, the formulations are increasingly sophisticated. 

Enzymes have emerged as the sweet spot between technology and tenderness. “The next phase of enzyme skincare lies in bioengineered and encapsulated systems. These will activate only upon contact with the skin’s natural pH, combining with probiotics and peptides to support skin health and barrier repair,” predicts Dr Chhabra.

Lead image: Getty Images

Inside images: The brands

This article was originally published in the November 2025 print edition of Harper's Bazaar India
 

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