Are we killing our hair with kindness?

You’ve probably heard the phrase ‘the skinification of hair’ by now or noticed how many more hair products include ingredients you recognise from skincare. Maybe you’ve spotted a sharp rise in scalp products on the shelves, or all the different treatments going viral on TikTok (we see you, rosemary oil). Reader, as a curly girl, I knew exactly where this was going. In my most haircare-obsessed days, I had a seven-product routine that involved endless sectioning and combing, as well as overnight masks. Now, I use just three products and my hair has never been better. If you’ve dived head first into better haircare but your hair isn’t getting happier—or is actively getting worse—you’re not going crazy. There are many things that can go wrong when we’re, quite frankly, doing too much.

Product build-up 

Lavishing your hair in decadent products? According to Jennie Roberts, SheaMoisture’s afro hair specialist, "Using an excessive amount of hair products, such as conditioners or leave-in treatments, without properly rinsing them out can result in product build-up. This can make your hair appear dull and weighed down.’ Trichologist, Hannah Gaboardi adds that this build-up ‘can clog hair follicles and disrupt the natural balance of the scalp, potentially leading to scalp irritation, dandruff, or even hair loss." Far from ideal. 

Moisture overload vs protein overload 

Yes, because you can have too much of either, which disrupts their vital balance. Excessive conditioning can lead to a moisture overload, which Roberts says can "weigh down your hair and make it look lifeless and (like it’s) lacking volume". The extreme softness can leave hair feeling ‘mushy’, more susceptible to breakage and result in a loss of curl pattern. A protein overload is on the other end of the spectrum and can result in dry, brittle hair that’s prone to frizz, breakage and split ends. This vicious cycle can lead you to…you’ve guessed it, reach for more treatments. 

Scalp irritation 

It’s great that we’re paying a bit more attention to our scalps, but they’re very sensitive, especially if you’re introducing multiple new products in a short space of time without knowing how they’ll interact. "If your scalp feels itchy, sensitive or inflamed, it could be a result of overtreating," says Roberts, explaining that excessive product use can "irritate the scalp and disrupt its natural balance, leading to discomfort and potential scalp issues, such as dandruff or dermatitis". 

Stripping it right back 

The haircare industry is endlessly innovative and some of the many products available can provide real solutions to real problems. But sometimes, taking it back to basics is the most effective approach. "Simplicity in haircare reduces the risk of overloading your hair with harsh chemicals, which can lead to dryness and damage," says Gaboardi. "Embracing a straightforward routine nourishes the hair’s natural oils and protects the strands, which results in improved overall hair health, reduced frizz and enhanced shine," Gaboardi explains. Taking your routine right back to the non-negotiables leaves just two tasks: to cleanse and hydrate. Get those right for your hair and you’ll have a solid, simple routine.

This piece originally appeared in the Dec 2023/Jan 2024 print issue of Cosmopolitan UK.

Feature Credit: @_hairbypaula/Instagram

Image Credit: @_hairbypaula/Instagram