Iconic cafés from around the world frequented by legendary writers

A wise person once said that the pen is a writer’s greatest tool, but a wiser person said that it’s actually coffee. It’s a way of quietly romanticising the nonlinear process of writing—blocks and everything. And immune to the tech age, this unsaid rule continues its reign, unabashed by it all. Back then, writers stared out the window; now, they stare at multiple windows open on the laptop screen. There’s no guarantee that the words will flow, though the coffee must continue to. We went on a recce of our own, listing the iconic cafes that legendary literati frequented in the past. From Ernest Hemingway’s regular haunt in Paris, to Agatha Christie’s favourite spot in Syria, here’s where epic stories brewed over endless cuppas and conversations.

George Inn, London

Charles Dickens did not just visit and stay at this inn in London, but actually mentioned it in his novel, Little Dorrit. Dating from the 17th century, this medieval inn is the last surviving galleried one of its kind, with many others lost in the Second World War. Today, guests can indulge in a plethora of dishes at the venue, from battered halloumi to sirloin steak, clotted cream ice cream, and more. Although back when Dickens visited, it was a coffeehouse, which he described as “one of the best inns in England”, leaving us, decades later, with great expectations. 

New York Café, Budapest

As Hungarian author Jenő Heltai put it, “Despite its opulence, New York Café resolutely remained a bastion of democracy. Everyone was bewitched by it. Everyone knew everyone. Waiters served you before you had a chance to order. You automatically got your espresso, pot of ink, and writing paper.” The grandeur continues in the 21st century, with the cafe now termed the “most beautiful in the world”. From the 24-carat gold New York cappuccino to bagels, burgers, cheesecakes, and more, the café is a treat to the eyes and palate. 

Located at Anantara New York Palace Budapest, its reputation precedes it, with a visit here offering a retrospective of the Renaissance age in Italy, courtesy of the extravagant architecture and breathtaking interiors. It comes as no shocker then, that prominent Hungarian figures such as Endre Ady, Gyula Krúdy, Frigyes Karinthy, Ferenc Molnár, Sándor Márai, Zsigmond Móricz, Mihály Babits, Géza Gárdonyi, Dezső Kosztolányi, Gyula Illyés, and Sándor Weöres frequented the cafe. Adorned in frescoed ceilings, gilded stuccoes, and Venetian chandeliers, here’s where great minds thought alike and with good reason. 

This café, where many a stories were formed, enjoys a few interesting stories of its own, including the original legend of the key, which occurred on October 23, 1894. It is believed that Steuer Sándor, the first leaseholder of New York Coffee House, opened the venue’s doors to the public for the first time. This illustrious event was graced by all the leading lights of contemporary art and culture. The guests were in such high spirits that journalists ended up deciding that the coffee house would stay open all day and night. To make sure this would play out, renowned writer Molnár Ferenc threw the key to the door into the Danube. The rest, of course, is history, one that continues to be written. 

La Closerie des Lilas, Paris

A stone’s throw from his second apartment in Montparnasse, this was a home away from home for Hemingway. In his memoir A Moveable Feast, the celebrated author fondly references La Closerie, terming it the “nearest good cafe” and “one of the best cafes in Paris”. Legend has it that Ernest Hemingway often met F Scott Fitzgerald here and was well acquainted with the staff tool. “Hem” also cited this as his favourite place to write, where inspiration would often strike. In fact, Picasso and Oscar Wilde often visited La Closerie too. Ardent Hemingway readers will be pleased to know that they can sit at his go-to table and even scribble there! To spot it, simply look out for a brass plaque engraved with the writer’s name. And while there, bring your copy of The Old Man And The Sea and indulge in sea urchin, a treat off the cheese trolley, or even profiteroles. 

The Baron Hotel Cafe/Bar, Syria

An esteemed and historic hotel in the Middle East, established in the late 19th century, The Baron Hotel has witnessed a range of famous writers at its cafe and bar over the years—including Agatha Christie, who wrote parts of Murder on the Orient Express in the hotel itself. TE Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) frequented it often, famously leaving a bar bill unpaid. Meanwhile, Christie stayed at The Baron on several occasions while travelling to join her husband, Max Mallowan, during his archaeological expeditions. In fact, this was Syria's first hotel built using a contemporary western pattern, incorporating a central heating system and warm bath, and until recently, the oldest hotel still operating, with the establishment under family ownership. As seen in Agatha Christie’s thrilling detective novel, passengers from Baghdad to Istanbul would typically make a pit-stop at Aleppo to board the Istanbul-bound Taurus Express. A glimpse of the hotel’s visitor book even has the author’s signature, the perfect memento.

The Unicorn Inn, Malven, The United Kingdom

You probably remember that vintage lamppost from The Chronicles of Narnia: The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe. Yes, the one where Lucy first meets Mr Tumnus in the magical, snow-covered forest. Turns out, the inspiration for this came from author CS Lewis’ time spent in Malvern, where he frequently embarked on walks with fellow writer JRR Tolkien, across the Malvern Hills. If you’re visiting, don’t miss the blue plaque, which commemorates the writer duo. 

Post the stroll, the two would often visit The Unicorn Inn for replenishment. One such snowy evening, as Lewis was leaving the Unicorn, a glimpse of a Malvern gas lamp at Belle Vue Terrace ignited his creative inspiration. This moment is believed to have directly influenced his depiction of the enchantingly fantastical Narnian wood. This solitary gas lamp post, amidst the snow, went on to feature in the film as well. It is said that Lewis viewed the lamp post as a captivating opening line or scene for a book. Safe to say, he was right. 

Lead image: Getty Images
 

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