Why Meenakari remains one of India's most exquisite art forms

Have you ever turned over a piece of heirloom jewellery and found a hidden world of colour just waiting for you? A burst of ruby red, a delicate swirl of turquoise and emerald, or a soft floral motif that feels almost like a secret only you’re meant to know. That’s the magic of Meenakari. The ancient art of Meenakari isn’t about what meets the eye; it’s the hidden story beneath, the treasure waiting to be discovered by those who truly appreciate it. In a world of bold statements and showy designs, Meenakari is a subtle, yet powerful reminder that beauty isn’t just cherished for the world to see, but for the wearer’s own delight.

Often tucked away in the delicate casing of jewellery, Meenakari may not cater to those chasing fleeting trends but it beckons to those with an eye for the timeless. And this is exactly what Sunita Shekhawat, the passionate force behind the Museum of Meenakari Heritage (MOMH) in Jaipur, seeks to champion. We spoke to Shekhawat to uncover the rich history, intricate techniques, and cultural significance of Meenakari, and how its legacy continues to shine brightly, even in today’s algorithm-led world.

A tale of colour and craft

The word Meenakari—derived from the Persian mīnā (paradise) and kārī (work on an object)—translates poetically to “placing paradise on an object.” Though its origins trace back to the ancient Persian empires, it was in Safavid Iran that the art form truly blossomed, before finding a renewed life in Mughal India.

Emperor Akbar, a connoisseur of fine art, introduced Meenakari into his imperial ateliers, commissioning it for thrones, jewellery, and ceremonial objects. But it was under Raja Man Singh’s patronage that Meenakars (master enamellers) were invited to Jaipur, laying the foundation for a legacy that has now endured for centuries.

Utility and artistry: Two sides of the same coin

“Meenakari used to be a perfect balancing act between utilitarian and aesthetic considerations,” explains Shekhawat. “Mainly, the enamel gave strength to the jewellery, protecting it from wear, and allowed the smiths to use gold more economically without compromising on its richness. Some of the oldest pieces were even reversible: plain gold on one side, intricate enamel work on the other, making them versatile for various occasions. Over time, a technical operation, initially performed to enhance practicality, was transformed into a celebrated art form, giving jewellery an expressive language of colour, detail, and narrative.”

The enamel doubled as a protective shield, ensuring the jewellery could withstand wear while also allowing craftsmen to use less gold, yet still achieve the opulence and depth the metal is known for. In other words, Meenakari was never only ornamental, but what began as a technical solution quickly evolved into something far more poetic.

Technique as alchemy

If Kundan is the structure, Meenakari is the soul that sets jewellery aglow with molten hues. The process is as intricate as it is beautiful.

“At our atelier, making a Meenakari piece is the most important step of marrying craft with storytelling,” Shekhawat shares. “It begins with a strong gold framework—literally thin strips of gold being bent and coiled to provide a solid base. Then comes the fine engraving, where nature or architectural motifs are etched onto it by hand. After that, the enamelist applies layers of coloured glass into those engravings. Each colour is applied and kiln-fired separately to build up depth, brilliance, and clarity. The heat fuses the glass to the metal, giving it that glassy glow that will never be dimmed. It is not just a technical process; it is pure alchemy combined with patience and storytelling in metal and colour.”

Royal favours and everyday adornments

Although Meenakari is most often associated with opulent, courtly pieces, its influence has also permeated everyday life in India. “While Meenakari thrived under patronage in Rajasthan and the Mughal courts as a symbol of luxury, it wasn’t confined to palaces alone,” Shekhawat points out. “Over time, it found its way into daily life and rituals too, seen in bridal jewellery, festive adornments, and even everyday objects like paandans, mirrors, and decorative boxes.”

A tapestry of regional voices

One of Meenakari’s most enchanting aspects is its regional dialects. Its visual language has been shaped by geography, patronage, and local preferences. In Jaipur, Meenakari art is bold, characterised by saturated tones, particularly ruby red, and features Champlevé-style enamel. Bikaner has its own style of delicate Meenakari enamel work with an almost translucent refinement, and Lucknow is known for subtle whites on silver, and the results are ethereal to say the least. “Each region gave the same craft a very distinct language of its own,” Shekhawat notes.

The path ahead

The future of Meenakari lies at the delicate crossroads of preservation and innovation. With designers like Shekhawat honouring its core while inviting younger generations to experience it anew, this ancient art form continues to breathe, shimmer, and evolve.

Meenakari is not just enamel on gold. It is a poem in glass, a memory in flame. A whisper of paradise etched onto metal and brought to life with colour, history, and human hands.

 

All images: Museum of Meenakari Heritage, Jaipur/Longform

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