This embroidered denim edit is the unexpected fusion we didn't know we needed

Denim and embroidery—two words that rarely find themselves in the same sentence, let alone on the same garment. But with The Kadai Chronicles, couturier Mayyur Girotra and fashion consultant Diya Mehta Jatia are rewriting the rules of traditional Indian craftsmanship.

A tale of craftsmanship reimagined

Think washed denim adorned with intricate zardozi, velvet jackets with archival Jaisalmer motifs, and lehenga skirts light as air but bold in colour. The collection is a bridge between old and new, blending heirloom embroidery techniques with contemporary silhouettes that resonate with today’s wearer.

For Girotra, who has always been drawn to the intricacies of heritage Indian craftsmanship, the idea of fusing it with denim was both challenging and exhilarating. “We wanted to make embroidery more wearable beyond just traditional ensembles,” he explains. “Denim was the perfect canvas—it’s modern, durable, and effortlessly cool. And when combined with zardozi, the result is something truly unique.”

But beyond its aesthetic appeal, this collection is also a cultural statement—one that proves Indian embroidery isn’t limited to festive or bridal wear. Instead, it has the potential to be as versatile and globally relevant as any luxury fabric.

Denim meets heritage

The seed of the collection was planted when Diya Mehta Jatia—a long-time patron of Girotra’s work—was drawn to his ability to balance bold colour with exquisite embellishment. Having previously seen his multi-colour embroidery on denim at a Pride showcase in New York, she envisioned an entire line that celebrated Indian craft in an everyday-wearable form.

“When I saw Mayyur’s embroidered denim for Pride, I instantly thought—this needs to be explored further,” says Mehta-Jatia. “It was unexpected, yet so naturally beautiful. The embroidery felt like it belonged on denim.”

Together, they embarked on a journey of experimentation, working with traditional artisans to adapt intricate embroidery styles for a completely different textile. Unlike silk, velvet, or chiffon—denim has its own unique challenges. It’s stiffer, heavier, and more textured, which meant the embroidery techniques had to be re-engineered to work with the fabric’s natural properties. The result? Denim skirts, structured crop tops, embroidered jackets, and even lehengas that feel as opulent as traditional couture but fit seamlessly into contemporary wardrobes.

“The richness of zardozi against washed denim created a contrast that felt cultural yet modern,” explains Girotra. “We realised it wasn’t just about aesthetics—it was about redefining how we experience Indian embroidery.”

Beyond occasionwear: Styling The Kadai Chronicles

One of the collection’s biggest wins is its versatility. While Indian embroidery is often associated with occasionwear, this collection breaks that mold—making it possible to wear artisanal craft beyond weddings and festive gatherings.

“These pieces can be styled in multiple ways,” says Girotra. “You can underdress a denim lehenga with a white shirt for a casual-chic dinner or elevate an embroidered jacket with bold jewelry for a sangeet or after-party.”

For destination weddings, where guests want to pack light without compromising on style, this collection is a game-changer. “Denim doesn’t wrinkle the way silks and organzas do,” Jatia points out. “That makes these pieces ideal for travel—you can just pull them out of your suitcase and they’re ready to wear.”

Even beyond traditional event styling, the duo envisions these statement pieces becoming wardrobe staples. An embroidered denim crop top can be paired with tailored trousers for a power dressing moment, while a heavily embroidered denim jacket can be thrown over a simple dress for effortless glam.

A sustainable approach to craft

At its core, The Kadai Chronicles isn’t just about fashion—it’s about longevity. The collection aligns with Girotra’s sustainability ethos, which champions craftsmanship over fast fashion. “These are investment pieces,” says Jatia. “Clothing that you’ll re-wear in different ways, season after season. It’s all about re-styling rather than discarding.” By reinterpreting traditional embroidery on a durable fabric like denim, the collection encourages a slow fashion mindset—one where heritage techniques are preserved, celebrated, and integrated into daily life, rather than confined to heirloom trunks. For Girotra, this shift is essential for the future of Indian couture. “If we want to keep these art forms alive, we need to make them relevant,” he says. “That means creating pieces that people actually want to wear, over and over again.”

A new era of Indian craft

At a time when Indian designers are pushing the boundaries of couture, The Kadai Chronicles is a refreshing and much-needed experiment. It proves that heritage craftsmanship isn’t just about nostalgia—it’s about evolution. By making embroidery accessible beyond bridal lehengas and sherwanis, Girotra and Jatia are ensuring that Indian craft isn’t just preserved—it’s lived in, every day. This is more than just fashion; it’s a cultural shift—one where handcrafted techniques are seamlessly woven into the global fashion narrative.The 50-piece collection, which includes customizable options through one-on-one atelier sessions, is now available at Mayyur Girotra’s international boutiques and will soon be available online.

So, whether you’re looking to invest in a piece of heritage or simply want to explore a fresh take on embroidery, The Kadai Chronicles offers a masterclass in blending tradition with contemporary cool.

 

All images: Mayyur Girotra

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