The rise and rise of alternative leather in India

From your favourite pair of sneakers, designer handbags, and chic jackets, to something as rudimentary as belts, it’s impossible to imagine the world of fashion without leather. The material has been a ubiquitous part of our wardrobes since millennia—the usage of leather dates back to 7,000 years. Closer home, too, leather finds a mention in the Vedas—it was used to make water-carrying saddle bags—but it was only during the colonial era that the country’s leather industry find a footing. Today, the Indian leather industry accounts for around 13 per cent of the world's leather production of hides and skins. But, it all comes at a cost. “The leather sector is well known for its effluent problems”, noted a 2007 report by the Indian Institute of Technology, Kanpur. “A significant part of the chemical used in the leather processing is not actually absorbed in the process but is discharged into the environment".

With the increased focus on not only the detrimental effects of leather production on the environment but also its ethics—even though leather is a by-product made from the hides of dead animals, it contributes to the cycle of animal cruelty—there has been a search since years for a substitute. 

What exactly is vegan leather?

Enter: vegan leather. Touted as the more eco-friendly alternative to animal leather, vegan leather is most commonly made from two different plastic polymers—polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), according to PETA. According to a 2021 report, Asia-Pacific was the third largest consumer of bio-based leather in 2020, and this is only projected to grow. 

Is vegan leather just an example of greenwashing? 

While attempts by brands to adopt alternative leather is impressive—Nanushka and Stella McCartney are a couple of the few luxury labels that promote and use vegan leather—the fashion industry is notorious for greenwashing. Which begs the question—is vegan leather actually better than the real thing? Anjana Arjun, founder of Sarjaa, a premium handbag brand that makes its line of bags from pineapple, apple, and cactus leather, explains, “While vegan leather doesn’t use animal products in its production, it does come with a threat of microplastic pollution. This is due to large amounts of natural resources and chemicals used to produce ‘faux’ leather material,” she says.

Vegan leather v/s fruit leather 

If plastic can also be made from plant-based sources like pineapple leaves, mango or apple peels, and even mulberry barks, it brings us to the question: Is fruit leather different from vegan leather, and which one is better? It’s important to note that all fruit leather is vegan but not all vegan leather is derived from plant-based sources. Zuzana Gombosova, co-founder and director of Malai, an Indian brand that makes accessories out of coconut leather, elaborates, “Vegan leather is a pretty vague term. Originally, it would describe faux leather materials made from PU or PVC. Most of the leather alternatives these days are still made from these plastics—even the ones claiming to be ecologically friendly, unfortunately.” 

Global brands that use fruit leather

The usage of fruit leather in bags and shoes is not a novel concept globally—many luxury brands have adopted the alternative wholeheartedly. Hermes has a line that uses mushroom-derived leather called Sylviana; Chloé used apple-based leather by an Italian company called Frumat for its line of mini bags and pouches called See by Chloé; and Chanel uses Pinatex, which is a pineapple-based leather in its handbags. 

Growing popularity of plant-based leather in India 

Sarjaa and Malai are just two in a long string of Indian brands that are incorporating fruit leather in their products. Paio, a cruelty-free vegan footwear brand approved by PETA, uses a mix of hemp, cotton, and coconut leather in addition to faux leather to craft its offerings. And given how conversation around sustainability has reached a fever pitch, Indian consumers, who are more aware than ever before about responsible fashion, are more than willing to add fruit leather to their wardrobe. Shweta Nimkar, founder of Paio, says there is an increase in Indians reconsidering their purchase decisions, especially in the post-pandemic era. “They are conscious of their consumption patterns and are also encouraged to adopt eco-friendly alternatives that provide longevity. Adopting plant-based consumption is something that has been on the rise off-late bearing in mind the environmental predicament that’s already rising alarmingly.”

Arjun says that while there is definitely an audience for ethically-sourced sustainable accessories, there is still a reluctance to pay a premium for it. “People are still unaware that hand-made, sustainable products are pricier than non-sustainable products, since the fruit leathers are not mass-produced like leather or chemically-treated vegan leather,” she says. Gombosova concurs, “There is an expectation that everything should be mass produced and cheap, but very often people forget that in order to do this, an enormous effort, investment, and time is needed to make a product that democratic.” At Malai he uses a novel biocomposite to make the handbags—the process originates from Philippines where the material is called ‘Nata de Coco’ or cream of coconut. 

The future of sustainable fashion in India 

While there is still a long way to go before responsible fashion becomes mainstream in the country, this is surely a start. And Arjun says that given the current climate crisis, there’s no other option. “In the future, I don’t think fashion has a choice but to be more sustainable. I think one of the most damaging factors in the fashion industry is fast fashion and the leather industry, which is highly polluting. Upcycling and recycling methods, zero-waste methods, and organic and sustainable practices of deriving a final slow-fashion product is clearly the way to go in the future. And of course, transparency is key,” she wraps up. 

Keep in mind that plant-based leather is generally more eco-friendly than vegan leather, so it’s essential to look into what kind of leather the brand is using, and where it is coming from. Remember that sustainable consumerism is not black and white—it’s not as simple as buying vegan leather over real leather, or picking fruit leather over the plastic-derived one. Whatever you choose, as long as you are aware of the environmental impact of your purchase, and make an informed decision based on that fact, you’re already on your way to being a responsible consumer. 

Lead image: Tara Sutaria/Instagram