Manish Malhotra on his two loves–films and fashion, and their future

The love affair between fashion, film, and Manish Malhotra has only grown to blossom over the years. From styling the leading ladies of Bollywood in movies, to designing bridal lehengas for them, the couturier has been the man behind some of the most iconic looks in the Indian film industry—Urmila Matondkar in Rangeela, Madhuri Dixit and Karisma Kapoor in Dil Toh Paagal Hai, Kareena Kapoor in Kabhi Khushi Kabhi Gham, Deepika Padukone in Yeh Jawaani Hai Diwani, to name a few. And it is not just the women who are fascinated by Manish Malhotra’s designs, it’s the men too! 

In an interview with Harper’s Bazaar India, the designer talks about the past that saw him emerge from the new kid on the block to become a force to reckon with. Currently, he continues to scale new heights in all things fashion. In the future, it's only natural that we will see him work with just as much enthusiasm, if not more, like his very first day on set. 

The Rangeela Rainbow  

The year was 1995. A young girl of 21 danced her heart out in a film titled Rangeela as she found herself caught between the affection from a film star and her best friend, the roadside romeo. Along with the music that saw the world in awe of the magic composed by A.R. Rahman, the Ram Gopal Varma film was way ahead of its time as it saw Manish Malhotra introduce the concept of styling with costume design. Such was the impact and popularity of the fashion trends that emerged out of the movie that the Filmfare Awards introduced an awards category for costume design, with Manish Malhotra being the first recipient. 

The modern and minimal, yet, impactful costume styling on Urmila had a lasting impact—be it the chiffon sarees in “Hai Rama," the tangerine skater dress, the printed bustier and skirt in "Tanha Tanha," pleated skirts and boyfriend shorts in "Rangeela Re", or the Chaplinesque look in "Kya Kare Kya Na Kare." Her casual style—from co-ord sets, skater dresses, leotards with scarves, to oversized shirts, high-waist jeans with figure-hugging tees, cycling shorts and wool berets remained the main talking points of the film, and continue to stay in people’s heart even today. 

“Every look created for Rangeela 30 years ago is seeing its resurgence this year as part of the Y2K fashion trend,” adds Malhotra, whose films prior to this were Waqt Hamara Hai, Gumrah and Yeh Dillagi.

Changing his fashion game as films evolved  

 

The future, like the present and past, will have fluctuating trends. And the most beautiful part about fashion in the film industry is that it's super dynamic, plus, there's a vast scope to create and innovate. Besides being such an integral part of the film industry and having given the world of cinema a host of iconic looks over close to 30 years, Malhotra has “always believed that fashion and films go hand-in-hand, so conjointly, fashion and cinema have evolved in a way that clothes stay true to character in order to justify the role and the scene at play.”   

Knowing that it isn’t just the film but the costumes in it that also have a large fan following around the world, the 55-year-old says, “The audience tends to relate more to the story when the fashion aligns with the character, role and script. Cinema, in general, is a reflection of reality. People take particular pride in flaunting a dress worn on-screen by celebrities because somewhere they related to that character, or their fashion sense that matches theirs.” 

Always being a trendsetter  

 

Work doesn’t feel like work when you love what you do. The same holds true for Manish Malhotra, a name synonymous with fashion in films, who continues to raise the bar. So what keeps him motivated? “My passion and perseverance keep me going; maybe that is what has not changed for the longest time and, of course, my undying love for fashion and films.” Embracing technological developments in fashion has also helped him stay ahead of the game.

“There are constant developments in this space, whether virtual stores or influencers. It's just a matter of time before we see some of the most disruptive and innovative fashion and digital innovations in the years to come.” That said, Malhotra knows the importance of the unsung heroes behind his many designs. “Moreover, in a growing technology-run and globalised world, people forget traditional crafts and move towards innovation. Due to this, Indian artisans and their art are losing their grip. Consequently, we have designed timeless and seasonless collections that meet the requirements of the new-age customers and simultaneously preserve and protect the artisan's livelihoods.” 

His organization, Manish Malhotra World has helped the Mijwan Welfare Society empower the women artisans’ community by skilling and creating work opportunities across India. In commemoration of their 10-year anniversary, Manish Malhotra curated a special couture collection inspired by the exquisite craft of Chikankari back in July. The event—Mijwan Fashion Show 2022 witnessed Bollywood power couple Ranveer Singh and Deepika Padukone turn show-stoppers. 

The best is yet to come 
The relentless pursuit of chasing excellence has gotten Manish Malhotra to where he is today. Far from having a feeling of accomplishment, Malhotra gives us a glimpse of what’s in store. “My next move is global expansion. I plan on taking these ventures (designer studios, his virtual store, Manish Malhotra Beauty, Manish Malhotra Jewellery) to newer heights. It's all a work in progress. So you'll have to keep up to see what's next. I shall be making a directorial debut, so witnessing my childhood dream turn into reality is something I am really looking forward to. As a result, I am working on multiple 'nexts' simultaneously.” 

Quickbyte with Manish Malhotra 

What do you enjoy more, films or the ramp?  
Both are equal in my eyes. Films have fuelled my passion for fashion. I am grateful to blur the lines between cinema and couture. 

An actor/actress who you simply love styling  
I've been privileged to dress an entire generation of Bollywood actors and their progeny on and off-the-screen, and it's been lovely styling all of them. Every experience is unique and different and I treasure every moment with them. 

A celebrity who you wish you got the chance to style (from past and present)  
I would love to style Meryl Streep someday. 

Which has been your favourite decade?    
I get very nostalgic about the 50s and 60s because I loved that time. I found it fascinating, from the music, to the clothes, to all the actors and actresses. Films like Mughal-E-Asam, Pakeezah, and actresses like Meena Kumari and Madhubala had such a long-lasting impact not just in the world of cinema, but everywhere else from fashion to music. 

One thing about Bollywood fashion that you don't enjoy and would like to change?  
The 'airport look' trend. 

Feature image: boundlessbollywood, mzaalo, urmimatondkar (Urmila Matondkar
fan page) / Instagram