Inspired by true events—where our favourite designers find their creative spark

Fashion has long been a dialogue between past and present, memory and innovation. For some designers, inspiration lies in the grandeur of historic archives—like Alexander McQueen’s reverence for his Scottish heritage—or in the streets, where raw, unfiltered culture seeps into their work, much like Virgil Abloh’s street-meets-luxury aesthetic. Others find their muse in nature, like Christian Dior, whose love for flowers shaped his signature silhouettes. In India, where craftsmanship and storytelling are deeply intertwined, inspiration often emerges from personal history, cultural legacies, and artistic disciplines beyond fashion. Here, five of India’s most celebrated designers—Amit Aggarwal, Anita Dongre, Kunal Rawal, Payal Khandwala, and Shantanu & Nikhil Mehra—pull back the curtain on the places, people, and philosophies that fuel their creative process.

Amit Aggarwal: the geometry of nature

For Amit Aggarwal, inspiration lies in the tessellations of nature. “Whether it’s the geometry of a leaf or the fluidity of water, nature offers a perfect balance of harmony and chaos,” he shares. The way nature continually evolves is a reminder to Aggarwal to embrace imperfection and innovation.

His early influences stem from home—his father, an engineer, unbeknown to him, introduced him to structure and precision, while his mother’s love for textiles shaped his appreciation for fashion. “Her wedding sari, with its intricate mustard yellow embroidery, remains a vivid memory,” he recalls. But beyond family, the artisans he works with are his great muses.
Travel, too, is a catalyst. A trip to Sri Lanka and an encounter with architect Geoffrey Bawa’s work reinforced his love for structure. “Many of our creations incorporate structural elements and geometric patterns, showcasing our deep respect for architecture and design.”

When facing creative blocks, Aggarwal revisits past collections—not to replicate them, but to analyse what worked and why. His love for science fiction is also evident in his inspirations. “The movie Arrival explores the boundaries of language and perception, something that fascinates me. Similarly, Mrinalini Mukherjee’s sculptures and Anish Kapoor’s manipulation of space challenge our experience of art.”

At his core, Aggarwal sees fashion as a dialogue. “While my inspirations are deeply personal, I strive to translate them into forms that evoke a universal connection—whether through the extremist behaviour of a couture piece or the fluidity of a pret separate.”

Anita Dongre: the soul of Jaipur and nature’s harmony

Anita Dongre finds inspiration rooted in her childhood summers spent in Jaipur. “It was during these visits that I became drawn to the unique elements of the city—its crafts, architecture, prints, textures, and colours,” she shares. “One can draw so much inspiration from India. The myriad of ideas simply mesmerises me.”

Her mother, who stitched clothes for her and her sister, was her first influence. For Dongre, the key to universal appeal is designing for a self-assured woman. “Through my journey of taking Indian craftsmanship to the world, the design philosophy has been shaped around one muse—a woman who feels empowered and comfortable in her own skin. The idea of this muse helps create pieces that reinterpret Indian crafts in a contemporary way, which is my signature aesthetic.” 

Nature, too, plays a pivotal role. “It is where I seek rest but also the drive to be creative,” she says. “During my downtime, I am inspired by how different elements of nature exist in harmony. This powerful force is captured in our upcoming SS25 bridal collection.”

A strong believer in pausing to recalibrate, Dongre moved her office to the outskirts of Mumbai, surrounded by greenery. “It energises me and allows my team to think better.” She finds wisdom in literature as well—Swami Parthasarathy’s Vedanta Treatise continues to influence her work. “He translates the Vedas for modern living with simplicity and practicality.”

Kunal Rawal: the intersection of heritage and modernity

For Kunal Rawal, inspiration lies in cultural enclaves and hidden hubs of craftsmanship. “I love exploring the crevices of cultural significance, unearthing how past creative trends were shaped by history and how they transcend into modern relevance,” he says. Bridging personal inspiration with universal resonance, for him, is about challenging norms and reviving lost cultural trends in a way that feels fresh yet deeply familiar. “Authenticity meets relevance when you rediscover traditions and reinterpret them for today’s audience.”

His father was his first mentor. “Watching him interact with fabrics and curate his own wardrobe deeply influenced my appreciation for textures, colours, and craftsmanship.” 

His city influences his work, too. “For our last Couture Week collection, we created a Mumbai Art Deco-inspired outfit, capturing the city’s architectural essence.” Varanasi, with its rich heritage, vibrant colours, and intricate craftsmanship, has also left a lasting imprint. “Its spirit continues to inspire many of my designs.”

When faced with a creative block, he unwinds with films and video games. “Taking a step back helps refresh my mind and allows inspiration to flow naturally.”

Payal Khandwala: the balance between emotion and method

What inspires Payal Khandwala is a tug-of-war between two forces—colour and shape. Having painted all her life, she sees colour as an emotional playground, while shape and form are a more methodical challenge. “It’s even more of a challenge to create a shape that is also practical to wear,” she explains. “But they are so different. One is emotional, and the other methodical. The tension between the two is the place I always go back to.”

When it comes to muses, Khandwala finds creative sparks in unexpected places. “It can be how a chef plates his meal to how someone plays the cello, an origami artist, or an architect,” she says. “It’s the way they approach their craft that has shaped my design philosophy.” During creative blocks, Khandwala turns to unrelated passions—Lego, playing the piano, reading about the human brain. “No knowledge is ever wasted; it always finds a way into your work, even if it is seemingly unrelated.”

Travel also subtly informs her work. From the colours of a desert against the sky to an old carpet in a flea market, she is drawn to moments of aesthetic harmony. “My travels to Japan inspire me continuously in my work. It’s not always literal, but subliminally those collective moments shape my work tremendously.”

Books and films leave an impression, too. Rohinton Mistry’s A Fine Balance reminds her of the delicate push and pull between form and function, while Tarsem Singh’s The Fall stands out for its vivid frames. “With art, it would be Egon Schiele’s exquisite line drawings and Mark Rothko’s effortless play with colour theory and its relationship with emotions.”

Ultimately, Khandwala designs for herself. “I make only the clothes I would wear,” she says. “The women who respond to my designs are not that different from me. They’re creative, free-spirited, and know what they want.”

Shantanu & Nikhil Mehra: the sartorial nostalgia of India

Shantanu & Nikhil Mehra see Rajasthan as a perennial source of inspiration. “It holds the sartorial nostalgia of India—a land where kings and maharajas once defined grandeur,” they explain.

By anchoring designs in their house codes yet allowing emotions to dictate unexpected details, they create collections that feel both personal and widely resonant. Rather than individual muses, they draw from grand historical shifts—the Renaissance, World War II, the corsetry of the 1890s. “These moments in fashion and history influence us far more than any one person.”

Travel is a recurring muse, too. “It’s often the smallest details—a corner in an old church, the textures of a vintage store, or the ambiance of a tucked-away café– that leave the biggest impact.” Their aesthetic is also shaped by black-and-white films and wartime narratives. “World War II films have profoundly impacted our creative vision.”

When creative blocks hit, they step away. “Playing golf, embracing the mundane, and allowing ourselves to disconnect often leads us back to inspiration.”

Whether drawn to the geometry of nature, the opulence of Rajasthan, or the stories hidden within architecture and history, these designers prove that inspiration is everywhere—it just depends on how you see it.
 

Feature image credit: Elevate Promotions, PR Pundit, Tandem Communications, and Shantanu & Nikhil

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