From Sabyasachi to Masaba: here's why designers are looking to jewellery

Once an accessory to complement an outfit, jewellery is now becoming the main event for many designers. Across India and globally, the lines between fashion and fine jewellery are blurring, with designers expanding their creative vision into bijoux. From Masaba Gupta’s playful yet bold designs to Sabyasachi’s opulent heritage-inspired collections, jewellery is emerging as the next big frontier for high and luxury fashion labels.
 

Fashion designers have long flirted with jewellery, incorporating statement pieces into their runway presentations. However, in recent years, the shift has become more intentional. Sabyasachi, known for his regal bridalwear, ventured into jewellery with a line that mirrors his maximalist aesthetic– vintage polki, uncut diamonds, and rich enamelling inspired by India's royal history. He was actually the first Indian designer to crack the jewellery code– with each decadent piece transporting the wearer back to old Calcutta. A bohemian mix of tourmalines, pigeon blood Burmese rubies, Zambian emeralds and other stones made their way into chokers, earrings, necklaces, rings and stacked bangles among others in styles ranging from art deco to deconstructed jadau and names ranging from ‘The Alipore Necklace’ to ‘The Baghbazar Suite’, it came as no surprise when local and global audiences were in awe. Similarly, Manish Malhotra, synonymous with Bollywood glamour, has expanded into fine jewellery with a collection that fuses contemporary silhouettes with classic Indian craftsmanship.

Masaba Gupta, whose eponymous label is celebrated for its bold prints and experimental designs, has taken a different route. Her jewellery collections, like her clothing, are an extension of her personality– quirky, unconventional, and statement-making. “I think the idea or the inspiration behind expanding into jewellery was the fact that I noticed a very steady shift in the way the new woman of India is dressing. I don’t think that just her style has changed in terms of clothing, but it’s also become a lot bolder when it comes to jewels of her choice,” she explains​. Much like her clothes, this new 46-piece fine jewellery collection incorporates Gupta's signature style with a unique amalgamation of homegrown motifs and modern wearability. The neckpieces range from traditional haars to modern chokers and haslis, we also see elevated ear stacks, and bracelets adorned with meaningful affirmations. 

And this shift isn’t all that recent. Globally, luxury houses such as Louis Vuitton, Valentino, and Balmain have long recognized the power of jewellery, seamlessly integrating it into their brand portfolios. Fine and demi-fine jewellery offer these brands a lucrative opportunity– pieces hold their value, cater to a wider audience, and allow customers to buy into the brand at different price points. The shift isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s a strategic business move.

India’s jewellery market, deeply entrenched in tradition yet evolving with modern sensibilities, is the perfect playground for this transition. The demand for high-quality, fashion-forward jewellery is rising, driven by consumers who want everyday investment pieces that go beyond bridal trousseaus. Brands like Outhouse are tapping into this market— with their affordable luxury pieces that feature a contemporary design without feeling commercial. “I think jewellery has become experience-driven. It’s an experience that women want to have on an everyday basis,” Masaba says. “As the world opens up to the concept of fine jewellery in a braver and more provocative manner, we as a brand are just following the lead of a consumer that has been asking for a very brave, cool, modern product– but that’s also a smart investment piece”​. 

Beyond commerce, jewellery allows designers to push creative boundaries. The recent collaboration between MISHO Designs and the Princess Diya Kumari Foundation is a testament to this. Known for her sculptural, modernist jewellery, Suhani Parekh of Misho teamed up with the Jaipur royal to create a high jewellery collection that bridges contemporary design with Rajputana heritage. “Jaipur gave me so much as I conceived and worked on this collection. I wanted to give back to the city and the beautiful people that inspired me and helped bring my design vision to life,” Parekh shares​.

For Gauravi Kumari, this collaboration also highlighted the importance of preserving Jaipur’s artistic traditions. “While in Jaipur, it’s impossible not to be inspired by the art, architecture, and craft heritage that is so special to this region. At PDKF, our work is focused on ensuring the traditional handicrafts of this area– those crafts which make Jaipur so special– do not fade away. Working with Misho, a brand so committed to weaving narratives into their creations, has been exciting. It’s incredible to see how they’ve synthesized the stories of Jaipur and the City Palace into every piece,” she says​.

The tactile nature of jewellery– its craftsmanship, materials, and intricate detailing– offers designers an exciting new medium to explore. For fashion houses built on a strong aesthetic language, it’s a way to extend their artistic vision beyond fabric and into metal, gemstones, and gold. “Today, you’re no longer selling a product in isolation. Jewellery is just an expansion of that art, that vision, and a visual mood board,” Masaba says​.

The rise of designer jewellery isn’t just a trend– it’s a cultural shift, cemented by the A-list clientele that can’t get enough of these statement pieces. Sabyasachi’s intricate creations have transcended their bridal origins, finding a place on the global stage. Priyanka Chopra Jonas, Oprah Winfrey, and even Rihanna have been spotted in his opulent pieces. Meanwhile, the likes of Deepika Padukone, Alia Bhatt, and Anushka Sharma have turned to his jewellery to elevate their red-carpet looks. 

Manish Malhotra has extended the same magic to his fine jewellery line– Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Jenner, and even Gigi Hadid have gravitated toward his diamond-encrusted chokers and cascading earrings– pieces that exude old-world glamour with a distinctly contemporary edge. Whether sparkling on international red carpets or making a statement at high-profile weddings, these creations are redefining Indian jewellery as a powerful style statement.

As high-fashion brands continue to diversify, jewellery is poised to become a permanent fixture in their collections. What was once a niche category reserved for luxury maisons or traditional jewellers is now a crucial extension of a designer’s brand DNA. With India’s rich history of jewellery craftsmanship and a growing appetite for non-traditional, designer-led pieces, the convergence of fashion and jewellery is only set to intensify. 

For consumers, this means more choices, more creativity, and more ways to express personal style through jewellery. Whether it’s a bold Masaba necklace, a regal Sabyasachi polki set, or a sculptural Misho x Gauravi Kumari piece, jewellery is no longer just an accessory—it’s the new fashion statement.

Feature image: House of Masaba

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