Milan Fashion Week FW25: The moments that stole the spotlight

The next destination for fashion week’s jet-setting crowd has arrived—buongiorno, Milan! With unstoppable momentum, the city welcomes the industry’s finest. While the excitement is always a given, this season carries an extra spark of anticipation, fueled by a few notable runway exits. 

Renowned for its effortless blend of Italian craftsmanship and cutting-edge creativity, Milan Fashion Week unveils the season’s most compelling narratives in ready-to-wear and haute couture. Iconic houses like Prada, Gucci, Maison Margiela, Roberto Cavalli and Versace take center stage alongside a dynamic new wave of emerging designers, redefining the future of fashion. In a city where style is second nature, the air is electric—historic palazzos exude old-world grandeur, while sleek, industrial show spaces set the stage for modern innovation, making every moment a feast for the fashion-obsessed.

Gucci: A team effort 
Gucci's Fall/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, served as a nostalgic throwback and homage to the brand's storied past, bringing elements from the 1960s through the 1990s. In the wake of Sabato De Sarno's recent departure, the in-house design team took the reins, presenting a lineup that underscores Gucci's enduring aesthetic.

Channeling the spirit of the 1960s, the collection reimagines mod silhouettes with structured shifts, bold buttons, and chic front pockets, elevated by jaunty caps and silk scarves. Honouring the 50th anniversary of the interlocking ‘G’ and the 70th of the iconic Horsebit, these emblems take center stage—gracing halter necks, crisp collars, and cinched waists, while the Horsebit 1955 bag is reinterpreted with contemporary flair. Statement accessories define the look, from sculptural gold pendants and chokers to refined box purses and playful fuzzy textures. A final touch? Vivid tights that inject a dash of Gucci’s signature audacity into everyday dressing.

Onitsuka Tiger: Urban refinement
Under a star-lit runway, Onitsuka Tiger’s showcase unfolded with charm and style. Thai actor and model Kanawut Traipipattanapong, known as Gulf, commanded the catwalk in the brand’s latest collection, embodying their signature street silhouette with a contemporary edge. Meanwhile, all of social media’s eyes were on South Korean actor Wi Ha Joon, who also made a striking statement from the front row, adding to the show’s allure. 

A moody palette of black and gray-greens set the foundation, punctuated by glimpses of ochre and eggwhite that added warmth to the collection. Outerwear took center stage, with impeccably fitted double-breasted leather trenches and sleek zippered jackets juxtaposed against the light slip dresses and vintage sweaters. A range of trousers, from wide-legged silhouettes to precisely tailored slim fits, reinforced the overall look’s approach to proportion and structure. Footwear remained rooted in the brand’s DNA, featuring a mix of boots and classic black shoes styled with crisp white socks. A loosely knotted tie—a seemingly nonchalant yet intentional detail—added a touch of undone elegance, a subtle nod to the effortless sophistication that underpinned the entire collection.

Fendi: A family affair 

The Fendis marked their 100th anniversary, opening the milestone show with an endearing cameo by Dardo and Tazio—seven-year-old great-great-grandsons of founders Edoardo and Adele Fendi. The twins, heirs to the family’s legacy, brought a touch of heritage to the evening, while their mother, jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez Fendi, adorned the runway with her exquisite snake chain bracelets and glistening fountain earrings. 

The co-ed show featuring mens and womenswear showed us a spectrum of their crafted luxury that is furr-ever in fashion. While leather and fur coats have been central to Italian brand, their Chantily lace-edged drop waist gowns and separates faintly resonate with the 50s. Along with tiny fingernail sequins and their mastery and structuralism of material, it was evident that many minds from the family had a creative treat while putting this collection together. As creative director of the brand, nepo baby Silvia Venturini Fendi has managed to stay true to her roots while embracing the newer generational shifts in the industry. 

Max Mara: Monochrome mastery  

Max Mara stayed true to its signature palette for Fall/Winter, covering Milan FW in a symphony of rich monochromes—deep burgundy, inky black, timeless camel, and a creamy hue reminiscent of raw cashmere. 

The silhouettes were a study in refined drama with sculpted bodices melted into voluminous skirts and billowing wide-leg trousers, almost all cinched with precision at the waist. Ribbed knitwear offered a tactile contrast, body-fitting tights that exuded an understated sexual touch. With fluid yet structured outerwear, paired with double belts sculpted the form with effortless panache. Shawl collars, a masterstroke of versatility, transformed into protective hoods, marrying function with the brand’s enduring femininity.

Prada: Reimagining the LBDs

Prada’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled at Milan Fashion Week, was less a statement and more an inquiry—an exploration of what femininity means in today’s world. Designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the collection served as a dialogue, challenging conventions and questioning the fluidity of beauty and identity. It dissected the archetypes of femininity, exposing their evolution and inviting reflection on how these perceptions are continuously reshaped.

Having seen Mrs Prada’s creative direction for years, it was no doubt that the show opened with a bold statement—baggy, knee-length black dresses that carried an air of rebellion. Then came the drama with oversized, puffy fur coats worn without pants, and slouchy, exaggerated sweaters with sculpted collars and statement buttons. The brand has long mastered the art of subtle distortion, and this season we continued to see more of it. Artsy crumpled A-lines dresses, and bow-adorned lowkey outfits looked as if they had been lovingly slept in or picked from a too-packed suitcase—normcore chic at its finest. Some art deco charms, pearls, and florals from the necklines of pointelle sweaters as well as buttons reminiscent of vintage brooches, were spotted giving every look a complete makeover. 

Emporio Armani: A deck of fashion cards

Emporio Armani played their cards right this season, weaving a sophisticated deck of motifs into a collection that was equal parts classic and whimsical. Silk skirts, fluid shirts, and airy chiffon bubble-hem dresses carried scattered playing card prints, which, when deconstructed into angular forms, evoked an architectural elegance. Wool jacquard pants and velvet suiting followed suit, reinforcing Armani’s signature refinement.

The motif deepened as intricately embroidered playing cards peeked from beneath wide belts on full-skirted poplin dresses or slipped from the top pockets of sharply tailored black jackets. A sleek black bomber was fully adorned with suits from the deck, complete with an Armani eagle joker. Hearts became a bold emblem—one sat strikingly at the left hip of a scarlet jacket, while another, in black velvet, formed a chest piece beneath a silk waistcoat that discreetly revealed more cards from its breast pocket. Spades and eagles found their place on a collarless silk jacket, while a wool coat was elevated with embroidery of regal face cards. So you know when Armani plays, he plays to win. 

MM6 by Maison Margiela: Into a tailored future 

At MFW, MM6 Maison Margiela presented a class on quiet power—razor-sharp tailoring, sheer glimpses of skin, and a muted palette that whispered luxury. Sleek, moody, and subtly subversive, the collection embraced minimalism with a rebellious streak, crafted for those who make an impact without raising their voice. 

Silhouettes were transformed through structural ingenuity like the tailored blazers, oversized puffers, and masculine coats that had expansive volume. Meanwhile, reduction was just as intentional as expansion. A sheer, ribbed T-shirt layered over second-skin dresses, shirts, and even lightweight trench coats acted as a compressive force, subtly reshaping the garments beneath. Trousers, too, played with transformation—their side seams deliberately exposed to reveal the process of slimming and reconstruction. With a tech and fashion at the forefront, the collection was an exercise in controlled creativity, executed with restraint and precision.

Roberto Cavalli: Thy erupted kingdom come

For Fall 2025, creative director Fausto Puglisi turned to Pompeii—the ancient Italian city frozen in time by Mount Vesuvius nearly 2,000 years ago—as the inspiration for his latest collection at Roberto Cavalli. It’s a place he first fell in love with as a child, and now, as creative director, he continues his tradition of celebrating Italy’s rich landscapes and histories, following past homages to Carrara’s marble and his hometown of Messina, Sicily.

A recognised print and texture obsessive, Puglisi had no shortage of references. Lava flows, intricate frescoes, and Pompeii’s native flora and fauna came alive through opulent fabrics and rich detailing. Additionally, Cavalli’s signature leopard print made an appearance—it’s practically a neutral for the house, and a fitting nod to this collection. The palette was dominated by fiery shades of red, layered across velvet, glossy fur, and high-shine textures. Dresses, co-ords, coats, and trousers exuded an untamed sensuality, their drama heightened by fierce, slicked-back buns. The result? A collection that embodied the hedonistic, intoxicating spirit of both Pompeii and Cavalli himself—burning bright, even in the face of time.

Moschino: The art of irony  
At Milan Fashion Week, Moschino delivered a theatrical spectacle that featured a playful clash of materials and motifs—outfits appeared to be crafted from paper or trash bags, while hats took the shape of plush sofa cushions. A handbag, humorously modeled after a sack of Pepperidge Farm Milano cookies, underscored the brand’s signature satire.

The show opened with traditional tailoring styles, yet nothing felt quite complete—stitches remained exposed, threads dangled from a golden needle lodged into a pin-cushion brooch. Models were also dressed in see-through and polka-dotted dresses, making the looks a lot more dynamic. Beneath the whimsy, the collection subtly gestured toward themes close to the brand’s heart—sustainability, inclusivity, and a critique of excess. Accessories were an eccentric delight with hyper-realistic spaghetti clutches, exaggerated strands of costume pearls, and, in a moment of meta fashion humor, a simple Polaroid of a jeweled brooch pinned to a lapel. Creative director Adrian Appiolaza really wanted everyone to just have fun with fashion, and succeeded at that.  

Versace: Donatella’s power moves  
“I love clothes that empower, that instill strength and confidence,” Donatella Versace declared on Instagram. “With this collection, I am not following any rules—only the rules of the Versace DNA.” And true to her word, she opened the show with a statement as bold as the house itself.

The first few looks emerged like sculptural pieces crafted from Versace Home duvets, printed in the brand’s signature baroque motifs and shaped into extravagant silhouettes. They felt opulent, almost theatrical—an homage to Gianni’s own residences, where grandeur was a way of life. From there, the collection unfolded in a seamless blend of a print-heavy past and a high-glam minimal present, paying tribute to Versace’s iconic heritage while pushing its codes forward. Versace also infused its signature glamour with an edge, reimagining denim with intricate patchwork, shimmering embellishments, and cowboy-inspired boots and shirts. Vivid bursts of red, cobalt, and purple punctuated a moody, noir-toned palette, while models—lips painted in deep hues and hair sleeked straight to perfection—exuded an air of intensity.

The runway oscillated between sensuality and sophistication, offering everything from daring, leg-baring mini dresses to sweeping, floor-length gowns. Even the classic LBD was redefined, adorned with the unmistakable Versace print, proving that heritage need not be static—it can be reinvented with every stitch.

Ferragamo: A rosey recital 
Creative Director Maximilian Davis, continued his nuanced dialogue between Ferragamo and the world of movement, this time drawing subtle parallels to the late German choreographer Pina Bausch. While Bausch had no direct affiliation with the house, her postmodern aesthetic codes—sleek, elongated silhouettes, impeccably tailored coats, and fluid, diaphanous gowns—retain an enduring resonance, influencing designers for years. 

For this Fall/Winter season, Davis orchestrated a vision steeped in restraint yet rich in tactile luxury. Models glided over a runway strewn with crimson rose petals, their bare feet encased in plush, fur-lined sandals—a choreographed interplay of fragility and fashion. The collection included sculptural wool overcoats, sleek knit tube dresses, and satin skirts that exuded a quiet authority, while sheer, flapper-style dresses—delicately veiled with shearling and lace—hinted at some sensuality. The Hug bag, already an emblem of Ferragamo’s modern codes, found new expressions as exaggerated belt bags on the model. 

Jimmy Choo: An animal instinct 
Jimmy Choo unveiled an exclusive presentation of its Enriched Glamour collection during the week this season attended by the friends of the house like Poppy Delevingne, Aron Piper and more. Echoing the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 Statement Glamour collection, Sandra Choi’s latest vision sharpens Jimmy Choo’s after-dark aesthetic with a rich, moody palette of deep browns, jet blacks, and maroon reds. A deliberate touch of diamond brilliance punctuates the collection, adding a measured yet striking luminosity to its refined elegance.

An untamed elegance coursed through the footwear and handbags, drawing inspiration from the natural world. Snakeskin patterns slithered across block-heel mules, while knee-high boots in leopard and cow prints introduced a bold, tactile look. Leather handbags mirrored this exotic sensibility, rendered in the same striking motifs with some off white plain janes, further reinforcing the collection’s fierce yet polished aesthetic. Enriched Glamour is an ode to primal luxury—where power dressing meets seduction, and every step leaves a mark.

Dolce & Gabbana: The cool cats 
Milan Fashion Week welcomed a new kind of runway this season—one that didn't end at the catwalk. For D&G’s collection aptly titled Cool Girls, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sent models down a long-stretch runway before spilling onto the streets of Milan, where they danced to the live set by Victoria De Angelis. It was a fitting tribute to the effortless, rebellious energy that defines the brand’s latest shift in energy.

Leaving behind the bold florals, this collection channeled the instinctive cool of women who mix high and low with ease—vintage tees and delicate lace camis layered under slouchy cargo pants or lived-in denim, toughened up with biker boots and thrown together with an oversized designer coat. Shearling, a dominant trend this Milan Fashion Week, was at the heart of the lineup, whether discreetly lining army coats, distressed denim jackets, and leather bombers, or making a bold statement in sweeping, fringed ponchos and sculptural outerwear. The color palette leaned into utilitarian cool—military greens, inky blacks, and classic denim blues—tones that felt effortlessly wearable yet rich with attitude. By breaking their own boundaries, Dolce & Gabbana proved that Cool Girls don’t just walk—they take over the streets.

Bally: A story on spontaneity and structure 
For Fall 2025, Simone Bellotti’s Bally was less about form and more about duality. The collection is titled Leistung Aufführung—a term that encapsulates "performance" both as measurable output (Leistung) and as artistic expression (Aufführung)—the collection explored the tension between precision and spontaneity, discipline and creativity, all at once.

Wide belts cinched at the waist, sharp tailoring sculpted the form, furry hi-low hems, sequin-covered tops, and huge symmetric checks added a sense of controlled drama. Even peplums—yes, the debated style made a striking return, reimagined in punk-inflected leathers and ornate brocades.Traditional tailoring was also disrupted by bold gestures—sharp suits punctuated with rebellious shearling, rigorous silhouettes softened by leather. The makeup ranged from soft, second-skin looks to full-face holographic shimmer and graphic eyeliners. The final vision? A collection that thrives in contrast, where precision meets impulse, and where the elegance of routine is made all the more compelling by the desire to break free from it. 

Giorgio Armani: Returned to roots 
At 90, Giorgio Armani remains an unwavering force in fashion, his mastery of understated luxury more relevant than ever. This season, he revisits his sartorial roots with Roots—a collection that distills the essence of Armani style into pure, precise lines that exude effortless elegance. The show opened with a palette of golden sand, soft beige, and muted greys, sculpting fluid jackets and diaphanous tops, paired with loosely tailored or silken trousers. 

As the collection deepened, so did the tones—rich greens, earthy browns, and deep blues swept across the runway in a succession of impeccably cut coats, structured tops, and tactile knits. Velvet made a pronounced statement, with round-collared jackets and languid trousers embodying Armani’s signature refinement. But amidst this sophisticated palette, a glimmering contrast emerged. Intricate blue stone and sequin work adorned the models, and even the accessories, introducing a bejeweled brilliance to the otherwise restrained choice of textures. 

“The garments take on the volcanic hues and mineral glow of sun-scorched earth, reassuring in their ancestral purity,” the show notes declared—a poetic nod to both nature’s permanence and the designer’s enduring aesthetic. Accessories followed suit: pillbox-style hats, subtly tilted, framed each look, while smudged winged eyeliners and soft smiles lent an air of quiet confidence. Notably, in a season witnessing the return of fur to the runways, Armani’s take felt like a considered evolution rather than a nostalgic revival—one more element in his ongoing dialogue between heritage and modernity.

Lead image: Getty Images