Brooches are making a comeback in SS24 and here's why you should invest in them

Follow fashion for long enough and you will realise that virtually every trend is cyclical, but there are certain boomerang items. In the world of watches and jewellery, it’s the brooch. Brooches date back to before the Bronze Age when flint and thorn examples served to pin clothing together, but they soon evolved into objects of ornamentation. Over the centuries they’ve become one of the most expressive items of jewellery; placed upon lapels, pinned onto chokers, and even worn in the hair, brooches effortlessly swing in and out of fashion. For SS24, they’re back on the catwalks and red carpets with gusto.

There were myriad interpretations in the spring/summer 2024 ready-to-wear collections: from flowers, animals, and anatomical motifs, to sculptural metal designs and those with futuristic features. Carolina Herrera adorned neat-fitting tailored jackets with supersized golden posies, while Tory Burch continued the floral theme by pinning fluffy white pom-poms reminiscent of dandelion seed heads to several lapels. At Chanel, camellias in full bloom peeped from under the collars of tweed mini dresses and two-piece suits, while at Erdem, a glittering gold dragonfly brooch perched at the join of a crisp shirt collar.

Stella McCartney brought a bohemian, vintage feel to her SS24 collection with velvet and mirrored brooches in the shape of lips and peace signs, along with letter-shaped designs that spelt out ‘freedom’ down the front of a floral tea dress; each one was crafted individually by English artist Andrew Logan. At Coperni, Naomi Campbell gave us a glimpse of the brooches of the future, wearing a ‘Humane Ai Pin’ upon a pinstripe suit – an AI-enabled brooch conceived by ex-Apple employees that has been touted as the next rival device to smartphones.

Loewe anagram brooch in metal gold, ₹27,924 approx. 

PANTHÈRE DE CARTIER BROOCH, 18K WHITE GOLD, ₹21,10,000

Saint Laurent CASSANDRE YSL BROOCH IN METAL, ₹45,58,490

 

 

Chanel strass CC brooch, ₹1,22,931 approx.

 

Gucci Double G crystal flower brooch in antique gold-toned metal, ₹30,83,197

The red carpet has also brought brooches back in a big way, especially among male celebrity circles. From Michael B. Jordan wearing two historic ‘Bird on a Rock’ Tiffany brooches to last year’s Oscars ceremony and Paul Mescal wearing a vintage Cartier design to the BAFTAS, to the recent Emmy awards, where Tyler James Williams, Barry Keoghan, and Colman Domingo all proudly wore precious pins—a tuxedo without a brooch simply feels a little lacklustre in 2024.

Female powerhouses have been flying the flag, too—at last year’s halftime Super Bowl performance, Rihanna wore three dazzling diamond brooches upon her red Loewe jumpsuit, while Beyoncé recently stepped out wearing a Balmain dress that turned her entire torso into a glittering sapphire brooch for the London premiere of Renaissance. Influential women wearing brooches is nothing new; they have long been used to subtly convey power and symbolic meaning. Madeleine Albright, the first woman to serve as the United States Secretary of State, was renowned for her brooch collection and wrote a memoir called Read My Pins: Stories from a Diplomat’s Jewel Box, in which she decodes the pieces she wore at pivotal moments.

While you’re unlikely to need to convey a political message, it does make sense to choose your brooch wisely, as a timeless design will be one you can return to with each revival of the trend. Consider your favourite metal tone, overall size, and the colour of any gemstones—try to select pieces that will complement your jewellery capsule wardrobe and experiment with different placements on jackets, shirts, or scarves. Aim to find a forever piece, perhaps featuring your birthstone or one that reminds you of a personal trip, achievement or loved one—these are the brooches that last a lifetime or longer.

This piece originally appeared in Harper's Bazaar UK.

Also Read: Standout street style moments at the London Fashion Week 2024

Also Read: 7 luxe women's watches that are worth investing in