All the stories that emerged from the showcases at the Paris Haute Couture Week

Paris Haute Couture Week Spring/Summer 2025 was a profound tapestry of personal narratives and artistic expressions, with each designer weaving their unique stories into the fabric of their collections. Here’s a closer look at the poignant inspirations that defined this season’s standout shows:

Valentino

 

Alessandro Michele’s debut haute couture collection for Valentino was a scholarly exploration inspired by Umberto Eco's concept of infinity. Michele proposed that each of the 48 looks should be understood as an “uninterrupted and potentially infinite catalogue of words,” blending diverse references such as the 16th-century commedia dell’arte actor Francesco Andreini and the Mandarin fish. This approach resulted in a collection that was both eclectic and deeply intellectual. But what else would we expect from the most visionary designer in fashion today? Of course, we would be remiss to mention the bejewelled BDSM-esque masks. Who wants one? 

Gaurav Gupta

Gaurav Gupta’s collection, Across The Flame, was a deeply personal testament to resilience and transformation. Following a near-fatal fire accident that left both Gupta and his life partner, poet Navkirat Sodhi, with severe burns, the collection channeled their journey of healing. Themes of spirituality and rebirth were evident, with designs featuring sculptural silhouettes and a palette of noirs, simmering golds, and angelic whites (that were said to be reminiscent of the bandages that Sodhi would have been wrapped in during recovery). Gupta emphasised that the collection was a deeply personal testament to the power of resilience and the infinite light within all of us. Megan Thee Stallion, who sat front row cheering GG on, loved the fact that fashion and spirituality came so closely together in the collection—she even delivered a special rap on it for Bazaar.

She’s not wrong — for the invite, the designer sent individual brass singing bowls to everyone — a testament to finding your peace in the madness that can be life, creativity and of course, couture. 

Rahul Mishra

Rahul Mishra’s collection, The Pale Blue Dot, was deeply personal, reflecting on the recent loss of his father. He drew inspiration from Carl Sagan’s reflections on Earth’s fragility to explore themes of grief and hope. Mishra described the collection as a mix of dystopian speculation, nightmare, sorrow, and hope, aiming to create something meaningful amidst personal sorrow. On the mood board was a gold embroidered reproductive system, alluding to the start of life itself. How I would love to see this emblazoned on T-shirts that we could all wear! In the crowd was fictional eccentric designer Pierre Cadault, from the famed Emily in Paris series. The best part—the two designers posed together backstage for a photo. His verdict: 12/10, no notes!

Schiaparelli

Some things in life sacrosanct. For instance, 10:00 am on the first day of Paris Haute Couture Week is always, and I mean, always, blocked for a Schiaparelli spectacle. Thank god for consistency. And speaking of consistency, once again Daniel Roseberry brought the drama to couture. For Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture Spring 2025 collection, Roseberry was inspired by Madame Grès, Saint Laurent, and other couture houses of the 1920s and 30s. Their way of disrupting the body through design showed in the way the bust dropped to the waist, crinolines came in waves and corsetry was used to create trick of the eye. Titled ‘Icarus Couture’, the collection featured ostrich feathers, painted for a polished finish, satin, velvet and moire ribbons that Roseberry was inspired by on his personal visit to shops in Paris’ first arrondissement, and a dress that featured embroidered silk threads in the form of cocoon-like balls in place of pearls. The idea was to be modern, but not minimal. We love a designer who puts maximalism back into couture. And we love a designer who unabashedly takes inspiration from past greats. 

Dior

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior was a masterful dance through time, drawing inspiration from the storied archives of the house and iconic designers like Yves Saint Laurent. The show, held at the Musée Rodin, featured updated classics such as the Trapèze line and Cigale silhouette with modern fabrics. Highlights included flowing capes with organza feathers, embroidered silver coats, and lace-trimmed tulle skirts. But the greatest talking point of the show also included the backdrop for the catwalk. Every cellphone that went up to grab a picture of a beautiful piece of couture floating by, would have inadvertently captured Mumbai-based artist Rithika Merchant’s surrealist artworks, brought to towering panels by the artistry of Chanakya Schoof of Craft and Karishma Swali. The venue displayed large-scale textile installations by the artist that celebrated womanhood and craftsmanship. 

Giorgio Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani celebrated the 20th anniversary of his haute couture line, Armani Privé, with an elegant show in Paris, attended by celebrities such as Demi Moore and Jessica Biel. The 90-year-old designer presented a spring 2025 collection that revisited iconic elements from the line’s past, featuring shimmering black gowns, Asian-inspired fitted jackets with intricate embroidery, and crystal-encrusted full skirts. The use of pearls as embellishments reflected a recurring motif of serenity in Armani's work. Held in the palazzo Armani with a majestic setting, the show highlighted Armani's signature blend of creativity and restraint, emphasizing the timeless quality of his designs. The emotional highlight occurred when Armani took his bow, receiving a standing ovation from the audience.

Chanel

As Chanel awaits new creative director, Matthieu Blazy to come on board, the ateliers put on a colourful show at the Grand Palais. But what really stole the show was Dua Lipa embraced the coquettecore, arriving in a floor-length black cape adorned with a giant black velvet hair bow. 

Elie Saab

We love a big supermodel moment. Elie Saab’s runway was graced by supermodels Candice Swanepoel, Romee Strijd, and Joan Smalls, each bringing their unique allure to the collection. And what’s better than couture, reimagined? There was denim couture — gowns made with the sturdy blue fabric that is the holy grail of every modern woman’s wardrobe. Black flowers sewn, incredible tailoring, and trails that could last for days, the show breathed new life into couture. Plus there was a front row to rally the runway – Eva Longoria, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Sonam Kapoor Ahuja… we could go on forever.