Why astaxanthin could be the antioxidant that trumps all antioxidants

Retinol, vitamin C, resveratrol—when it comes to powerful skincare antioxidants, these ingredients take the cake. But did you know, among these superheroes lies a less-talked-about underdog known as astaxanthin? Present in many skincare formulas, this equally powerful antioxidant has gone unnoticed. Well, until now. Said to be up to 6,000 times more effective than vitamin C, 800 times more effective than coenzyme Q10, and 550 times more effective than vitamin E, astaxanthin is known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, making it a good fit for those with sensitive skin, too. So what makes this unfamiliar ingredient such a powerhouse to watch out for? Experts weigh in!

What Is Astaxanthin?

“Astaxanthin is a naturally occurring carotenoid pigment present in microalgae, salmon, and krill, which imparts a reddish hue to these organisms,” explains Dr Madhuri Agarwal, medical director and founder, Yavana Aesthetics. “In the context of skincare, astaxanthin is utilised both topically and as a dietary supplement to enhance skin health and provide protection against oxidative damage.”

Elaborating further, Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetic physician and founder of ISAAC Luxe, says that it is classified as a non-provitamin A carotenoid, meaning it does not convert into vitamin A in the human body. “This avoids the risk of vitamin A toxicity while still delivering powerful antioxidant benefits,” she adds. 

Due to its lipophilic nature, astaxanthin is typically solubilised in oil-based carriers to enhance dermal absorption. The ingredient accumulates in marine organisms, which is what contributes to its characteristic reddish-orange hue.

Why Is It Different?

What sets astaxanthin apart from the other antioxidants is its unique molecular structure. “Astaxanthin's molecular structure allows it to span the lipid bilayer of cell membranes, anchoring both the inner and outer layers, providing a comprehensive protection against reactive oxygen species.” To top it off, its anti-inflammatory properties help cancel out the sensitisation effects of antioxidants like vitamin C or retinol, making it a safe fit for those with reactive or sensitive skin.

The Benefits Of Astaxanthin

Reverses oxidative stress: Since astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant, it helps reverse oxidative stress that is caused by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental factors. “It works by stabilising cell membranes and reducing the breakdown of collagen and elastin, the two key components responsible for skin firmness and elasticity,” adds Gupta.

Improves hydration: Astaxanthin is known to enhance moisture retention, giving the skin a healthier appearance, especially when combined orally and topically. It is also known to boost the skin’s barrier function, which is important, especially for those with sensitive or compromised skin.

Anti-ageing effects: The combination of antioxidants and hydration helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and improves overall skin texture and tone. “It is shown in studies to help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots by preventing collagen breakdown,” explains Agarawal. 

Anti-inflammatory: Its anti-inflammatory properties may help calm redness and irritation, which proves to be beneficial for sensitive skin.

Astaxanthin is popularly found in topical skincare such as antioxidant serums, moisturisers, face oils, sunscreens, and overnight repair creams. It can also be found in oral nutraceuticals, which are available in capsule or softgel form. “Oral supplementation provides systemic antioxidant support, protecting not only the skin but also the eyes, cardiovascular system, and neural tissue from oxidative stress,” says Dr Gupta

Pair It With

Niacinamide for barrier support, repair, and anti-inflammation.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) + vitamin E as it enhances collagen synthesis and provides a synergistic and comprehensive antioxidant shield.

Hyaluronic acid to boost hydration.

Peptides and ceramides to support collagen-boosting effects and reinforce structural integrity and lipid barrier function

Ferulic acid and CoQ10 to stabilise the antioxidant network and improve mitochondrial health, aka the powerhouse of cells behind generating energy.

Do Not Pair It With

Experts advise avoiding pairing astaxanthin with high concentrations of alpha or beta hydroxy acids, strong exfoliating acids, or low pH exfoliants, as they may destabilise its structure, reduce the effectiveness of the antioxidant, and irritate sensitive skin. It’s best to alternate these products or use them in different routines—one AM and the other PM.

Who Is It Suited For?

Considering its anti-ageing effects, astaxanthin is perfect for those concerned with early signs of skin ageing, such as fine lines, uneven skin, dullness, sun damage, or any sort of environmental stress. It's also ideal for those who live in urban environments where daily exposure to pollution and sunlight increases the oxidative stress on the skin. Other than that, it’s apt for those with sensitive or reactive skin as it offers antioxidant benefits, without being too harsh or irritating for the skin.

While it is a well-tolerated antioxidant compatible with most skin types, astaxanthin should be avoided if you are allergic to seafood, microalgae, or carotenoid compounds. Do consult a healthcare provider before use, and a patch test is always recommended. Dr Agarwal says, “Due to its strong natural pigment, certain formulations may temporarily impart a slight tint to the skin.”

Lead image: Pexels

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