Retinol has always been the sports car of the skincare world—a bit of a show-off and the status-symbol ingredient every dermatologist swoons over. Deservedly so. Retinol remains the only proven ingredient to target the cells beneath the surface, ensuring you wear the patina of ‘ageless’ dramatically on your face. It coaxes fresh skin cells to the surface faster, boosts collagen production, and even works its magic upon lines, dark spots, and uneven skin tones. But that’s where the fairytale ends. All of these baby-faced benefits can mean pushing through an ugly few weeks of red, dry, flaking skin, which rarely subsides for those with sensitive skin. Mercifully, that’s all about to change with a new flexible approach. Intelligent delivery systems have emerged that shuttle retinol into the skin without risking irritation. The new era of ‘flexinol’ is upon us, meaning we can ‘microdose’ smaller, less disruptive amounts or, indeed, opt for gentle, natural retinol alternatives to reap the benefits without the downsides.

Small but mighty

Kiehl’s Retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro- Dose Serum, `4,540

Given retinol’s impressive resume, it is no wonder that we can’t resist cranking up the potency in the hope of faster results. Cue a downward spiral of irritated skin, which sees us swear off retinol altogether. Meanwhile, sensitive skin types struggle to build tolerance with even the most frugal application—which is why retinol micro-dosing is fast becoming one of skincare’s biggest trends. As it turns out, our skincare routines can benefit from micro-dosing. Tiny amounts of retinol—typically 25 to 50 percent lower in concentration than traditional over-the-counter versions—steadily accelerate cell renewal, while minimising the uncomfortable side effects.

A forerunner of the micro-dosing trend is Clinique’s Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum, which combines a mild form of retinoic acid with hyaluronic acid to offset dryness. Likewise, Kiehl’s Retinol Skin- Renewing Daily Micro-Dose Serum uses a mere 0.1 percent concentration of retinol. For the brand’s Global Scientific Director, Dr Nancy Ilaya, it all comes down to mindful formulating. “We wanted to formulate a retinol product that could be used every day with minimal discomfort, while still offering powerful anti-ageing benefits,” she explains. “To do so, our formula includes ceramides that release vital skin barrier lipids to prevent dryness. The precise dose of retinol can then be effectively delivered into the skin without over-accelerating cell turnover or disrupting the skin barrier.”

A soft approach

Sunday Riley Luna Retinol Sleeping Night Oil, `7,320/35ml

Tata Harper Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil, `11,240 (approx)

There are a few reasons why you might consider a retinol alternative: If you suffer from sensitivity or have a darker skin tone and are wary of using retinol for fear of triggering post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Hailing from Ayurvedic medicine, bakuchiol is the most popular of these after a study in the British Journal of Dermatology found that it decreased fine lines and pigmentation at the same rate as retinol. “Studies show that bakuchiol mimics Vitamin A in exactly the same way as a synthetic version would, by stimulating collagen, targeting the signs of ageing and hyperpigmentation,” explains Shirley Conlon, founder of her eponymous Dubai-based organic skincare brand. “But unlike Vitamin A, it won’t cause irritation or photosensitivity; it doesn’t thin the skin barrier or have a peeling effect.” Retinoic acid extract from rosehip seed oil is another popular retinol alternative.

Tata Harper, who has her eponymous brand, formulated her Retinoic Nutrient Face Oil around the botanical. “Enzymes on the skin’s surface convert rosehip seed oil into retinoic acid,” clarifies Tata, noting that it additionally contains “essential fatty adds and antioxidants to support cell regeneration.”

Sunday Riley’s Luna Retinol Sleeping Night Oil uses oil as a vehicle to deliver retinol into the skin. It is formulated with an ultra-stable, gentle retinol ester and a complex mix of lightweight but nutritious oils, which soothe irritated skin and leave you with a visibly, even-toned complexion. Retinoid ester is much gentler on the skin but it is just as effective as traditional retinol, making it an ideal choice for people with sensitive skin or new users of retinol. Perhaps the most important thing to note is that skincare works best when applied consistently. With its promise of gentle, daily application to attend to the signs of ageing, ‘flexinol’ is a tantalising prospect for quietly effective results. 

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