How ancient beauty ingredients are resurfacing in modern skincare routines

Cleopatra bathed in milk and honey. Geishas double-cleansed. And, turmeric was an Indian bridal staple long before its international claim to fame. Beauty rituals have existed across the globe for centuries. Rooted in history and culture, and often region-specific, these regimes found solace in medicinal ingredients available locally.

From conventional herbs, roots, and foliage, to unconventional animal secretions—necessity was evidently the mother of invention back then. Decades later, these skin saviours have found a place in expert-backed formulations. While popular ingredients like ashwagandha, rice water, and shea butter continue to hone their place in contemporary skincare, make way for these lesser-known potent ingredients worth your top-shelf too.

FRANKINCENSE + MYRRH

The pairing of frankincense and myrrh has been documented in ancient Egyptian scriptures as a treatment for skin ulcers and wounds.“The two ingredients have a long history of being used in rituals, medicine, and skincare in the Middle East and India,” says Dr Niketa Sonavane, Celebrity Dermatologist and Founder of Ambrosia Aesthetics, Mumbai.“Their resin has been valued for thousands of years.What makes them stand out in modern skincare is their anti-inflammatory and regenerative power.” Together, they work as a skin-repairing duo—but avoid pairing them with strong actives like retinol or AHAs in the same routine.

Skin benefits: Slows down the signs of skin ageing, firms the skin, promotes smoother skin texture, brightens and supports collagen synthesis, has powerful wound healing and antimicrobial properties.

Best suited for: Acne-prone, compromised skin. It works well for sensitive skin too.

Potential side-effects: They are essential oils and can be sensitising if not diluted properly.

Pairs well with: Niacinamide or peptides to calm inflammation while supporting collagen production.

Bazaar recommends: Rejuvenating Frankincense Hydrating Cream, Neal’s Yard Remedies

MUGWORT

While it may sound straight out of Hogwarts’ book of spells, mugwort is a weed known for its healing properties. Often used in traditional Korean cuisine, medicine, and homeopathic remedies, this power- packed ingredient now finds itself in modern skincare too.“Mugwort—artemisia vulgaris—has soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial properties,” says Dr Manasi Shirolikar, Consultant Dermatologist. “It contains flavonoids, coumarins, polyphenols, and vitamin E.”

Skin benefits: It’s especially valued for its role in treating sensitive, acne-prone, and inflamed skin.

Best suited for: Those experiencing acne, eczema, psoriasis, contact dermatitis, and wound healing. It’s also good for sensitive skin.

Potential side-effects: While it’s a well-tolerated ingredient, patch testing is recommended.

Pairs well with: Niacinamide for a synergistic anti-inflammatory action, mild antioxidant benefits, and a strengthened skin barrier. Cica for a combined effect of reducing inflammation and speeding up wound healing, and azelaic acid for a beneficial combination in acne-prone and rosacea-prone skin.

Bazaar Recommends: Mugwort Mask, I’m From; Artemisia Capillaris Extract Toner, One Thing

BLUE TANSY

A cerulean beauty, blue tansy is native to the Mediterranean region, but was also traditionally used
in Chinese medicine.“Derived from the Moroccan plant Tanacetum annuum, blue tansy is extracted using an oil-steam distillation process,” informs Dr Varshini Reddy, Cosmetic Dermatologist and Founder of The Glow Clinic.“It is known to be an excellent anti- inflammatory and antioxidant, and it hosts a multitude of skin-soothing properties.”

Skin benefits: Reduces redness, good for reactive skin and rosacea, treats eczema, and supports wound healing. Its antioxidant properties fight free radical damage. It’s also used on sensitive or dandruff-prone scalps to relieve itching.

Best suited for: All skin types.

Potential side-effects: Always best to do a patch test, especially if you are allergic to specific plants or essential oils.“It is also said to react with antidepressant medications, and therefore is best avoided for patients who consume them,” says Dr Reddy.

Pairs well with: Carrier oils like jojoba for the skin and scalp, and ingredients like cica, niacinamide, and squalane for skin-soothing effects.

Bazaar Recommends: Luna Sleeping Night Oil, Sunday Riley; Nourishing Sleep Oil, AMINU

SAFFRON

Referred to as red gold, saffron has been India’s best-kept beauty secret for centuries.With a history that spans over 3,500 years, it is one of the most expensive spices in the world due to its labour- intensive harvesting and intricate manual processing. “It is a prized spice in Ayurveda and is loaded with antioxidants,” explains Dr Batul Patel, Medical Director of The Bombay Skin Clinic, Mumbai.“These compounds have anti-inflammatory, brightening, and reparative effects.”

Skin benefits: Brightens and evens out complexion, reduces pigmentation and dark spots, calms inflammation, soothes irritated skin, offers antibacterial properties, and is beneficial for acne-prone skin.

Best suited for: Pigmented, uneven, and acne-prone skin. It’s also excellent for dull or tired-looking skin that needs revitalisation.

Potential side effects: Being a potent natural ingredient, saffron can occasionally cause sensitivity or redness if used in high concentrations or mixed with harsh actives. Always use in well-formulated blends or in small amounts.

Pairs well with: Licorice root extract to further enhance pigmentation reduction, turmeric for a synergistic anti-inflammatory effect, and vitamin C for improved radiance and antioxidant protection.

Bazaar Recommends: Precious Saffron Oil, Dearist; Kumkumadi Youth-Revitalising Facial Oil, Kama Ayurveda

HARAKEKE

“I first came across Harakeke while exploring native New Zealand botanicals,” says Dr Niketa Sonavane.“It is the Maori name for New Zealand flax, but it is not the kind of flax you eat.”The magic lies in its gel-like sap found in the base of the leaf—it’s almost similar to aloe vera, but gentler and more hydrating.“It has high levels of natural linoleic acid and mucilage, which help your skin retain moisture like a sponge.”

Skin benefits: Deeply hydrates the skin, calms redness, soothes dryness or irritation, strengthens skin barrier. It is ideal for eczema-prone skin and is great for post-laser skin recovery.

Best suited for: Sensitive skin due to its non- comedogenic nature and is free from essential oils or fragrance. Great for those allergic to aloe.

Potential side-effects: Always patch-test if you are allergic to pollen or plants.

Pairs well with: Hyaluronic acid for deep hydration, squalane for barrier-building, and ceramides for a moisture boost.

Bazaar Recommends: Harakeke Night Cream, Aotea; Harakeke Firming Flax Serum, Living Nature

MUSHROOMS

Soups, coffee, and now skincare, this fungi has become quite the popular superfood. Rooted in ancient traditional Chinese and Tibetan medicine, mushrooms are “loaded with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and brightening properties,” says Dr Manasi Shirolikar. “They are gaining popularity due to their adaptogenic nature.This helps the skin respond to stress.And they are also rich in beta-glucans, which provide hydration and barrier support.” The most commonly used mushrooms in skincare include reishi, shiitake, and tremella.

Skin benefits: Hydration, fortified skin barrier, reduced inflammation, brighter skin. It also reduces
the appearance of fine lines, due to its hydration and antioxidant properties.

Best suited for: Sensitive skin, dehydrated or dull skin, and even mature skin.

Potential side-effects: Possible allergic reactions in people sensitive to mushrooms.

Pairs well with: Hyaluronic acid or glycerin to boost hydration, ceramides for sensitive or compromised skin, retinol for anti-ageing effect, and vitamin C to amplify the antioxidant and brightening effects.

Bazaar Recommends: Super Hydrate Overnight Mask, Paula’s Choice; Adaptogen Deep Moisture Cream,Youth to the People

YUZU SEEDS

With origins in East Asia, specifically Japan and Korea, the yuzu fruit has been an ancient medicinal and culinary go-to for centuries.“Yuzu seeds are rich in collagen-promoting compounds, particularly plant- based ceramides, limonene, and antioxidants like vitamin C,” says Dr Batul Patel.“They’re also known for their mild exfoliating properties and ability to lock in hydration.”

Skin benefits: Brightens dull skin, improves luminosity, strengthens the skin barrier, enhances moisture retention, supports collagen synthesis and skin elasticity, provides gentle exfoliation, and helps even skin tone.

Best suited for: Dry, dull, and mature skin. It also works well for sensitive skin.

Potential side-effects: Generally well tolerated, but overuse—especially in concentrated forms—can sometimes cause mild irritation.

Pairs well with: Hyaluronic acid for enhanced hydration, niacinamide for improved barrier function and glow, and vitamin E to boost antioxidant effects and soothe the skin.

Bazaar Recommends: Yuzu Vitamin C Br ight Toner, Saturday Skin; Ugly Lovely YujaWash Off Mask, The Face Shop

DRAGON'S BLOOD

Contrary to popular belief, no Drogon, Dragonite, or Maleficent were harmed in the making of this ingredient. “Dragon’s blood is actually a scarlet resin found in the croton lechleri tree located in the Amazonian rainforest,” explains Dr Varshini Reddy.“It has been used widely in ancient cultures for its wound healing, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties.” In skincare, this ingredient is also said to stimulate collagen production, all while calming, soothing, and hydrating the skin.

Skin benefits: Promotes wound healing by forming a protective layer, improves collagen production and hydration, fights free radical stress, and protects skin against pollution and UV damage.

Best suited for: Ageing skin as it hydrates, promotes cellular repair, and acts like a powerful antioxidant.

Potential side-effects: As is with any plant-based resin or ingredient, irritation may occur, therefore, a patch test is always recommended.

Pairs well with: Hyaluronic acid for an extra dose of hydration, peptides for an extra boost of collagen and elastin, and squalane for intense moisturisation.

Bazaar Recommends: Dragon’s Blood Sculpting Gel and Dragon’s Blood Fix Plumping Serum, NIP+FAB, both Rodial

All Images: Courtesy the brands

This piece originally appeared in the April-May print edition of Harper's Bazaar India.

 

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