The Indian fashion industry is embracing inclusivity, diversity and more representation, one model at a time

As Kunal Rawal’s presentation, ‘Pride in Celebrating Diversity by Defying Labels’, got underway for the final show of the Blenders Pride Glassware Tour 2022, one couldn’t help but notice how far the fashion industry has come. Models of all shapes, sizes, colours, and ages walked nonchalantly to an upbeat tempo (and later to the melodious live tracks of Harrdy Sandhu)—perfectly at home in the designer’s textured, woven creations. One could spot Toshada, the diminutive, buzz-cut blogger-turned-model in an oversize, louche black jacket and pants combo, as well as, up-and-coming transgender model Kenny Awomi.

Celebrating diversity and inclusivity is au courant today—with all the social media barometers pointing to this trend—but hopefully here to stay, and not just a fleeting love affair with being politically correct. For designers, it is a chance to up their game, and be seen as all-embracing towards a more realistic showcase that reflects who their clientele really is. “If you see Indian women, the majority of them are mid-size,” says Aayushi Badheka, a Mumbai-based model and content creator represented by Inega. “I had to speak up about mid-size fashion. You’ve heard about plus-size fashion, so one should include mid-size as well... I would want more inclusivity.”

The time is also ripe. In India, change was in the air around 2019, but internationally, the world woke up to inclusivity with that one show. “Rihanna’s 2018 Savage x Fenty show—just look at what that presentation did (it was a celebration of womanhood in all shapes, colours, and sizes),” says Sakshi Sindwani, a Delhi-based digital content creator. “If all our designers can do that—and they should—they would reflect a more realistic body type on the ramp, sizes 12-14.”

So when the FDCI started holding inclusive auditions for the first time ever in 2019, for pool models, they created history. “As the first inclusive pool model, I did a show for Shivan & Narresh wearing a two-piece black bathing suit, and that photo went viral,” says Sindwani, famous for her über-confident, jazzwalk strut that has audiences clapping and hooting each time she makes an appearance. Sindwani was discovered by Rina Dhaka, and has walked for Amit Aggarwal, Rohit Gandhi+Rahul Khanna, and Siddartha Tytler among others.

The year 2019 was also the time when transgender models like Gaia and Pinky were finding their way to the capital, trying their luck in an industry that had never represented them before. The 6’2” tall Gaia Kaur (formerly known as Gagan) came from Jabalpur to Delhi to study fashion design. She would model for projects for other fashion students, upload her photos on Instagram, and get appreciation from around the globe. Designers in India started noticing. “I did my first show in 2019, and have worked with Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Siddartha Tytler, Gaurav Gupta, and Manish Malhotra,” says Kaur. “Abu-Sandeep treat me like a family member; all the designers I have worked with have been really nice.” But it was certainly tougher than it is today, to get booked for shows. “There is still a limited number of designers who are truly inclusive, and who cast people without seeing their gender, colour, or age...but even some of them will refuse to consider a trans models,” says Kaur. “I know because I have faced this.”

Pinky Thoudam Nongpoknganba Meitei, too, came to Delhi from a small village in Manipur, with dreams in her eyes. “Ever since childhood, I knew that I was different,” says the model who has walked the ramp for Amit Aggarwal, Satya Paul, and Akaaro, and has been in campaigns for Outhouse. “I came out as trans in standard eight or nine, but people are not always accepting, so I got teased a lot.” Currently, Pinky, who is represented by supermodel Lakshmi Rana’s Wilderbee Talents agency, is honing her sights on an international career. She is also building her portfolio, wishing to emulate the success of Anjali Lama, India’s first international trans model export.

What was once seen as a shortcoming, is now a cachet. Petite model Toshada, who is represented by Inega, was approached by scouts when she was just 15, and began her modelling career at 16. “I was never trying to be a model. My goal was to get a doctorate in psychology and work on performance art skills,” she says. “Production houses and designers offered me gigs because they found me interesting, or saw me fit a certain role.” Barely 5 ft tall, and an inspiration for others with alopecia (she’s experimented with colouring her hair, wigs, pixie-cuts, and a complete shave), 24-year-old Toshada realised that her modelling offers were serious, and not just a fleeting fancy. “I have always owned my height, and who hasn’t experienced insecurity while growing up?”, says the model who’s been featured in several international magazines. “There truly is beauty in all kinds of bodies and features, although I think this beauty-based approach is deeply rooted in vanity. The focus needs to shift to personal growth and personality development; then we wouldn’t need to keep preaching self-love as often! That, unfortunately, does not serve marketing narratives... I don’t know when we will experience that shift in mindset.”

India’s own Winnie Harlow (the Canadian model who burst to international stardom after a stint on America’s Next Top Model)—could be 23-year-old 5’2” digital content creator and model Riya Agrawal, who has a skin condition known as vitiligo. Represented by Inega, she has modelled for Amazon, Lenskart, Maybelline, and Bumble, and considers herself a skin positivity influencer. Agrawal returned from her studies in London to work for a digital marketing agency. “I wanted to come back to India,” says Agrawal. “It’s the need of the hour here to accept people as they are. I wanted to be a part of the change. Abroad, people don’t stare at you, and don’t offer to ‘cure’ me, or tell me there is something wrong with me. And if I can help others going through what I am going through—even those with psoriasis or acne issues—that would be great!” Agrawal is currently working on creating content for Winnie Harlow’s sunscreen brand.

It’s a sea change that started as a ripple, and that’s making waves. “In the recent past, there has been a conscious social change on these important subjects, where there has been a social rephrase on the stereotypical idea of beauty and acceptance,” says Pankaj Arora, director at Inega. “This has trickled into many brands’ narratives.” He says that companies that work with models with a social bias reiterate the narrative of being “comfortable as you are, and not subscribing to stereotypical notions about beauty, which don’t define ‘who we are’”. And although the modelling world has embraced darker-skinned models (who didn’t fit the traditional North Indian beauty standard of the ’60s and ’70s) for the past few decades, there is more work to be done. “There is an important social change on-ground,” says Arora. “I am sure that we will move to higher standards of inclusivity through the years.”

Today, thankfully, we live in a world where 20-year-old Zainika Jagasia can dream of an international career in fashion modelling, and see her face on hoardings all over Mumbai. Jagasia, who has Down Syndrome, was discovered by photographer Abhishek Golecha, who is behind the inclusive modelling agency UIB (Unique Is Beautiful), and has also shot for brands like Nykaa Fashion. “I enjoy looking glamorous and dressing up,” shares Jagasia. “I hope to inspire others to model. A lot of people are scared of disabilities, and I would like them to come out and showcase their passion.”

But some like Kaur feel it’s not enough to pay lip service to inclusivity. “There’s a long way to go,” she says. “A senior designer gave me this weird excuse—‘I don’t have your size’. I am a size small, I can fit in small or medium, so if you can customise for a plus model, why not a trans model?” She emphasises that people need to be more welcoming and sensitive. “Just launching a pride campaign with trans models is not enough,” Kaur adds. “Trans girls are female and should be treated as women. Trans people struggle to be women—but we are as feminine as heterosexual women.”

Voices to be heard, changes to come—can it turn into a tidal wave? Only time will tell.

Lead photo: Zainika Jagasia