Classic, retro timepieces are making a comeback in contemporary forms

Retro-inspired luxury timepieces reminiscent of the ’30s, ’50s, ’60s, ’70s and ’80s are making their presence felt in 2023 collections across luxury houses including Hermès, Panerai, and Carl F. Bucherer, among others. These emblematic house icons look as chic and relevant today as they did when they were launched back in the day.

 

A key example is Hermès Arceau Petite Lune, which was born of the imagination of Henri d’Origny in 1978. This timeless classic reconciles finesse with inventiveness. Its round white gold case set with 70 diamonds rests on a stirrup, creating a timeless yet singular silhouette. An astral world sculpted in aventurine, mother-of-pearl, aragonite, and opal, framed by a halo of diamonds, is a play on materials and textures and invites contemplation of distant planets.

 

Relief and depth effects are the result of meticulous artisanal work that involves refining aventurine until it becomes translucent and associating it with mother-of-pearl, whose iridescent shimmer evokes the Northern Lights. As if about to stage an eclipse from the dial, a generous freshwater mother-of-pearl moon faces the luminescence of a planet made of aragonite. In the distance, an opaline star shines amid a constellation of diamonds, bright stars in the night sky. This dreamlike interpretation of the solar system beats to the rhythm of the Manufacture Hermès H1837 self-winding movement and the moon phase module, driving displays of the hours and minutes, as well as the moon phases between 10 and 11 o’clock. A sapphire-blue alligator strap crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops is the perfect finishing touch to the Arceau Petite Lune watch. 

 

Another significant timepiece which merits mentioning is Carl F Bucherer’s Heritage BiCompax Annual that made waves at Baselworld 2019 in Switzerland, and is now finally being launched worldwide. Carl F Bucherer’s latest model is a celebration of the design and savoir faire of the early 1950s. Inspired by a historical timepiece from the museum of the watchmaker, the Heritage BiCompax Annual combines an elegant vintage look with sophisticated “Made of Lucerne” Swiss watchmaking heritage. This luxurious chronograph, which features an annual calendar and a BiCompax dial design, is now available in two limited-edition versions. It combines the vintage flair of the watch that inspired contemporary features such as a 41mm stainless steel case. The chronograph features the BiCompax dial design of its retro predecessor: two symmetrically arranged totalizators are positioned on the horizontal central axis and framed by a tachymeter scale. Two versions of this watch are available, each of which is limited to 888 pieces—a nod to 1888, the founding year of the brand. This masterpiece may be reminiscent of its retro predecessor on the outside, but it is powered by an ultra-modern automatic movement on the inside. The fact that a convenient automatic movement now powers this watch is not the only modern refinement compared to the original. The new version also features an annual calendar and a large date display that takes the different month lengths—28, 30, and 31 days—into account, which means it would only need to be corrected during a leap year. 

 

Talking of timepieces tinged with nostalgia, it is hard to overlook GUCCI 25H—a beacon of retro aesthetic and modern execution. Evoking the sleek forms of contemporary architecture, GUCCI 25H variations are defined by streamlined silhouettes, ultra-thin profiles, and sharp, sculptured lines featuring contrasting finishes and an integrated bracelet, crown and bezel. Its two exquisite 40mm automatic editions fitted with the House’s GG727.25A calibre can be seen through a transparent case back. The styles are proposed with a captivating blue dial, one featuring a steel case, yellow gold bezel, and matching blue alligator strap, and another with a steel case and five-link bracelet. Additional 34 and 38mm quartz editions, crafted with an ultra-thin 4mm case, are presented with elegant coloured leather straps. Showcasing a steel or yellow gold-plated case and a silver or golden brass dial, the smaller versions feature a blue, red, or white strap, while the other two are offered with a refined black or blue shade.

 

Moreover, there are also some exquisite timepieces which were revered by collectors during the early ’90s 
and have been revived. For example, the revival of Daniel Roth begins with the Tourbillon Souscription, a meticulous homage to the brand’s original tourbillon wristwatch of 1988, a landmark watch that is now being reimagined by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Thirty five years after the brand was first founded, Daniel Roth is once again making its debut with a tourbillon. Executed in traditional yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, the case of the Tourbillon Souscription is naturally a double ellipse. To maximise the elegance of the Tourbillon Souscription, it has only a single face on the front, resulting in a case that is a mere 9.2mm high. The double ellipse case retains the proportions of the original, but with subtle refinements. The lugs are still carefully soldered by hand to the case middle, but they have been slightly reshaped to create an elegant downward arch, improving the ergonomics of the case. Like the case, the dial is a tribute to the brand’s history, but gently refined. Formed from a plate of solid yellow gold, it is decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche (a specific dial embossing) just as the original was. In a nod to contemporary independent watchmaking, the dial is produced in the mountain-top workshop of Kari Voutilainen, one of the leading independent watchmakers of today. Although the dial retains the same markings as on the original, the typography has been streamlined to give it contemporary finesse.

 

 

And then there are other enduring timepieces with incredible history and heritage that are lent a unique 
character thanks to an array of modern interpretations this season. Case in point being Panerai’s new Radiomir Otto Giorni, which references strong vintage aesthetics that expounds on its retro spirit. Showcasing a characteristic antiquated look, it is inspired by the very first Radiomir prototype in 1935, which measured 47mm in diameter. The 1935 model’s entirely new dimensions of its time and design were conceived by the need for excellent readability in often murky waters near military ports. Every Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look. The intently weathered effect of the eSteel case, created via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition), is paired with defining elements of the original Radiomir that was created for the Royal Italian Navy—cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs, and signature sandwich dial. The Super-LumiNova dial features a small seconds display at nine o’clock, the case has an open back, and the sapphire glass crystal is domed, reminiscent of the Plexiglass crystal of the past. The watch also has a cone-shaped crown—a design that distinguishes the Radiomir collection from other Panerai timepieces.It’s been a season of revisiting timeless classics and their contemporary revival. To mark the 60th anniversary of Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex ensures the legend lives on by revisiting the entire range. The dial receives new graphic balance, and harmonious colour combinations accentuate the contrast between the dial and the counters—or their rings. The Oyster case has been redesigned, and its profile is highlighted by the light reflections on the lugs and case sides. 
On versions with a Cerachrom bezel, the bezel is edged with a thin band of the same metal as the middle case.

 

 

All in all, reimagining house icons which have stayed relevant over decades with a contemporary spirit has emerged as one of the most defining watch trends this year.