How to get the benefits of a face oil when your skin is oily

I'm happy to report that despite all concerns to the contrary, adding a face oil to your routine won’t make your skin one bit greasier—just glowier. "Oils can actually strengthen your skin’s protective barrier, which keeps in good things like water and nutrients while also blocking microbes, pollutants and allergens," says Dr Sarah Villafranco, founder of skincare brand Osmia Organics. All this is essential for clear, healthy-looking skin—no matter your skin type. "It sounds counterintuitive, but using a face oil can make your skin less oily as it allows sebaceous glands (aka, the ones that pump out oil) to get into a more balanced state," says Dr Villafranco.

But here’s the catch: if you use the wrong facial oil or apply it the wrong way, your skin will become a shiny disco ball of clogged pores. 

Just follow these three rules and you’ll be absolutely golden.

Stick to plant-based oils low in saturated fat

"These oils penetrate the skin quickly with minimal residue," says dermatologist Dr Heather Rogers. She also recommends sticking to oils that are fragrance-free to avoid any irritation. Some popular low-saturated oils used in skincare include grapeseed oil, jojoba oil and sunflower oil, but if you have one you’re unsure of, look out for words like ‘lightweight’ and ‘non-comedogenic’ on the label and you should be good. "Also, you’ll want to use face oils that have a high amount of linoleic acid, like hempseed or rosehip oil," says Dr Villafranco. "Linoleic acid is great for oily skin because it helps to manage sebum production."

Stay far, far away from coconut oil

Yes, you read that right. I know everyone—from your grandmother to that influencer with amazing skin you follow—swears by it, but if you have oily skin, it’s a hard no. "Coconut oil is high in saturated fatty acid like lauric acid, which can build up in the top layer of your skin and cause excess shine and clogged pores," says Dr Villafranco. And while you’re at it, steer clear of mineral oil, too, says Dr Rogers. "It doesn’t soak in and sits on the surface of your skin."

Don’t just slather it on

"Try massaging a few drops into clean damp skin," says Dr Villafranco. The oil will sink in faster this way than, say, if you haphazardly rub it into dry skin—plus, it’ll help to lock in that extra moisture, too. Or you can mix a few drops with your serum or moisturiser. Start out using your face oil only at night and see how your skin reacts. If you like what you see, you can up your usage to twice a day.

This piece originally appeared in the December 2021/Jan 2022 print edition of Cosmopolitan UK