Chef Manuel Olveira's guide to flavours of Spain

I’m the chef and co-founder of La Loca Maria, a Spanish restaurant and La Panthera, a European restaurant in Mumbai. I run both alongside my wife and partner, Mickee Tuljapurkar. We built these places together, and they reflect who we are and the food we love.

Background and culinary journey

I grew up in Toledo, a small historic, UNESCO town in Spain. My mother, Maria, ran a restaurant there, serving simple, home-style Spanish food. I was introduced to restaurant life very early on, though I quickly realised one thing: I never wanted to work front-of-house. I was put there first, but it didn’t interest me at all. I wanted to be in the kitchen. Watching food being prepared, understanding techniques and seeing how a dish slowly comes together—that’s what excited me, and I knew I wanted to be a chef. After I graduated, I went to culinary school in Toledo and then worked in Michelin-starred kitchens in Spain. Later, I moved on to hotels like the St. Regis Saadiyat Island in Abu Dhabi and the Ritz-Carlton in Dubai. Eventually, that journey brought me to India, where I opened my first restaurant, La Loca Maria. 

Restaurants and cooking philosophy

La Loca Maria is my most direct expression of Spanish food and where I come from. It’s located in Bandra, and what started as a neighbourhood restaurant has grown into a place people visit specifically for Spanish food and the vibe. The cooking is modern Spanish but always rooted in tradition. It’s about honest flavours, great ingredients and food that’s meant to be shared. On the menu you’ll find tapas like cocas (Spanish flatbreads), gambas al ajillo (prawns) cooked in garlicky, paprika-laced olive oil, mushroom and truffle croquettes, and charred octopus. These are classic Spanish dishes, done in a way that feels current but still familiar.

We’re also known for our paella, Spain’s most iconic rice dish, and then there’s our La Loca Maria Tiramisu—a fun, slightly unexpected take on the traditional dessert and one people keep coming back for.

La Panthera is a modern European restaurant, born of years of travelling across Spain, Italy, France and Greece. What stayed with me wasn’t just the food, but the spaces—the art, the architecture, the feeling of eating somewhere relaxed yet special. European cooking, at its best, is comfort food with technique quietly doing the work. That’s what we wanted to bring to Mumbai. The menu is built around personal memories- like the Bloody Mary Ceviche, inspired by a meal by the sea in Greece. La Panthera is our take on European comfort food, cooked well, served in a space that feels welcoming and stylish in a European setting. No matter which restaurant I’m cooking for, the approach is the same. Flavour comes first, always. I like robust, comforting flavours made with great ingredients. If a dish tastes good, smells good and looks good, people remember it. And they return.

Personal connection to my native place

My entire family lives in Spain, so I travel back quite often. Every trip feels like a reminder of how much the country offers—food that changes from region to region, cities you can walk for hours, small towns full of history and an incredible relationship with art and architecture. You can go from the mountains to the coast in a few hours, from quiet villages to lively cities, and every place has its own rhythm. It’s easy to see why Spain is one of the most loved countries to travel through.

Spain in my food & lifestyle

One thing that really defines Spanish cooking is restraint. You don’t overload a dish or hide ingredients under heavy sauces. Flavours are clear, sauces are light, and the ingredients themselves are respected. When the produce is good, you don’t need to do much more. It influenced the way I approach everyday life. I don’t overcomplicate things. I value quality over quantity, whether it’s food, time or even how I spend my day. That balance is very Spanish.

Why Spain is worth visiting

Spain is the antithesis of anxious modern living. Life happens outside: in tapas bars, on the streets, in public squares. We talk loudly, sit through long meals and don’t rush the day. Spaniards are informal, expressive, fun, and everyday life feels social rather than structured. The entire country has stunning landscapes and a rich history, and in a few hours you can go from mountains to beaches, from vineyards to islands, and from old towns. Nothing feels too far away. You eat well here. You drink well. Wine is affordable, food is honest, and even a casual meal feels satisfying. Spanish food works because it’s simple and consistent, and food is made for the locals and not tampered with, so it feels authentic. Add it all up—the people, the food, the cities, the landscapes and the pace—and Spain gives you exactly what you want from a holiday. It’s easy, enjoyable, and gets the fundamentals right.

Top cities and regions to visit

Andalusia is deeply atmospheric. Flamenco, Moorish architecture, olive oil and soulful food. Cities like Seville and Granada feel emotional and expressive, especially in the evenings.

San Sebastián is a food city in the purest sense. Pintxos bars, serious cooking, incredible produce and a coastline that keeps pulling you back outside. Everything revolves around eating well and often.

The Canary Islands are dramatic, outdoorsy, and all about the Atlantic

Tenerife is a must-visit for its volcanic landscapes, beaches, forests, and year-round great weather. Very good if you like mixing nature with relaxed towns.

Lanzarote is striking and minimal. Black volcanic soil, white houses, vineyards growing out of lava fields. It feels raw and different from mainland Spain.

Asturias offers lush mountains, cliffs, forests, and beaches all in one place. You can hike in the morning and be by the sea in the afternoon. It is also known for Sidra (cider). Sidra is shared, poured for the table and drunk fresh. Cider houses are loud, casual and welcoming! Spain has some of the most important wine regions in the world. Go to Rías Baixas Cooler, greener and close to the sea. Famous for Albariño-fresh, crisp white wines that work perfectly with seafood or the Rioja, the most well-known Spanish wine region.

Hidden gems and personal favourites

Mallorca and Menorca, part of Spain's Balearic Islands, offer distinct Mediterranean experiences. Mallorca has the UNESCO-protected Serra de Tramuntana mountains, which you can drive through to reach smaller, beautiful towns like Deia, Soller, Formentor, and Valldemossa. Menorca is smaller, quieter and a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve known for pristine, secluded coves. Mallorca offers more nightlife and infrastructure, whereas Menorca provides a slower, more rural pace.

What to eat

Must-try dishes:

● Paella - Spain’s most iconic rice dish.

● Jamón Ibérico - Thinly sliced cured ham that’s rich, nutty and completely unique to Spain. Simple, but unforgettable.

● Tortilla Española - Just eggs, potatoes and olive oil. You’ll find it everywhere, and every version tastes a little different.

● Gambas al Ajillo - Prawns sizzling in olive oil with garlic and chilli. Best eaten straight from the pan with bread.

● Croquetas - Creamy on the inside, crisp on the outside. They can be filled with anything from ham to mushrooms or seafood.

● Churros with hot chocolate - Especially late at night or early morning.

● Seafood in Spain - If you love seafood, Spain is hard to beat. Some of the best meals are the simplest ones, especially by the coast.

● Grilled fish (a la plancha) - Fresh fish cooked simply with olive oil and salt. You’ll find this everywhere along the coast, and it’s always a good idea.

● Pulpo a la Gallega - Tender octopus with olive oil, paprika and salt.

● Boquerones - Fresh anchovies, either lightly fried or cured in vinegar.

● Calamares - Lightly battered squid, usually served with lemon.

● Shellfish - Clams, mussels, prawns: often cooked with very little seasoning so the seafood speaks for itself.

One standout experience:

One standout experience for me is the tapas bar culture in Spain. It’s not about one famous bar; it’s about how it works everywhere. You walk in, usually stand at the counter, order a drink and start with whatever looks good. Maybe anchovies on toast, maybe croquettes, maybe something sizzling coming off the grill behind the bar. You don’t stay too long. You eat, talk, finish your drink and move on to the next place down the street. Each bar does one or two things really well, and that’s the point. In places like San Sebastián, it turns into a full evening: pintxos lined up on the counter, people squeezing in, pointing at plates, glasses everywhere, conversations overlapping. What I love most is how informal it is. No reservations, no structure, no pressure to sit through a long meal. You’re standing, sharing, talking to strangers, eating little bits of everything. It’s social, spontaneous and very alive. That experience says more about Spain than any restaurant ever could.

What to do beyond food

One of the things I love most about Spain is its architecture, because it changes completely from region to region. You can feel the layers of history as you move through the country—from Moorish influences to Renaissance grandeur and bold modern design. Places like Plaza de España in Seville are incredibly striking, covered in colourful tiles and full of detail. In Granada, the Alhambra is unforgettable: quiet courtyards, intricate patterns. The Royal Alcázar of Seville shows how Islamic and Christian styles blend seamlessly, while Córdoba’s Mezquita is one of the clearest examples of Spain’s layered cultural history under one roof. And then there’s Barcelona’s Sagrada Família. Gaudí’s masterpiece that still feels alive and evolving. Spain’s architecture isn’t just something you admire, it’s something you experience as you walk, sit and spend time in these spaces.

How to reach Spain

Most international travellers fly into Madrid or Barcelona, both of which are well-connected globally.

Getting around locally

Spain’s train network is excellent. High-speed trains connect major cities. Regional trains and buses work well for smaller towns.

Best time to visit

April to June and September to October.

Practical travel tips (especially for Indian travellers)

● Lunch is late, dinner later, plan meals accordingly

● Reservations are essential at popular restaurants

● Learn a few Spanish phrases; it goes a long way

● Vegetarian options are improving, but researching ahead helps

● Walk more than you plan to; cities are built for it

Personal recommendation

My biggest recommendation is simple: Do not rush Spain. Eat slowly, travel light and leave space for things you didn’t plan.

Closing note

Spain shaped who I am. Mumbai gave me the space to express it. Through food, travel and shared tables, cultures don’t just meet, they start to understand each other.

Images: Chef Manuel Olveira, Turespaña and Getty Images 

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