Following Prada’s controversy, Adidas faces backlash over alleged use of Mexican sandal design

Fashion today is moving faster than ever, crossing borders in seconds and blending cultures into hybrid forms. Ideally, this cultural cross-pollination should honour its origins, but more often than not, it strips them away. In recent months, two separate incidents have stirred outrage, revealing how the world’s most celebrated luxury brands continue to profit from designs with deep traditional roots, while sidelining the artisans who have kept them alive for generations.

Earlier this year, Prada sparked global criticism when its runway in Milan featured sandals bearing a striking resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal. This handcrafted leather footwear, originating from the town of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, has been made for centuries by Indian artisans. The Italian fashion house presented the design as part of a contemporary collection, priced upwards of a lakh, without acknowledging its heritage. Public backlash was swift, prompting Prada to meet with artisans and address the omission.

The episode ignited a wider conversation about decolonising fashion and recognising the intellectual and cultural property of indigenous creators. But even before the dust had settled, another controversy emerged—this time from Mexico.

Adidas, in collaboration with designer Willy Chavarria, unveiled the Oaxaca Slip-On, inspired by the huarache sandal, a woven leather design historically crafted by indigenous Mexican artisans. The reinterpretation featured premium materials and a modern sole, but was reportedly manufactured in China with no engagement or partnership with the communities that originated it. Outrage poured in from cultural commentators, designers, and even the Mexican president, leading Adidas to issue an apology and acknowledge the misstep.

From Kolhapuris to huaraches, these cases reveal a troubling pattern in the global fashion industry—the commodification of heritage without reciprocity. True cultural exchange requires more than aesthetic borrowing; it demands collaboration, transparency, and fair compensation for the artisans whose craft is being reimagined. As fashion continues to blur borders, it faces a choice: to perpetuate appropriation or to embrace genuine, respectful co-creation.

Lead image: AI-generated
 

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