Will Demna's Gucci truly be more soul and less shock?

When Kering announced Demna Gvasalia as the new creative director of Gucci, the fashion world responded with equal parts surprise and excitement. Having cemented his position as a provocateur and couturier at Balenciaga—and earlier, as co-founder of Vetements—Demna was not the most obvious choice for a house steeped in Italian glamour and equestrian elegance. But the more one considers it, the more it makes sense. Gucci is a global fashion behemoth, and Demna is one of the few designers today with both the commercial savvy and cultural cachet to redefine what that means.

Replacing Sabato De Sarno, who exited the brand earlier this year, Gvasalia steps into a role that requires more than runway flair. At Gucci, where accessories and leather goods drive revenue, the creative lead must balance high-impact fashion and commercial appeal. Gvasalia's track record of fusing underground codes with luxury craftsmanship positions him uniquely to meet this challenge—and perhaps, to reinvent it.

Authenticity over algorithm: What Demna wants fashion to feel like

In a candid interview with Die Zeit published in late May, Gvasalia offered a rare insight into the philosophy he’s bringing to Gucci. Much of it revolves around authenticity, eschewing performative trends for a more personal, emotionally intelligent approach to dressing.

While known for pioneering the oversized silhouette, he made it clear he’s moved on. “I’ve been there, I’ve done that,” he remarked, noting that the once-subversive shape has become ubiquitous and overused. But he isn’t rushing toward slim fits either—he jokingly warned against fashion becoming a world of “sausages,” advocating instead for balance, ease, and comfort. For Gvasalia, fashion isn’t about extremes—it’s about what makes you feel good in your skin.

He also reflected on his changing relationship with his body and how that informs his evolving design language. Once reliant on volume to obscure, he now embraces more streamlined shapes as a personal expression of confidence. “It’s part of my connection with my body,” he shared, underscoring that clothing should support identity, not override it.

Melding heritage with a global outlook

Gvasalia’s next challenge is to integrate his design instincts with Gucci’s deeply layered codes. Unlike Balenciaga, where ready-to-wear dominated, Gucci’s success depends on an entire ecosystem—from eyewear and perfumes to handbags and horsebit loafers. This calls for a more holistic, accessible approach, which he is well-equipped to deliver.

He is, after all, a designer who sees the street as much as the salon. His democratic, socially conscious vision has long resisted elitism. As only the second non-Italian at the helm since Tom Ford, he brings a much-needed global perspective. And unlike at Balenciaga, where he often leaned into dystopian maximalism, Gucci offers a platform for emotional warmth and self-expression—values he seems ready to embrace more deeply in this new role.

What to expect from Demna’s Gucci

Expect less shock and more soul. Gvasalia’s Gucci won’t likely abandon spectacle—his couture shows at Balenciaga were career-defining—but they may lean into intimacy, relatability, and personal narrative. He’ll likely amplify real-world identities rather than obscure them, creating fashion that honours diversity, emotional well-being, and everyday luxury.

His task is not only to elevate Gucci’s creative voice but to recalibrate it for a new generation—one that values authenticity as much as aesthetics. With a refined yet disruptive sensibility, Gvasalia is poised to lead Gucci into a more emotionally intelligent era. The house’s future, under his direction, will likely balance design authority and vulnerability, offering a style that speaks to both the soul and the street.

Gucci’s next era under Demna Gvasalia promises to be one of clarity, courage, and cultural relevance. It’s not about rewriting the house’s story but expanding it—one real person, real body, and real feeling at a time. As the fashion industry continues to wrestle with its future, Gvasalia's Gucci could very well become the most honest, human-forward chapter yet.

Lead image: Getty Images 

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