#SkinSchool: Everything to know about the 'retinol purge'

Retinol is often hailed as the gold standard ingredient of skincare, and for good reason. A form of vitamin A, its benefits range from improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, and preventing acne, not to mention increasing skin-cell turnover for a renewed and revitalised complexion. It also boosts collagen production, for firmer and plumper skin. Some kind of superhero cape is surely on order.

However, you may also have heard tell about how retinol can cause redness, irritation and dryness, with your skin looking lacklustre rather than glowing as it gets accustomed to this powerful ingredient during the 'purging' period.

So, what is retinol purging? Can anything be done to prevent it? And just how long can you expect it to last? Allow us to explain.

Meet the experts:
Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist and the founder of Self London.

Teresa Tarmey is a celebrity facialist and skin expert.

What is retinol purge, and why does it happen?
Retinol purging refers to the temporary skin flare-up that can occur when you first introduce retinol or other retinoids into your skincare routine. Think breakouts, redness, sensitivity, and peeling—not ideal. But while this reaction might, understandably, alarm retinol newbies, it’s a classic case of things getting worse before they get better.

“It happens because retinol increases skin-cell turnover, bringing underlying congestion to the surface more rapidly than usual,” explains Dr Anjali Mahto. “Essentially, the retinoid is speeding up a process that would have naturally occurred over a longer period, condensing several weeks or months of skin activity into a shorter timeframe. It's not that the retinol is causing acne but rather unearthing and resolving underlying blemishes more quickly.”

Those who suffer from acne might be more likely than others to experience purging but should be reassured that it’s a normal and expected—if frustrating—process. “Over time, as the skin adjusts, breakouts should lessen, and the complexion should appear clearer, smoother, and more even in tone,” says Dr Mahto.

How long does retinol purging last, and does it recur?
Mercifully, purging is usually a temporary process, and should ease within four to six weeks, as your skin adjusts to the retinol. “It’s really important to allow your skin to build up tolerance, so my first advice for any retinol users is to go low and slow; I advise using a low concentration every other night for the first two to three weeks,” says Teresa Tarmey. “Everyone is different, but consistency and patience are key—your skin will thank you in the long run.”

If the irritation and redness last beyond eight weeks, it may be a sign that the formulation isn’t suitable for your skin, and the best thing to do is to pause use and see a dermatologist. “Once your skin has acclimatised, the purge should not recur unless you significantly increase the strength of your retinol, or restart it after a long break,” adds Dr Mahto.

How do you know it’s retinol purging, and not something else?
While retinol purging is a completely normal process, for some people, skin reacts to retinol in a way that goes beyond what would typically be expected. More severe irritation or allergic reactions, for example, may also present with redness and increased sensitivity, making it difficult to know what’s what. However, there are ways to tell the difference.

According to Dr Mahto, a purge typically occurs in areas where you already experience breakouts, and takes the form of small whiteheads, pustules, or minor flare-ups that resolve relatively quickly.

“In contrast, irritation from retinol manifests as widespread redness, peeling, burning, or excessive dryness, often in areas where you don’t normally break out,” she warns. “An allergic reaction, on the other hand, may cause swelling or intense itching.”

Lead image: Harper's Bazaar

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