Do hair growth serums really work?
Toying with the idea of trying a hair growth serum? Read this before you do…
Be it influencers, neighbours, colleagues, or friends—everyone seems to be talking about hair growth serums these days. Which makes us wonder, are we missing out on some ‘mane character’ energy? Should we be massaging these trending products into our scalps for a headful of healthy hair, too? And why such a steady surge in popularity of these in the first place?! Let’s dive right in.
Hair’s the hype
We spoke to Dr Madhuri Agarwal, an expert, celebrity dermatologist, and founder and medical director of Yavana Skin & Hair Clinic, who gave us some answers. “Multiple factors have contributed to the rise of the hair growth serum market. Increased stress due to work demands, increased pollution, and lifestyle changes have led to more frequent hair loss among younger populations. I see individuals in their mid-twenties now experiencing concerns that were once common only in older age groups. The influence of social media has heightened awareness of physical appearance, prompting early recognition of issues such as hair thinning.” She also feels there is a growing trend toward preventive care, with people looking for solutions before hair loss becomes severe.
Dr Agarwal also opines that the cosmetic industry has adjusted its marketing strategies, promoting hair care products as accessible and non-medical options suitable for home use. Add to that, India’s weather conditions, including heat and humidity, contribute to widespread hair and scalp concerns, making these serums appear to be practical solutions.
Do they work?
So, do hair growth serums really make a difference then? The simple answer is yes—but only in certain cases.
Dr Agarwal shares that hair growth serums are most beneficial for individuals experiencing early signs of hair thinning, stress-related hair loss, or those wanting to improve overall hair density. They also work well for individuals experiencing androgenetic alopecia, i.e. common male and female pattern hair loss during its early to moderate stages, as well as for those with telogen effluvium, which refers to temporary hair loss caused by factors such as stress, hormonal changes, or nutritional deficiencies.
“These formulations are not intended as cures for advanced pattern baldness. They’re generally less effective for advanced stages of hair loss in which follicles are inactive. In such cases, the likelihood of regrowth is significantly reduced,” points out Dr Agarwal, adding that the efficacy of hair growth serums may vary depending on individual circumstances; however, some products can be effective when appropriate ingredients are selected and expectations remain realistic.
So, what sort of ingredients should one look for in a hair growth serum, we wonder? “Choose serums with minoxidil (2% or 5%), as it’s the best-proven topical for hair regrowth. Peptides, especially copper peptides, can stimulate hair follicles. Plant-based options like saw palmetto extract, caffeine, and adenosine show promise.” She advises steering clear of serums with unclear or harsh ingredients and exaggerated claims. Furthermore, it is always advisable to consult a board-certified dermatologist to pick an appropriate serum for your specific hair concern.
The science of strands
Serums work in two main ways: they strengthen existing hair to reduce hair fall and help extend the natural growth phase of your hair. This process supports retention of current hair while promoting new growth, and thus, a noticeable reduction in hair fall may be observed within four to six weeks of regular use. The effect is attributed to improvements in the overall health of hair follicles and increased blood circulation to the scalp. For breakage caused by mechanical damage such as heat styling, chemical treatments or rough brushing, a more comprehensive approach is required.
Not for everyone
If you’re wondering if it’s for you, read on. Dr Agarwal tells us that individuals with oily scalps may observe more rapid results due to improved penetration of the active ingredients. However, those with sensitive or dry scalps should exercise caution and may consider initiating treatment with lower concentrations.
She cautions that pregnant or breastfeeding women should avoid most hair growth serums, especially those with minoxidil. Those with active scalp conditions such as severe seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, or fungal infections should treat these conditions before using growth serums, as applying serums to inflamed scalps can worsen the issue. “If you notice sudden, patchy hair loss, consult a dermatologist instead of self-treating with serums, as this may signal medical attention. People with advanced hair loss are unlikely to benefit from regrowth serums as their follicles are typically beyond recovery,” she reveals.
Inside-out growth
“While serums can contribute to hair strength from the root, adjusting hair care routines is also necessary to address this issue effectively,” says Dr Agarwal. "Healthy hair starts with good nutrition,” she says. Common deficiencies in iron, vitamin D, or protein often cause thinning in India. Supplements like iron, vitamin D, and zinc can help, but always get a blood test first—excess vitamins can be harmful. Also, micronutrients such as selenium, magnesium, and omega-3 are helpful when it comes to healthy hair growth, so don’t ignore these.
“Severe cases of hair loss may require prescription treatments such as finasteride for men, spironolactone for women or in-clinic procedures like PRP and exosomes, which are becoming popular. Low-level laser devices are also available, though the evidence is still mixed,” she adds.
Dr Agarwal signs off by saying, “Hair loss is tough, but use hair growth serums with patience—they aren’t instant fixes.”
Lead image: Getty Images
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