Travelling off the beaten track in New Zealand

My husband and I got married last summer, and having already explored much of Europe, we wanted to spend our honeymoon somewhere that would be new to us—so we picked, quite literally, the other side of the world. We had both longed to visit New Zealand or, to use its Maori name, Aotearoa, which means the land of the long white cloud—for its otherworldly landscapes and opportunities for adventure and relaxation. So it was that, after a mere 29 hours of travelling, we found ourselves picking up our Subaru at Christchurch airport on the eastern side of the South Island, ready to embark on a 1,500-mile road trip.

As we headed northwards, the scenery began to change; within a matter of miles we had driven past stunning seascapes, up mountains and across long flat valleys. Our first destination was Kaikoura, where we ventured into the Pacific Ocean to swim with a pod of wild dusky dolphins, before warming up with a seafood barbecue. We snaked our way further up the coast and into Marlborough, the world-renowned wine region, where we made a pitstop at Cloudy Bay’s famous vineyard for a tasting. Then, with our taste buds still tingling and our bags packed with a few bottles of the Pelorus sparkling rosé (our personal favourite), it was time to hop back in the car, tune in to the local radio station and hit the road again for the three-hour drive west to the Abel Tasman National Park.

Our home for the next two nights was to be the Split Apple Retreat, a sanctuary of quiet beauty that offers access to a private beach and unrivalled views across the park. Set up by Dr Lee Nelson and his wife Pen, an accomplished chef, it houses a centuries-old collection of Asian art and just three guest suites. On arrival, we were invited to put on a yukata (a summer kimono) and a pair of house slippers, before heading out into the grounds to soak in the 40-degree water of the onsen bath and swim in the infinity pool. After a rejuvenating aromatherapy massage and meditation session, it was time for dinner–a health-conscious four-course set menu prepared by Pen, featuring some spectacular coconut tempura prawns with tamarind sauce. We ate outside while listening to Lee’s stories about the pair’s adventures around Asia, and watching the sky take on shades of pastel.

When darkness fell, we retired to our luxury suite with its oceanfront views and two private decks, and gazed out of the window at the constellations; the property is in a dark-sky reserve, making its stargazing among the best in the world. We woke to the sound of tuis, boisterous birds with electric-blue and green wings, feasting on the flax-plant seedlings outside our window. After breakfast on the terrace, we strolled through the gardens–being careful not to disturb the nesting little blue penguins–towards the private beach, where we were picked up by the local water taxi. It ferried us to the lush woodlands of Torrent Bay, from which we made the three-hour hike along the coast to Bark Bay, enjoying a picnic on the way. 

The next morning, feeling both mentally and physically restored, we bade a fond farewell to the Split Apple team, and set off down South Island’s rugged west coast. En route, we paused to marvel at the 12-kilometre-long Franz Josef Glacier, the fastest-moving and steepest in the country, and to look for kiwis–a national icon and, thanks to an effective local regeneration programme, now no longer endangered. We spent a few days by the crystal-clear Lakes Wanaka and Hawea, where we divided our time between hiking, paragliding and swimming in the glacial waters, afterwards rewarding ourselves with a drink at one of the many local breweries. Suitably energised, we took to the highway driving through the tussock-covered Lindis Valley towards our next stop. The Lindis Hotel is set in 6,000 acres of land in the Ahuriri Valley, and looks out over snow-capped mountains, vast plains and a network of meandering rivers (all fishable with a guide). Made primarily of wood, glass and bluestone, the lodge is designed to blend into the countryside, its sinuous roof echoing the curvature of the mountains, while the interiors are modern yet cosy, with expanses of timber offset by soft furnishings in stylish neutral shades, and floor-to-ceiling windows that make the most of the incredible scenery e our window. After breakfast on the terrace, we strolled through the gardens–being careful not to disturb the nesting little blue penguins–towards the private beach, where we were picked up by the local water taxi. It ferried us to the lush woodlands of Torrent Bay, from which we made the three-hour hike along the coast to Bark Bay, enjoying a picnic on the way. The next morning, feeling both mentally and physically restored, we bade a fond farewell to the Split Apple team, and set off down South Island’s rugged west coast. En route, we paused to marvel at the 12-kilometre-long Franz Josef Glacier, the fastest-moving and steepest in the country, and to look for kiwis–a national icon and, thanks to an effective local regeneration programme, now no longer endangered. We spent a few days by the crystal-clear Lakes Wanaka and Hawea, where we divided our time between hiking, paragliding and swimming in the glacial waters, afterwards rewarding ourselves with a drink at one of the many local breweries.

Suitably energised, we took to the highway driving through the tussock-covered Lindis Valley towards our next stop. The Lindis Hotel is set in 6,000 acres of land in the Ahuriri Valley, and looks out over snow-capped mountains, vast plains and a network of meandering rivers (all fishable with a guide). Made primarily of wood, glass and bluestone, the lodge is designed to blend into the countryside, its sinuous roof echoing the curvature of the mountains, while the interiors are modern yet cosy, with expanses of timber offset by soft furnishings in stylish neutral shades, and floor-to-ceiling windows that make the most of the incredible scenery outside. Guests are spoilt for choice when it comes to activities, which include fly-fishing, clay-pigeon shooting, walking trails, farm tours and horse-riding. The latter, we were relieved to hear, was open to all abilities, so even though neither of us had ridden for decades, we were able to explore the farmland on horseback for several hours. After all that exertion, it was a joy to sink into the hot-tub with some sparkling wine while admiring the views, listening to the wildlife and watching black swans land on the river.

Although we could happily have stayed much longer, we had one final stopover on our itinerary: Pure Pods near Christchurch, a five-hour drive north-east from the Lindis. Here, surrounded by manuka-tree-lined hills and with views over the bay of Port Levy, we spent our last night in New Zealand truly immersed in its majestic landscape, staying in a solar-powered glass cabin accessible only on foot, through fields and bushland. When we arrived at the pod, there was a large hamper awaiting us that contained a beautifully presented sharing platter of meats and cheeses, homemade crostini and dips. Later on, we lit the barbecue and cooked ourselves a dinner of locally reared beef and vegetable skewers, which we ate while watching the sun slowly sink beneath the horizon. We played card games and peered through the telescope at the night sky as the swallows swooped around us, revelling in being closer to nature than ever before.

This piece originally appeared in Bazaar UK.