The new generation of restaurateurs is all about on quality over quantity

The restaurant industry in India is a saturated space, and for years, the formula for opening a new spot leaned heavily on scale. Sprawling interiors, multi-cuisine menus, endless seating options, and a concept designed to impress at first glance that, in today’s digital age, chase virality. In short, the focus is often on making a grand impact rather than on the finer details. But not all restaurateurs believe in grandiosity. The new(er) wave of chefs and owners is pivoting towards a less-is-more and quality-over-quantity ideal, with limited but focused menus, smaller spaces, and a more intentional experience to leave the strongest impression. And the results have proven that focus and intention can make a restaurant experience truly unforgettable, keeping diners coming back time after time.

At the India Today Conclave 2025, three chefs shared how they’re rethinking the rules: Kavan Kuttappa of Naaru Noodle Bar, Akhil Iyer of Benne, and Yash Bhanage of Hunger INC Hospitality, the team behind Papa’s and some of the most popular restaurants in the city.

Each has a different approach, but they all agree on one thing: doing less can mean doing better. And with the buzz surrounding their respective restaurants, it’s easy to see why they may be right.

One dish, done perfectly

Naaru Noodle Bar has become one of Bengaluru’s most talked-about dining addresses, despite its understated presence. Tucked into a compact space that seats barely 20, the restaurant runs on an online-only reservation system and serves a tightly edited menu centred on ramen. Its exclusivity has only added to the frenzy; the slots open on Monday nights and disappear within minutes, with diners scrambling for a chance to snag a table. Naaru doesn’t care about chasing trends or theatrics; the brand’s appeal lies in its restraint. Every little detail, from the pared-back space to the focused menu, is designed to let the ramen take centre stage.

When asked about being a “one-dish wonder” with ramen, founder Kavan Kuttappa shares that he embraced the idea of it. “If you want something and you know that’s the only place you can get it, you’re going to go there,” he says. He points to legacy spots in Mumbai and Bangalore, where people will travel just for one perfect dosa or a specific dish. In a world chasing the next big thing, Naaru proves that mastery and consistency can turn a restaurant into a destination.

It’s about how you feel, not just how it looks

Papa’s is unlike anything else in Mumbai’s dining scene. A 12-seater chef’s counter hidden above Veronica’s in Bandra, it offers a tasting-menu-only experience led by Chef Hussain Shahzad as a tribute to the late Floyd Cardoz (“Papaji”). The space is intimate, warm, and carefully detailed—wood finishes, hand-blown lamps, and an open kitchen that makes guests feel like part of the process. With only a handful of seats, scoring a reservation here feels like being let in on a secret, and that sense of exclusivity has only amplified its cult following.

Yash Bhanage, co-founder of Hunger INC Hospitality, explains that Papa’s is meant to push fine dining beyond appearances. “Fine dining restaurants in India were initially designed to be seen at—where you take a picture and tell your friends about it.” For him, it isn’t about making a restaurant “look” good, but about making people feel something when they walk out. “How a fine dining restaurant can stand out is the way you make people feel when they’re there,” he says. It’s a shift from restaurants built for Instagram feeds to restaurants designed for memory.

Small spaces, big impact

Meanwhile, Benne, in Bandra, has turned the simple dosa into a citywide obsession. The space is smaller, the menu is limited, and the restaurant easily draws out long queues of customers, and that’s exactly what makes it so magnetic. Serving Bengaluru-style benne dosas—fluffy, buttery, and golden at the edges—alongside classics like idli and filter coffee, Benne thrives on doing a few things exceptionally well. Its minimalism feels refreshing in a city where restaurants often overwhelm with choice, and the younger crowd, surprisingly, has embraced it wholeheartedly.

Founder Akhil Iyer believes this is the power of starting small. “If you’re doing something specific and intentionally, people will give you a chance,” he says. Benne’s pared-down menu and focus on quality ingredients have built both hype and loyalty. His advice to young restaurateurs? “Don’t open a 400-seater. Start small, perfect your product, and then scale.” Bene is proof that virality may bring diners through the door, but it's the quality and consistency that keep them coming back for more! 

Naaru’s one-dish focus, Papa’s emphasis on emotional connection, and Benne’s small-scale set-up all point to the same thing: intention and clarity matter. In an industry that is often obsessed with grand gestures, these restaurants prove that doing less—and doing it exceptionally well—is how you build something people remember and keep coming back to.

Lead image credit: Benne, Naaru Noodle Bar, Papa’s Bombay 

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