Our first look at Mumbai’s newest globally-inspired bakery with an Indian heart

Nestled in a corner of the now flourishing Laxmi Mills compound that houses Masque, the ingredient-led fine-dining restaurant that featured in the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list this year, is a brand-new bakery by the same team. 

TwentySeven Bakehouse, which opens to the public on August 27, is named so because of what it aims to vouch for—freshly baked goods 24/7. “...also because the sum comes to a lucky number,” says Aditya Dugar, director of the hospitality group behind Masque, Sage & Saffron, and Seesaw Cafe, which he helms together with his wife Aditi Dugar.

With TwentySeven Bakehouse, Dugar says the idea is to move into building brands that can be scaled. “There can only be one Masque, but with this new bakery we wanted to explore the opportunity of expanding into the retail space,” he explains. He plans to use it as a central kitchen that can source its offerings to other restaurants and cafes.

The cozy 400ish sq. feet bake house is built on two levels with a cobalt blue and white facade that helps it stand out from the crowd. And that was the intention, Aditi Dugar says. “We weren’t going for a specific Mediterranean vibe with the colours. We just wanted to stick out from the sea of browns and pinks you usually see in the baking space.” 
The front of the bakery has an arch, which finds an important spot in the design language of the brand–from the logo to the back of the kitchen team’s t-shirts. The arch is an ode to the Mumbai mills, and a symbolic representation of a rising loaf of bread. To think of the thought that has gone into each inch of the design aesthetic of this place!

Since TwentySeven is more a cloud kitchen and less a sit-down bakery, extra effort has been made to make it interactive. The glass door and charming pick-up window let you in on all the action, much like a live pizza counter or ramen bar. The day of our visit is windy and overcast, so the inviting warmth and aroma of the freshly baked goods wafting from the kitchen are welcome joys. The team of five, led by head chef Rachelle Andrade (of Mag St Bread Co and Qualia fame), is busy preparing for their pop-up at the IMC, Jio World Convention Centre—weighing carrots, zesting oranges, and readying trays of buttery croissant for baking as we speak.

When it comes to their food, ‘a window to the world of no-bullsh*t baking’ is the motto. “We’re all about no-fuss and no-fluff, just pure flavour,” says Dugar. 

TwentySeven’s mission is to offer a bite of cultures from around the world through its bakes—including inspiration from their recent trip to Israel. So don’t be surprised to find a cream cheese and za’atar croissant on the menu—they lugged the spice in kilos all the way from the country. There are Israeli florentines too, which are Andrade’s pick for those who are up for trying something new.
And the inspiration is not limited to only their recent travels. Biscuit lovers will obsess over the alfajores–South American shortbreads that melt in your mouth–with in-house dulce de leche sandwiched in between.
The French classics are all there too. The palmiers are as big as the palm of your hand and come with deliciously caramelized corners. The kouign amann is downright indulgent (as it should be)–take your pick of dark chocolate ganache or salted caramel. Carrot cake fans wouldn’t dare to miss Andrade’s version that is topped with a generous slather of cream cheese frosting speckled with the zest of Malta oranges. 

Andrade also wanted to create a show-stopper for TwentySeven, similar to the cruffin she popularized at Mag St. And this one is the croissant cube, which, with its unique form and flaky layers, has all the makings of a bestseller. 

Most of the dishes are vegetarian-friendly, with just one non-vegetarian number (the Goan chorizo and potato pie). They also cater to different diets without compromising on taste or texture—their date cake made with almond and oat flour is impossibly fluffy and impossible to decipher as being gluten-free.

For the savoury enthusiasts, choose from their basketful of breads—from the infamous sourdough to New York-style bagels, soft burger buns to good ol’ whole wheat loaves. The olive tapenade and cream cheese twist is a must-have—the flaky braided pastry topped with olives and capers gives way to a luxuriously creamy middle. So is the roasted tomato and pesto danish, which is sprinkled with just the right dose of microgreens to give a spark of freshness to the richness.
You’ll find this well-thought balance throughout the dishes. And, bar a few items, most of the ingredients are locally sourced or made in-house. Dugar explains, “We don’t want to copy paste what we like on our trips...instead our aim is to bring international flavour to local ingredients.”

Both Dugar and Andrade point out that the menu isn’t set in stone. “We’re open to incorporating fresh seasonal produce and more ingredients from our travels”, says Dugar. “We might even have special additions,” quips Andrade. Add plans for bread subscription services, pan-India deliveries, and fun events to the mix, and the future looks delicious with TwentySeven. 

TwentySeven Bakehouse opens to the public August 27. Orders will be available for pickup and via Thrive and Swiggy from 9 am-5pm, Mon-Sun. Unit 27, Shree Laxmi Woollen Mills, Shakti Mills Lane, off Dr. E. Moses Road, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai–400 011.

All images: TwentySeven Bakehouse