An exclusive Jodhpur travel guide by couturier Raghavendra Rathore

My earliest recollections of Jodhpur are of me running through the jaali (lattice) corridors of the zanana (women’s) section of my home, Ajit Bhawan, into my grandmother’s lap. She was the central figure of the house, surrounded by a constant buzz of activity—it was a multifaceted world where women were the decision-makers, surrounded by textile merchants from Benaras, jewellers from across India, perfumers with their delicate bottles, and waves of ladies who would come to pay respects to her, not only since she was married into the Jodhpur family, but also because she was the sister of the Maharaja of Jaipur. From here, I would find my way to my mother’s chambers, where she would let me muddle my hands with paints and canvas that she put to good use during her time in purdah, while training me how to sketch and draw. 
 

In contrast, the mardana (men’s) section on the ground floor level had a strong sense of masculinity both in atmosphere and architecture, a contrast to the delicately-designed upper floor. Surrounded by an unparalleled history, where each brick carries the story of the humble beginnings of our family, as well as the history of this part of Rajasthan, Ajit Bhawan was built in 1927. It is nestled between the Umaid Bhawan Palace which sits on a hill and the Mehrangarh Fort that towers over Jodhpur, as a guardian of the city. Between the two World Wars, when Duke Ellington was a rage and the Ford Model A car was first introduced to the world, the palace was fashioned with a distinct regional look and served as the residence of the then Prime Minister of Jodhpur, Maharaja Ajit Singh, the youngest brother of the Maharaja of Jodhpur. The red sandstone architecture was designed to accommodate the family’s lifestyle and also the moods of the desert of Marwar—large rooms surrounding a rectangular courtyard in the centre of the building, while annexes and staff quarters lay beyond these walls.

The property’s grand dome, flanked by smaller domes in its four corners, has made it recognizable anywhere in the world today. For many years, Ajit Bhawan was an enchanting waterhole for local dignitaries, writers, artists, distant travellers, thinkers, folklore researchers, and photographers, bringing together an eclectic energy. This is, perhaps, one of the reasons why the property remains an original oasis amongst the plethora of new hotels in the Blue City.
 

 

Managed by my mother, brother, and myself, the spirit of the boutique hotel remains that of recreating such conversations, friendships, camaraderie, and unique experiences. From having visitors from across the globe and guests of the family, such as Calvin Klein, Peter O’Toole, Amitabh Bachchan, and H.H Sheikh Hamad of Qatar, many have passed through this haven and each one leaves their footprints, adding to the legacy of Ajit Bhawan. I remember, during one of my visits back to Jodhpur from New York in 1994, my cousin Maharaja Gaj Singh and the late Martand Singh Kapurthala sat me down to discuss a fashion event. It was to be part of the celebrations they were planning for the silver jubilee of the magnificent art deco Mahal, Umaid Bhawan Palace. I was due to be back for assisting with the Paris presentation by Mr Oscar de la Renta, however, after much thought, I realized that this was my opportunity to discover Jodhpur and, through Jodhpur, the rest of India.

With no setup as such and a shoestring budget, I set out into the narrow streets of the city, in search of inspiration, trims, fabrics, tailors, and, quite frankly, a team that would help me put together this amazing showcase. Jodhpur’s Nai Sadak (New Street) is the doorway to the old city, leading to the Sardar Market and charming Ghanta Ghar or clock tower. This bazaar entices all the senses with its many vendors selling various merchandise—pigeonhole shops of jewellery, textile, and clothing; open-air fresh spice stacks; and local food stops—all of which served as my doorway to the historic city like it does to many, today. A day in Jodhpur would be incomplete without snacking on the world-famous kachoris (which are a weekend staple on the lunch table) or mirchi badas from Janta Sweet Home.
 

Travellers find themselves navigating the streets for authentic Jodhpur buys such as leheriya (now famous, world-over) and bandhani, while world-renowned interior designers have always found a treasure trove in the handicraft yards (which, today, is hailed as a global industry in itself). A heritage walk in the walled city offers more to be explored, where you can stop at various cafés and buzzing restaurants for a quick bite or a full Rajasthani fare. For a vintage twist, the car museum at Khas Bagh transports you to the old-world charm of classic automobiles, complete with yesteryear’s glamour.

The Blue City has to be explored intimately, as not doing so would be an injustice to yourself. When the guests return to the hotel after a full day of escapade, I am told that the pool area is the go-to spot. If ever there was a fashion show of pools, the one at Ajit Bhawan, without a doubt, would be the showstopper. At times, it’s a tough debate for visitors between venturing out again or simply lounging about and ordering the signature laal maas with roti, or paneer Jodhpuri for vegetarians. Without being biased, I must admit that my favourite roti in the world is our mirchi parantha, wherein only mathania mirchi (one of the best varieties of chilli in India) is used, grown locally on farms about an hour and a half away from Jodhpur. And when the time comes to bid adieu to Jodhpur, and you are on your back on the road again, the property’s jungle extension, the Rawla Narlai villa hotel awaits with the same spirit—this time in nature, where one can explore the land of the leopard or simply enjoy the 30-plus-room property and bask in what is a whole new experience.
 

When I think back, I know that life was not about what we had but how we experienced it, and this is the ethos my parents had in mind when they pioneered the heritage hotel industry in India. Ajit Bhawan’s legacy is because of Jodhpur and more so, the inclusion of the people and spaces of the city. My father always said, ‘Build something with an authentic story and one that excites the human senses, intrigue, and the lust to know and experience more...then leave the rest to the universe. Much of this thought must have also come from his formative years at Ajit Bhawan; thoughts, principles, and learnings that I infused into my bespoke menswear brand, as well. The brand, with a 1200-year-old legacy of tradition, is woven together by the threads of a rich culture and a didactic code of conduct. By embedding these whispers of Jodhpur, much of which I owe to Ajit Bhawan, my endeavour remains to be able to offer this experience to others.

Walking these corridors that hold tales of nearly 100 years, I often wonder what the future of our heritage will look like in another decade or so. Moments of distilled luxury are what will truly define an experience, for even though we feel we have the world in the palms of our hands, any moment could be unprecedented.
 

Photos: Raghavendra Rathore