Chef Romy Gill brings her story of India to The Pem  

The feather at The Pem has always been a symbol of women who chose to write their own stories. Inspired by suffragette Emily Wilding Davison, whose family knew her as Pem, it speaks to courage, creative expression, and the freedom to follow one’s own path. Now, that emblem finds a fitting new chapter in Romy Gill MBE. One of Britain’s most celebrated Indian chefs, Gill brings a lifetime of culinary memories to the restaurant, tracing the breadth of India through the flavours of Punjab, Bengal, Kerala, and Rajasthan. Her food is rooted in tradition, a reflection of the women who taught her, the journeys that shaped her, and her instinct to tell stories in her own way.

As she begins this new chapter, Gill speaks to Harper’s Bazaar India about the making of her culinary identity, and why the most meaningful recipes are often the ones we inherit. 

Harper’s Bazaar India: You’ve cooked across continents, bringing Indian cuisine into some of the world’s most exciting conversations. What does it mean to create a new chapter for The Pem, a space with such a strong legacy of its own?

Romy Gill: For me, it feels like both an honour and a responsibility. The Pem already has such a strong sense of identity, and that’s something I deeply respect. Sally Abe created a restaurant with real character, and you don’t step into a space like that trying to replace what came before. You listen to it, you honour it, and then you bring your own perspective.

My cooking has always been shaped by the people who influenced me, the ingredients I grew up with, and everything I’ve learnt through years of travelling and cooking in different kitchens. This new chapter is an opportunity to celebrate the richness of Indian cuisine in a way that feels elegant, generous and true to who I am, while allowing The Pem to continue evolving. 

It's not about changing its identity; it's about contributing a new chapter to its story.  

HB: Your cooking is deeply rooted in memory, place, and the people who shaped you. How do you translate personal history into an experience that feels universal?

RG: Everything begins with where you’ve come from, but it shouldn’t end there. The people who shaped me and the food I grew up with give me a foundation, but every experience since has added a new layer.

What I hope guests experience is something that feels welcoming and genuine. Indian food has incredible depth and diversity, and I want to share that through flavours that are both familiar and surprising. Whether someone has grown up with these dishes or is discovering them for the first time, the experience should feel generous, joyful, and memorable.

Food doesn’t have to tell your life story; it simply has to make people feel something.

HB: The Pem has always celebrated courage, creativity, and challenging conventions. How does that spirit resonate with your own journey?

RG: It resonates because my own career has never followed a straight path. I've learnt to trust my instincts, embrace new opportunities, and keep evolving as a chef.  

For me, courage isn’t always loud. Sometimes it’s choosing a different path or believing your own point of view. Creativity comes from being curious–from travelling, listening, learning, and constantly discovering something new.

Indian cuisine has extraordinary elegance and complexity, and I’ve always wanted to present it with confidence while remaining respectful of where it comes from. Challenging convention isn’t about leaving tradition behind; it’s about showing it in a fresh and thoughtful way.  

HB: Indian cuisine is incredibly diverse, yet global conversations around it often focus on a few familiar narratives. How important is it for you to showcase the regional stories, ingredients and traditions that exist beyond the expected?

RG: It’s incredibly important because there is no single definition of Indian cuisine. Every region has its own ingredients, techniques, traditions and identity, and that’s what makes it so exciting.

I want to celebrate those regional stories, from produce to spice blends and the way a dish is prepared. It’s about respecting the generations of knowledge and craftsmanship.

For me, it’s about broadening people’s understanding of Indian food without making it feel unfamiliar. The richness has always been there; I simply want to shine a light on it. 

HB: From Punjab and Bengal, to Kerala and Kashmir, your menu journeys through different landscapes of India. How do you approach preserving authenticity while creating something fresh and contemporary?

RG: I don't think authenticity means preserving a dish exactly as it was decades ago. Food has always evolved. Ingredients change, people travel, cultures influence one another, and recipes naturally develop over time.

For me, authenticity comes from understanding the origins of a dish, its region, ingredients and techniques, and treating those with respect. Once you have that understanding, you can cook with honesty while allowing your own experiences to shape the final result.

India's regional cuisines are wonderfully distinct, and I never want to reduce them to one familiar idea of Indian food. At the same time, I'm cooking here in London, using exceptional British produce alongside Indian flavours and techniques. The result should feel contemporary without losing its sense of place. 

HB: Luxury dining today is increasingly about emotion and experience, not just the plate. What kind of feeling do you hope guests carry with them after dining at Romy Gill at The Pem?

RG: I hope people leave feeling they've experienced something thoughtful, generous and genuinely memorable. Of course, the food matters, but what stays with you is how a restaurant makes you feel.

I want Romy Gill at The Pem to be elegant without feeling formal, refined without losing its warmth. I want guests to discover new flavours, revisit familiar ones in unexpected ways, and feel completely looked after throughout the experience.

Most of all, I hope they leave with a connection to the food, people and the stories behind each dish, already thinking about when they'll come back.

HB: You’ve described wanting guests to stay longer, order another dish, and leave already planning their return. What makes a dining experience truly memorable for you?

RG: The best restaurants make everything feel effortless, even though you know there's an enormous amount of care behind every detail. It's never just one great dish; it's the welcome, the atmosphere, the pace of the meal, and the conversations it creates.

I love restaurants that make you want to linger a little longer, order one more dish and enjoy one more glass before you leave. That's the feeling I want to create at Romy Gill at The Pem.

A memorable meal doesn't just satisfy your appetite; it stays with you long afterwards. 

HB: You’re returning to a permanent restaurant kitchen after six years. What has this chapter taught you about yourself and your craft?

RG: Stepping away from a permanent kitchen never meant stepping away from cooking. If anything, the last six years have expanded my perspective. I've travelled extensively, written books, cooked in different countries and met incredible producers and chefs along the way.

It's given me the time to reflect on what really matters to me - the flavours I return to instinctively, the dishes I most want to share and the kind of restaurant I want to build.

Coming back now feels completely intentional. I feel more grounded, confident, more focused and excited to bring everything I've learnt into one kitchen.

HB: What is your comfort food? Do you believe that there is creative room for interpretation within it, or would you like it to remain as is? 

RG: My comfort food is wonderfully simple: dal, roti, rice, sabzi, and achar. It's the food I grew up eating, and it reminds me that the most satisfying meals don't need to be complicated, just honest, nourishing, and familiar.

I also have a real affection for cheese on toast because it reminds me of the very beginning of my career in hospitality. It's humble, nostalgic, and comforting in a completely different way.

There's always room for interpretation, but only if you preserve the essence of what makes a dish comforting. You can refine it, lighten it, or present it differently, but it should still feel instantly familiar. 

HB: As someone who has created a path on her own terms, what advice would you give to the next generation of women building their careers?

RG: Trust your instincts, ignore the doubts, and don't be afraid to take a different path. Everyone looks for approval at some point, but lasting success comes from believing in your own ability and continuing to learn.

Work hard, master your craft and stay curious. Surround yourself with good people who challenge and support you, because great careers are never built entirely alone.

Most importantly, don't make yourself smaller to fit someone else's expectations. Be kind, be generous, be resilient and don't wait for every opportunity to be handed to you. Sometimes you'll have to open your own doors, and when you do, make sure you hold them open for others too. 

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